Carpet/Upholstery Cleaning - Let's learn the most effective way.

great2c4me

great2c4me

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any experienced professionals, what do you think of Wolfgang Carpet & Upholstery Restorer? Pretty expensive. it must be the guarding qualities it leaves behind. what about DP Carpet & Upholstery?
Please, read on.
degreaser for carpets and upholstery - usually and in most cases, being a higher ph, diluted at 10:1 or more for proper extraction, is never neutralized with just a rinse. It always leaves that filmy residue that attracts filth.
I have just ran out of my acidic fiber rinse neutralizer and debating whether I should invest in a new method/chemical with my mytee spider, heat extractor. Now, I see about 85%-90% correction in most cases. The method that I use - vacuum, lite pretreat and let stand 2-3 minutes - litely treat section again and agitate, then without saturating the carpets, immediately heat extract with my 128:1 acidic fiber rinse. spot and agitate for harder stains.
my Question for any experienced professional - is there a better way, that does not leave any +pH like-residue to attract dirt & filth?
this should be a good one, if anyone knows what they're doing in the detail industry. I'd like to be perfect, and this is the closest I've come. Join in! thanks!
 
Oh, check this out too guys - I was speaking to a EcoLab tech and he told me about Airkem Perfusion C&U cleaner, with oxygen bleach - a lot of dealerships use it continually... I'd like to see if anyone has used any oxygen bleach mixtures, what do you think?
 
Thanks mate. I should apply this for my own carpet in my Sportage and Chevrolet. I will test if this is really effective on your own tutorial.

Cheers!
 
I use Wolgang Spot Remover with nice results in past ... I often use Folex for most carpets now. I hate carpet and mat cleaning, and would think from a professional standpoint an extractor (heated) would likely be the choice.
 
Okay, I'm bringing this one back to life.

I would like to know if there is a video showing a person how to clean cloth seats in a vehicle. I know my steamer will not clean cloth seats. The Tornador cleaning gun will. I'm spraying Megs APC+ to clean the seats. After you do that, should one use an extractor to finish the cleaning of the seats or ........ ?

Down here, there are several ranch trucks, well, many trucks in general that the owners never take care of. Earlier today, I went to my friends body shop and took one of his employees vehicles to my place. I did most of the interior seats on the driver side. I just did not clean the back of the drivers seat. The color of this trucks interior is tan.

How do YOU detail your clients cloth interior?
 
Vacuum... Folex... and my LGM with hot water.... then back to the shop vac to pull all h20 possible back out... Set up the fan to dry... Be sure to leave the windows cracked :)

Now I just foudn info on Autopia that correlate what cleaners to use on what stains and when I get time I will try to repost its from a guy named grudge... uses Biokleen and prochem stuff

I cant wait to order the chemicals and try it out
 
Ok this is another question but for all who have posted and used an extractor.... is it really all that its cracked up to be? and is it better? and faster? than the shop vac and a brush.... I appretiate the help. Im looking into getting one for my detail business but I want to be sure before I drop that much coin
Peace
Jon
 
JonnyBob said:
Ok this is another question but for all who have posted and used an extractor.... is it really all that its cracked up to be? and is it better? and faster? than the shop vac and a brush.... I appretiate the help. Im looking into getting one for my detail business but I want to be sure before I drop that much coin
Peace
Jon
Click to expand...

I'm wishing to sell the Aztec Extractor that I have. I have a few other toys that work very well on my interior detailing. I can't ever get the extractor to work, IMO.

My $.02
 
Heres what you need to do to get maximum results: #1, vacuum the area thoroughly #2 Pre-treat the carpet with a traffic lane cleaner, it should sit and dwell on the carpet 10 minutes. #3 Scrub the carpet with a scrub brush while the traffic lane cleaner is doing its job. #4 Extract with hot water if you can, but you can still get good results with cold. #5 2 dry passes minimum.#6 Get it dry as fast as possible. Use fans or whatever. The longer carpet stays wet the more apt you are to have problems. I would not run detergent thru the solution tank, just pre-treat with a high quality traffic lane cleaner and rinse with water only. Look at products like ProChem Ultrapac or ProChem Powerburst for your traffice lane cleaner, both very good. I owned a carpet cleaning biz for many years, thats how I would attack carpet.
 
