Ceramic pads

[CDot]

I've been using ceramic on my '01 Altima for a long time and they are much quieter, not sure what that Honda person was talking about. My last brake job the shop used semi-metallic--I didn't feel like changing at the time--and they are already squealing a lot after 6-8 months.

Word to the wise - a lot of Honda's require a special tool that inserts into a grooved part of the caliper (at least on the rear brakes) to depress the caliper piston because it twists as it moves in and out. If you don't have that tool, you need to get it or you risk messing up the caliper when you change pads.

For reference: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZHf85IXEIY]How To Change Out Brake Pads On Your Car. - YouTube[/video]

 

[ScottB]

Ive run EBC, Delco, Hawk, and Akebono ceramic pads over the years and never had any issue with stopping, nor sound.

 

[swanicyouth]

The reason thats cheap for me because pads and rotors on my 98 audi a6 cost almost $1000

They are probably 2 piece style rotors with aluminum rotor hats on the Audi. They may also be drilled or slotted. The ones for my BMW M are like that and they are something like $400 a rotor at the dealer. The way you can tell is if you look at the rotor hats when the rotor is old and if it's not rusty - they are likely aluminum (if silver). I believe they use this design because the rotor is lighter and aluminum probably dissipates heat better than iron/steel. But they cost $$$.

Honda brake parts are usually pretty cheap via the aftermarket. They use conventional style rotors traditionally to the best of my knowledge. No fancy 2 piece rotors. Plus, there are a ton of Hondas one the road - so there is a big aftermarket.

Here is a BMW M Rotor:

Here is a traditional Honda rotor ( see how it all looks one piece at the hub ):

Ah, the electric impact wrench, ain't the 21st century grand?

I really miss the old GM brakes with the O-rings, where the pins went through holes in the backing plate--those things never seized up the way they all do it today with the exposed ears on the backing plate just waiting to rust and get gunked up with grit and salt etc.

The worse disc brakes ever were the rear ones Ford used in the 1990s (I believe GM was similar). They looked like this:

The E-brake was not inside the rotor hat, but part of the caliper mechanism. It always seized, causing the owner to replace costly calipers, rotors, E brake cables, & pads. Then you needed a little tool to "wind" the piston back in - it was usually seized as well. Even in the 1990s - this was often a $1200 dealer brake job on a Taurus rear axle. The front rotors were composite - so they would warp. If you tried to machine them - you would get chatter marks all over the rotor and your brakes would sound like a helicopter taking off. I guess the technology wasn't as good as now.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I dunno, I've seen one brand have repeated problems with pads sticking and either not contacting the rotor, or sticking at one end and wearing in a wedge into the backing plate. But all the brands seem to use the same construction now.

I'm talking about the GM front discs (no rear discs then except 'Vettes) from the mid-70's up to I guess sometime in the 90's. Never saw them stick or wear unevenly.