Ceramic coatings and bird bombs

[TGates]

Curious how you all are dealing with bird bombs on ceramic coated vehicles. I've got an approximately one year old coat of Adam's Graphene (non-Advanced) on my Acura RDX. It's been maintained with regular washings, toppers, etc. It's been great EXCEPT for bird bomb etching. Yesterday, my car got obliterated by bird bombs at work. It then sat in the 95 degree afternoon sun and baked in. When I got home, I cleaned it up but everywhere there was a speck of bird stuff, it left a crater behind. The surface contaminants cleaned up easily, but there is definitely visible damage left behind in each spot. It looks like the typical water spot damage but not as widespread.

Frustrated, I did some testing with the iBrid Nano, a 2" Rupes blue foam pad and 3D One. It diminished the damage but it is definitely still visible. The next step would obviously be to go more aggressive on the pad/compound combination. Unfortunately, this was not one or two big spots. It was splattered in probably 30 different spots and each spot left damage. I'm assuming this is through the coating into the clear coat. That's making cleaning this up more difficult, presumably, as I'm having to cut through the coating into the clear. That also means I'm having to chase each spot with a finer polish and then of course top off the coating. What a pain in the you know what.

Before I was using a coating, I never had these issues with bird bombs. Of course, they would cause some damage, but I feel they were easier to fix. An argument could be made that this is still saving my clear coat from initial damage, but when I have to compound the coating off to remove the craters, that benefit is negated as I'm then definitely going down into the clear.

By the time I would go around the car and fix every spot, I'd be looking at having to re-coat the whole thing. The other option is to remove the coating from the whole car and switch to a durable sealant and keep it topped off with ceramic booster type products. I don't love either option because they both involve a lot of work with a machine and compound. Most of the car does not need machine polishing, but I can't leave it like this.

What would you do if you were in my shoes? Is there a specific product or something else I could try on the craters before having to two step the whole car? I'm making the assumption a two step would be necessary even on areas that are not affected in order to effectively remove the coating if that's the route I went.

 

[Sizzle Chest]

Unfortunately, coatings are not bulletproof. I’d say you were fortunate to have had the vehicle coated before this attack took place!

I’d most likely correct and re-coat the affected areas.

 

[vobro]

I had the Adams original graphene coating and it was the absolute worst for spotting of every type,I sent them an email and was advised to use their Revive Hand Polish. I’m not saying it’s the coating per se as bird bombs and heat plus time really can do some damage but I ended up polishing the Adams of the hood and roof and tried Meguiars coating and never had a problem since.

I believe Adams knows about these issues hence the “advanced” version came out pretty quickly, I like a lot of Adams products but the coating really left a bad taste in my mouth. I’ve been coating my cars for over 12 years and never had these spotting issues before. I also found the etching to be very difficult to remove but it’s done

 

[TGates]

I had the Adams original graphene coating and it was the absolute worst for spotting of every type,I sent them an email and was advised to use their Revive Hand Polish. I’m not saying it’s the coating per se as bird bombs and heat plus time really can do some damage but I ended up polishing the Adams of the hood and roof and tried Meguiars coating and never had a problem since.

I believe Adams knows about these issues hence the “advanced” version came out pretty quickly, I like a lot of Adams products but the coating really left a bad taste in my mouth. I’ve been coating my cars for over 12 years and never had these spotting issues before. I also found the etching to be very difficult to remove but it’s done

I agree with your assessment of the coating. It was a bear to remove and has not been very forgiving in terms of spotting/etching. Last night I went over it with some Griot's Ceramic All-in-One and it reduced the spots but definitely did not remove them. It did clean the coating up and remove some fine scratches I had accumulated in the coating. I will ty the Revive Hand Polish but I have to assume it would be less aggressive than what I've already tried with the machine. Thanks for the input.

I wonder if a layer of the Graphene Advanced Spray on top of the standard graphene coating would be beneficial in any way?

 

[vobro]

I agree with your assessment of the coating. It was a bear to remove and has not been very forgiving in terms of spotting/etching. Last night I went over it with some Griot's Ceramic All-in-One and it reduced the spots but definitely did not remove them. It did clean the coating up and remove some fine scratches I had accumulated in the coating. I will ty the Revive Hand Polish but I have to assume it would be less aggressive than what I've already tried with the machine. Thanks for the input.

I wonder if a layer of the Graphene Advanced Spray on top of the standard graphene coating would be beneficial in any way?

I didn’t try the advanced version after the disappointing experience I had with the original and I agree on the Revive although it is more of a chemical cleaner but I had to use Menzerna FG 400 to clear up my hood and roof

 

[Anthony Orosco]

Bird bombs are nasty and damaging if left alone too long. When I detailed back in California many moons ago now I can remember all of my coast customers get hit by the damn seagulls and it would etch the clear in 15 to 20 minutes. Not sure what those nasty critters ate but it was horrible! Bird poo is very acidic cause they poop and pee all in one bomb so it must be cleaned up properly right away.

Carry some quick detailer with you and soft towels, wet the towel, place it on the bird bomb and LIFT the crap up, don't rub it off as birds eat grit and then crap it out. Discard your towel and some people will use a baking soda rinse to neutralize the crap I have been told but that's just a lot of trouble to me.

As I always tell my clients, paint coatings are not bullet proof as their main job is to make cleaning and maintenance easier. That's it really.

 

[The Guz]

I believe Adams knows about these issues hence the “advanced” version came out pretty quickly, I like a lot of Adams products but the coating really left a bad taste in my mouth. I’ve been coating my cars for over 12 years and never had these spotting issues before. I also found the etching to be very difficult to remove but it’s done

We all like a good conspiracy but that is just here say. It is the same product with more active ingredient to increase the durability. It is close to their pro level coating that is available to the consumer. A little more difficult to apply.

