CarPro Eraser

[PiPUK]

I'm going against the grain here, but although Eraser is ok for removing some things...if you really want a surgical surface prior to LSP, and especially coatings...the Eraser product sits on the shelf. I only use pre-coating prep products like DP prep polish, DG squeaky clean, or the pinnacle or blackfire pre coating products. Eraser does leave a residue. IPA can dull paint and its working backwards in my opinion.

I agree with you entirely about the residue - it is something you can see but also something which you would expect from a technical perspective (looking at the ingredients).

I would perhaps disagree with you about the alternatives noted being better, I would suggest that they are different, rather than better. If I am not mistaken, most of these are 'polish' type products. Such products inevitably contain non-volatile ingredients - it is not just a case of mixing oil and water - they need something to hold the formulation together. In practice, they are going to have emulsifiers which is not a million miles from what is in Eraser and which will be central to the residues it can leave. In other words, the polish type products will invariable leave a little bit of something behind, you are relying that you buff it to death to get rid. If I was wanting to give a really thorough technical answer, the process would have the polish type products you noted but I would follow it with a panel wipe which is 100% volatile (these days I feel that IPA is a bad solution, in isolation).

 

[VP Mark]

I'm going against the grain here, but although Eraser is ok for removing some things...if you really want a surgical surface prior to LSP, and especially coatings...the Eraser product sits on the shelf. I only use pre-coating prep products like DP prep polish, DG squeaky clean, or the pinnacle or blackfire pre coating products. Eraser does leave a residue. IPA can dull paint and its working backwards in my opinion.

I've heard people say for a long time that eraser leaves a residue. Never seen a single shred of proof, evidence, or even a good argument for the fact. I have used eraser to prep for probably over 100 coatings of different type and variation and have never noticed a single bit of residue or had the eraser compromise or harm the durability of the coating.

Until somebody proves otherwise, eraser leaving a residue is a myth.

Heard that IPA dulls the paint too, that is a myth as well. Removing left over polish could make the paint seem less shiny in theory I suppose, but don't really understand how it would be possible for it to actually 'dull' paint.

 

[Audios S6]

I've heard people say for a long time that eraser leaves a residue. Never seen a single shred of proof, evidence, or even a good argument for the fact. I have used eraser to prep for probably over 100 coatings of different type and variation and have never noticed a single bit of residue or had the eraser compromise or harm the durability of the coating.

Until somebody proves otherwise, eraser leaving a residue is a myth.

Well Corey's site and AG both say something like:

Eraser also has anti-static components to resist dusting after wiping. The paint will stay dust-free while you’re in the process of applying Cquartz so you don’t have to keep re-cleaning panel by panel.

Based on the copy of 2 of the US's bigger car pro distributors it is leaving an anti-static surface behind, which sounds suspiciously like a residue; although it could be a component that modifies the charge of the paint temporarily and wipes away. Whether or not that has any effect on coating bonding or durability is strictly conjecture on both sides.

 

[VP Mark]

What would you consider a 'pro-static surface'? My first uses of coatings before buying eraser I used my own mixture of glass cleaner, ONR, and IPA. Worked a great, just like eraser more. Not sure how any mixture containing alcohols to any decent concentration can leave a marked residue behind that could impact chemical adhesion.

 

[Audios S6]

What would you consider a 'pro-static surface'? My first uses of coatings before buying eraser I used my own mixture of glass cleaner, ONR, and IPA. Worked a great, just like eraser more. Not sure how any mixture containing alcohols to any decent concentration can leave a marked residue behind that could impact chemical adhesion.

Pro static to me is a surface that attracts dirt and would be positively charged since dust and dirt is generally negatively charged. Just running a towel over the surface will generate a positive charge.

Ingredients in an alcohol solution may be attracted to the paint surface just as dirt is attracted to a detergent. Only car pro could tell us how eraser's anti-static mechanism operates, I don't see them doing that anytime soon.

 

[SonOfOC]

The older formula of Eraser left blue stuff behind. After a Eraser wipe down, a damp white microfiber wipe would turn the towel blue. The new formula does not do this. There are many stronger alternatives to Eraser, but I haven't found the need for it when it comes to coatings. I have used Eraser for 5 different coating brands with zero issues. Just wished the gallon would sell for $49 or less.

 

[aim4squirrels]

I agree with you entirely about the residue - it is something you can see but also something which you would expect from a technical perspective (looking at the ingredients).

I would perhaps disagree with you about the alternatives noted being better, I would suggest that they are different, rather than better. If I am not mistaken, most of these are 'polish' type products. Such products inevitably contain non-volatile ingredients - it is not just a case of mixing oil and water - they need something to hold the formulation together. In practice, they are going to have emulsifiers which is not a million miles from what is in Eraser and which will be central to the residues it can leave. In other words, the polish type products will invariable leave a little bit of something behind, you are relying that you buff it to death to get rid. If I was wanting to give a really thorough technical answer, the process would have the polish type products you noted but I would follow it with a panel wipe which is 100% volatile (these days I feel that IPA is a bad solution, in isolation).

So what might you suggest, and what is the time frame for the product to completely dissipate to leave a bare surface.

 

[FUNX650]

So what might you suggest, and what is the time frame for the product to completely dissipate to leave a bare surface.

I don't want to be accused of speaking on someone else's behalf...So: Might I suggest Meguiar's D114 as such a "panel-wipe"?

Why...you may ask?
Reason being:

I have read where the spokespersons of Meguiar's,
(ostensibly in collaboration with Meguiar's Chemists),
have avered on more than one occasion that:
"nothing is left behind"...


Bob

 

[Mask]

+1 what Bob said ^^

 

[trekkeruss]

Might I suggest Meguiar's D114 as such a "panel-wipe"?

But would it be enough to remove polishing oils?

 

[Mask]

Use 1:10

 

[PiPUK]

I've heard people say for a long time that eraser leaves a residue. Never seen a single shred of proof, evidence, or even a good argument for the fact. I have used eraser to prep for probably over 100 coatings of different type and variation and have never noticed a single bit of residue or had the eraser compromise or harm the durability of the coating.

Until somebody proves otherwise, eraser leaving a residue is a myth.

Check the MSDS - there is a whole load of a surfactant in there, the same thing which you find in your hair shampoo/your car shampoo/your dishwash liquid. It is a non-volatile ingredient so, from a technical perspective, it WILL leave a residue. So, to counter your words, there would need to be a very good mechanism that stopped it from leaving a residue (I cannot think of a guaranteed method of ensuring that none of this was left behind). For my own testing, I know that use of excess product on a well protected vehicle could leave marks. If a product leaves no residues, the use of excess will not leave marks.

Further, the antistatic claims are another consideration. Antistatics work by leaving a film which can help decrease charging of the surface. So there has to be something left behind. This is not something noted in the safety data sheet.

So what might you suggest, and what is the time frame for the product to completely dissipate to leave a bare surface.

You want a polish with nothing added in there - no silicones, no polymers and no waxes. What products genuinely stack up to that, I cannot honestly say (at least not ones which will be available to you). Once you have one of those, it is a fairly quick job. Get your DA going and it would probably take about 30 mins for a mid sized vehicle.