Ceramic coating a new car with the usual dealer installed swirl marks

It looks like I have all the items mentioned in my post above for this 'little project'. Some are here, some are on their way, and some I almost wish I had not ordered (Rupes swirl finder light) lol.

It will be at least a two day event with some bottles of vino to make the time pass a little easier. As I said I want to do this right, and do it only once.

Thanks for all the advice and as I mentioned before, if you guys can think of anything else I should or should not be doing please let me know.
 
I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing with my Viper. Almost done with the compounding process and then will start the finishing polish while waiting for my Uber ceramic to arrive.

Rick

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Ready to get started on this little project and have a couple questions.

Picture 1 (hard to see) but shows the swirls that need to be removed.

1. Since the polisher will not fit, I guess the only way to polish the area in the air tunnel in pic # 2 is by hand?

2. Same thing with the brake cooling area in picture #3. The white specs you see in the picture is whatever compound the detailing dept at the dealer used. What is the easiest way to take that off without scrubbing it off?

Thank You
 
First off, congrats on the new car. What did you get? Sorry if it's already been posted earlier.
Secondly, welcome to AGO!

Before diving in, you may want to watch a few videos:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...wash-gentle-approach-aggressive-approach.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...o-ever-how-machine-buff-car-start-finish.html

Me personally would follow what others have suggested:
1.) Wash & Chemical decon (clean wheels, tires and wells first....)
2.) Inspect the paint (use the baggie trick), then observe under light LED flash light or Flex Light
3.) Mechanical Decon (clay or Clay Mitt) - use plenty of lube
4.) Preparation: Mask any trim, cover windshield with large beach towel, cover wheels (since they're already clean). Mask off any badges or decals you don't want want the polisher to grab.
5.) Mask off for several test spots, use the least aggressive method in your first test spot.

Why do a test spot? If you complete the entire car and are not happy with the results, you have to do the entire car again. Test spots allow you to dial in correction to a level where you feel is acceptable before continuing on with the rest of the car.

Why two test spots? Different products and pads will yield different results.

6.) After compound / polish follow the instructions of the last step product. You may have to do some kind of wipe-down (i.e. Car Pro Erasure) or use a non-abrasive polish to remove the polishing oils. Final wipe-down

7.) LSP - Coating.

8.) Finishing touches.. chrome, glass, cracks crevasses... and don't forget to clean inside the fuel door! :)


For areas that are hard to reach, you can try doing it by hand with a foam applicator, but I have to admit, the results will vary. Nothing removes defects like good product on quality pads with a machine. For tight areas, save up and get yourself a Rupes iBird Nano or Flex PE 8. Perhaps skip the tight areas for now and save that for next years "touch-up" when you get the proper tool.

For the areas where the dealer left you gobs of wax build up, you can try various things, but I would recommend:
McKee's 37 Wax Remover for Plastic removes dried on wax from plastic rubber vinyl trim

Or, some good No Rinse Wash Solution in a higher concentrate.

Good luck with the new vehicle! Remember to drive it, enjoy it, get it dirty! Detailing it is the fun part :)
 
pearlbeauty said:
Thank you for all the replies. I sure have a lot of info to work with. As I mentioned I have the Rupes 15. I also have the UHS polish along with the UHS pad. Would this combo be too aggressive to start? I do have a bottle of WG paint prep and Iron X car wash.
Would the WG advanced swirl remover be a better choice?
The car is a rosso mars (metallic red) huracan.
Click to expand...

These are GREAT products! The Rupes System is a complete system and works as one. If you purchased it from AGO, I'm sure you got Mike Phillips Rupes Bigfoot book he wrote.
http://www.autogeek.net/rupes-system-book.html

The best way to start is as stated above, a test spot. I would mask off two spots, about the size of a 16"x16" MF towel each

Spot One separated by about three or four inches, then mask off spot two. The separation or (DMZ) will be the area not polished. It's good to have a starting reference point.

Spot one - use a Polish Pad and the WG Swirl Remover - observe your results
Spot two - Use the UHS on the appropriate UHS Rupes Pad - observe the results

Compare Spot 1 to Spot 2 using the DMZ as a reference. Whatever one you like best, is what the rest of the car will be completed with.

We say use the least aggressive because you want to leave as much paint as possible... But if the least isn't getting the results, go with the next.

You're going to love the UHS!
 
Hey guys,
Just thought I would give an update. Upon inspecting the vehicle's paint enough defects were found to warrant a replacement vehicle. According to the reps, these cars are done by hand and this one somehow got by quality control.
After looking at a couple of other red cars I got the feeling that there maybe an issue with the red metalic paint. So I sort of settled for a color which is not exactly my favorite: pearl yellow in a convertible.
As it turns out the fit and finish on this car is outstanding. There were a few minor issues which I have already taken care of.
So far it has been washed and clayed. I thought I could skip the polishing process but I was wrong. So I used the advanced finishing polish. There in only one spot on the black paint trim that the UHS should take care of.
Anyway as it stands it has been Wolfgang paint prepped and is ready for WG ceramic coating. Only issue I have is lint. Cannot really see it on the yellow but it's apparent on the glass and very apparent on the black trim. No matter which type of MF towel I use, lint is being left behind. These towels have been washed at least twice. I even tried the edgeless mf towels.
I welcome your input.
Thanking you in advance
 
Perhaps the Griot's PFM towel line will do ok. You can also use the car pro suede towels


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All done. I will post some pictures as soon as the weather clears up and the sun decides to shine again. Detailing the car on a lift is a pleasure. One can raise and lower the car to a comfortable height. I hate doing wheels and the lower front and back bumper. I usually 'dog it' with a quick wipe, but on the lift I detailed these areas 100%.

It looks like I used about 7 to 8cc of WF ceramic coating to coat all areas of the car including the wheels and windshield. Only areas I still need to coat when time permits are the side windows and the door sills. One can probably add 1 or 2cc's overall if the car were a coupe.

Sometimes it was hard to see the coating being applied, so I relied on the smoothness of the applicator and once or twice I lightly rubbed the applicator over my fingernail and sure enough the coating was there.

I checked this morning (approx. 14 hours later) and all the panels of the car are silky smooth.

All in all time well invested. :xyxthumbs:
 
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