There is a misconception that Graphene does not spot. They are just less prone and they still spot.

I agree with your assessment of the coating. It was a bear to remove and has not been very forgiving in terms of spotting/etching. Last night I went over it with some Griot's Ceramic All-in-One and it reduced the spots but definitely did not remove them. It did clean the coating up and remove some fine scratches I had accumulated in the coating. I will ty the Revive Hand Polish but I have to assume it would be less aggressive than what I've already tried with the machine. Thanks for the input.

I wonder if a layer of the Graphene Advanced Spray on top of the standard graphene coating would be beneficial in any way?

A polisher is the way to go with a more abrasive polish and a pad. I have had zero issues removing either Graphene coating with a polish.

Also that AIO more than likely removed the coating of not degraded it. There is no way to distinguish if the defects are in the coating or paint. In general if the defects are being removed then so is the coating.

A coating is not bulletproof as stated. If bird droppings can etch clear coat then they can easily etch a coating.

 

[vobro]

Thanks for educating me Guz, this is the 12th coating my personal cars plus others. The coating got demolished in less then 2 months with less than 500 miles on it because I was going thru chemo. I didn’t even bother me as I know stuff happens from time to time but Adams answer was to use Revive which I knew wasn’t going to cut it so with other things more important going on at the time I just started fresh.

 

[TGates]

Also that AIO more than likely removed the coating of not degraded it. There is no way to distinguish if the defects are in the coating or paint. In general if the defects are being removed then so is the coating.

A coating is not bulletproof as stated. If bird droppings can etch clear coat then they can easily etch a coating.

That's what I'm hoping.

 

[TGates]

Bird bombs are nasty and damaging if left alone too long. When I detailed back in California many moons ago now I can remember all of my coast customers get hit by the damn seagulls and it would etch the clear in 15 to 20 minutes. Not sure what those nasty critters ate but it was horrible! Bird poo is very acidic cause they poop and pee all in one bomb so it must be cleaned up properly right away.

Carry some quick detailer with you and soft towels, wet the towel, place it on the bird bomb and LIFT the crap up, don't rub it off as birds eat grit and then crap it out. Discard your towel and some people will use a baking soda rinse to neutralize the crap I have been told but that's just a lot of trouble to me.

As I always tell my clients, paint coatings are not bullet proof as their main job is to make cleaning and maintenance easier. That's it really.

Unless I can somehow to convince my boss to let me check on my car in the parking lot every 10 minutes, I'm not sure having a bottle of detail spray and a microfiber towel would have helped much in this case.

 

[noorth]

Unless I can somehow to convince my boss to let me check on my car in the parking lot every 10 minutes, I'm not sure having a bottle of detail spray and a microfiber towel would have helped much in this case.

Did you try bringing a bird of prey around with you? Falcons are pretty neat. Those sea gulls would disappear.

 

[Markymapo1]

Throw one of those cheap clear plastic car covers on it (Griots sells them) while you work. I use these when I am on vacation and the cars are left at home for a week. Not enough garage space. Good luck

 

[TGates]

Did you try bringing a bird of prey around with you? Falcons are pretty neat. Those sea gulls would disappear.

Pigeons, but your point stands. Maybe an owl on a suction cup stuck to the glass up top would work.

We also have turkey vultures that circle high above.

 

[snovvman]

It's been great EXCEPT for bird bomb etching. Yesterday, my car got obliterated by bird bombs at work. It then sat in the 95 degree afternoon sun and baked in. When I got home, I cleaned it up but everywhere there was a speck of bird stuff, it left a crater behind. The surface contaminants cleaned up easily, but there is definitely visible damage left behind in each spot.

@TGates--

I came upon your post from researching my own experience. Here is the thread:

Request: Advice on removing road acquired spots off of ceramic/PPF

For me, there is no crater and the coating on top of the PPF is very smooth after the visible stuff was removed. However, they persist when examined under UV. I am still trying different possible ways of dealing with it, knowing that polishing is always an option.

 

[The Guz]

All that rubbing will eventually remove the coating or marr up the surface. Depending on how hard your pushing and the quality of the towel.

A quick zip with a polish and re-coating would have taken care of this rather tan trying to find a chemical to remove it.

 

[snovvman]

All that rubbing will eventually remove the coating or marr up the surface. Depending on how hard your pushing and the quality of the towel.

A quick zip with a polish and re-coating would have taken care of this rather tan trying to find a chemical to remove it.

Ok that makes sense--to do the least harm. I thought that chemical would be better because there is less rubbing involved than mechanical--whereas I saw polishing as "scratching it off", the chemical would be "dissolving it off".

Is there a polish you would recommend, keeping in mind that 1) the contaminant is very thin, not even visible to the eye, 2) it's on top of PPF, and 3) the plan is to re-apply the coating. Thanks.

Edit:

I have the following laying around, in case they fit the bill
Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish
Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish

 

[The Guz]

M205 will work. It should come off with a pass or two.

 

[DUBL0WS6]

I had my car repainted a couple years back. A bird dropped a nasty looking bomb on the spoiler that etched the paint. There are some bombs that will probably eat through a wax or coating.

 

[Desertnate]

I had my car repainted a couple years back. A bird dropped a nasty looking bomb on the spoiler that etched the paint. There are some bombs that will probably eat through a wax or coating.

That's been my experience too. Some birds have something really acidic in their digestive systems and when that hits your paint it will eat it's way through just about anything in the right conditions.

Overall my experience is coatings hold up far better than any sealant I've used, but it isn't armor plating. I remove the droppings as soon as I find them and have only experienced etching on a couple occasions.