CarPro DLUX recoating question

Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, in theory it's a great idea, the problem is in my case, the wiper cowling has about 20 fins on with about 1/4" between them. It was hard enough to coat between them and down into the corners, would be harder to try to polish in there...not to mention the "grille" area most cowlings have in them. Now that I think about it, I did try a small (easy) spot with Hyper Polish and it didn't really help...of course that was rubbing a small area by hand, I'm not sure what Yvan did.
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That's very true. I didn't think about those intricate areas as that definitely poses a problem.

Ughh...I guess maybe just a good idea to stay away from those types of coating. I dislike headaches. I'd rather apply something every month than deal with that. Sorry for your headaches with the product.

Edit: I believe Yvan machined polished the piece with one their waffle pads and the zen tool.

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Mike lambert said:
I've been using Gyeon for over 2 years, never had 1 issue with it.
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Any tips for application?

Best type of applicator to use? How long to wait before wiping off any excess product?

I got a bottle and was planning on doing all the cladding on my Avalanche after winter but now GSKRs posts have got me a little nervous!


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I just had a problem applying it in confined area oppose to dlux or c4.very tacky and gluey if there's such a word.on thirsty panels or trim you will use a lot.Had to order a new cowl for my car,I could not look at that everyday.Do as you wish but I would recommend dlux.
 
I'm big fan of coating on paint, but will not ever use it again on a car dash. When the coating on dash fails or gets old, there's no way to simply polishes it off. You have to be gentle with many dashes because the fine texture gets damage if you rub or wipe too hard. It is a royal PITA to remove coating from the dash. I've tried everything—steam, APC—nothing works, it leaves streaks that will appear milky if you try to apply another product on top.

This is my experience with coatings on dashes at or beyond the 1-2 year mark.
 
Use the applicator that comes with the kit. You only need to put 1 line down the cloth. If it feels sticky you're using to much. Wipe off excess as soon as you see it. If it looks uneven just go back over with a couple of drops on a fresh cloth
 
Rsurfer said:
Avi, is there any chemical that will remove Dlux short of an acid? I've tried every solvent that I can think of too no avail. Tried Magic Eraser and that helped, but still splotchy. Ultimate Compound did the best job, but a lot of work.
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Strong APC with Magioc sponge will work well, APC with 12 pH , like Megs in low dilution , or even our Inside spray cleaner, with agitating the magic sponge on the plastic. solvents and alcohols will not remove it.
 
SonOfOC said:
I'm big fan of coating on paint, but will not ever use it again on a car dash. When the coating on dash fails or gets old, there's no way to simply polishes it off. You have to be gentle with many dashes because the fine texture gets damage if you rub or wipe too hard. It is a royal PITA to remove coating from the dash. I've tried everything—steam, APC—nothing works, it leaves streaks that will appear milky if you try to apply another product on top.

This is my experience with coatings on dashes at or beyond the 1-2 year mark.
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Are you talking about Dlux? If so, I don't think it was made to use as a dash or interior protectant for that matter. Maybe Avi can confirm whether Dlux can be used on the dash.
 
Rsurfer said:
I agree, 6-12 months later a re-coat looks uneven. Have you tried using Solution Finish and topping with Dlux? Works for me.
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Yeah, that seems to be the fix for DLUx that has been on exterior trim and oxidized after a year or so...

But, IMHO, it would be bad to use this product on any trim that isn't badly faded - because after it's been on there for a year +, whatever is left from DLux seems to not want to come off plastics.

IME APC won't do it - regardless of how high the pH is.

A Magic Eraser may work - but you are just abrading (finely sanding) the surface with a Magic Eraser. I wouldn't Magic Eraser any trim to remove what is supposed to be a "protectant" - since we all know Magic Erasers can remove paint and scratch plastics - especially satin finish black plastics.

This is why I now stay away from this product.

It is supposed to be a "protectant", but if you have to abrade it off the trim after a year or so - how is that protecting/preserving the trim piece?
 
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