Last edited:
SRHTX said:
I'm wishing to sell the Aztec Extractor that I have. I have a few other toys that work very well on my interior detailing. I can't ever get the extractor to work, IMO.

My $.02
Click to expand...

Whats wrong with the extractor? What do you find works better?
 
wagonproject said:
Whats wrong with the extractor? What do you find works better?
Click to expand...
:iagree:What could you be doing that you are not getting good results with the Aztec?
I have had mine for 3 years and Love it. I never use any chemicals in it. Just hot water!
 
wagonproject said:
Whats wrong with the extractor? What do you find works better?
Click to expand...

Have have sprayed so many different things on carpet and floor-mats and the extractor does not assist in removing the rest of the mess. What I now use is a very good steamer AND/OR the Tornador Car Cleaning Gun. Those are now the only two items I use to clean the interior. I also use the Meg's APC+ for cleaning.

I'm sure I will be selling the extractor down the road. It will just site in the garage doing nada. LOL
 
great2c4me said:
any experienced professionals, what do you think of Wolfgang Carpet & Upholstery Restorer? Pretty expensive. it must be the guarding qualities it leaves behind. what about DP Carpet & Upholstery?
Please, read on.
degreaser for carpets and upholstery - usually and in most cases, being a higher ph, diluted at 10:1 or more for proper extraction, is never neutralized with just a rinse. It always leaves that filmy residue that attracts filth.
I have just ran out of my acidic fiber rinse neutralizer and debating whether I should invest in a new method/chemical with my mytee spider, heat extractor. Now, I see about 85%-90% correction in most cases. The method that I use - vacuum, lite pretreat and let stand 2-3 minutes - litely treat section again and agitate, then without saturating the carpets, immediately heat extract with my 128:1 acidic fiber rinse. spot and agitate for harder stains.
my Question for any experienced professional - is there a better way, that does not leave any +pH like-residue to attract dirt & filth?
this should be a good one, if anyone knows what they're doing in the detail industry. I'd like to be perfect, and this is the closest I've come. Join in! thanks!
Click to expand...

Hey man I actually started a carpet and upholstery thread myself.. Its called "Carpet and Mat Cleaning the professional way" - good, no-residue way of cleaning
 
after extracting I go over the carpet with a clean, very damp microfiber and brush the carpet grain in one direction.

I wouln't give up my extractor for a shop vac, but I do own both. An extractor used properly will always give great results.

some mats aren't worth saving...give it your best than rec new ones
 
SRHTX said:
Have have sprayed so many different things on carpet and floor-mats and the extractor does not assist in removing the rest of the mess. What I now use is a very good steamer AND/OR the Tornador Car Cleaning Gun. Those are now the only two items I use to clean the interior. I also use the Meg's APC+ for cleaning.

I'm sure I will be selling the extractor down the road. It will just site in the garage doing nada. LOL
Click to expand...


how do you rinse the cleaner from the carpet/upholstery being cleaned?
 
I'm shocked I haven't seen anyone post this way. While at the car wash there are floor mat holders. Pop those bad boys in there, hold the pressure sprayer 3 inches away from the mat while on soap mode, going left to right from top to bottom watch the amount of dirt that comes out along with the stains. After you go over the mats and notice no more dirt is coming out, turn it to rinse, rinse the mats about 5 inches away, once you have out all the soap, get about 6 inches away and go up and down motion to get rid of the left to right marks you will leave in the fibers. As far as interior cloth seats, hot water extractor rocks if you use proper technique, although steam is less drying time and kills bacteria/smells :) also if your using a hot water extractor, on the edges of the seats use your hand to guard the sprayer from spraying all over the car.
 
I posted an interior detail on show/shine awhile ago. It was on a PT Cruiser. I always wanted a hot water extractor.... but money is tight I have a family, kids, and im only 24 with only a decent job. so again money is for other things most of the time rather then 700+ for one. With the PT Cruiser detail. I used a shop vac, and a LGM and megs APC+ I put some on straight while the rest of the car was 50/50 or less. The nice thing about doing this was if I got APC+ on anything interior it is also meant to be used as an interior cleaner and conditioner, so it works out well and by the gallon saves me tons of money and i can premix to my likings. I want to also get a OTC reg. steamer so I can battle smells. But I used a spray bottle. sprayed the area worked with a brush hit it with LGM a few times that had APC+ in it with warm tap water and then hit it again with the shop vac, all windows open and it works great. just my .2cents
 
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