Ceriglass,carpro rayon glass pad and rotary = swirled scratches

deeboy

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Yesterday I tried ceriglass,a carpro rayon pad with a rotary on the drivers window of my Silverado to remove very etched water spots. It removed a lot of the water spots but now the window is covered in swirled fine scratches. I used a lot of DI water during the process but I'm not sure what I did wrong. From what I've read the pads I used shouldn't do this.
Have I ruined my window or is there a foam pad I can use with the ceriglass to remove the scratches?
 
Unfortunately, I've heard that many are having the same problem with those pads. I wouldn't have recommended such an aggressive combo to remove waterspots. I've only over needed medium-heavy cut foam and glass polish to remove waterspots. Your going to have to spend some time using a medium or fine polish to level out the scratches but you should be able to smooth out the glass again. I would also recommend using a DA polisher instead of a rotary.
 
Unfortunately, I've heard that many are having the same problem with those pads. I wouldn't have recommended such an aggressive combo to remove waterspots. I've only over needed medium-heavy cut foam and glass polish to remove waterspots. Your going to have to spend some time using a medium or fine polish to level out the scratches but you should be able to smooth out the glass again. I would also recommend using a DA polisher instead of a rotary.

Thanks for the advice but are you saying I can use the ceriglass with a medium or fine polish pad to fix it?
 
Unfortunately, I've heard that many are having the same problem with those pads./QUOTE]

Really? This is the first post like this I've seen regarding these products.

I'd like to help the OP figure out what is going on here. First off, you have to make sure you are working on GLASS on not some type of coating on the glass. Secondly, It sounds like you are saying the combo put swirls in the glass - not that they were there and it didn't fix them.

Assuming that is the case, do you have a DA? I'm confident you can correct this glass with a DA and the CarPro Glass Pads and CerriGlass. In fact, I've only done it with a DA - never a rotary.

Foam pads will not fix glass, nor will polishes designed for paint.
 
swanicyouth - it's definitely just glass and your right the combo put the swirls in the glass

I don't have a DA polisher, l was hoping a foam pad with ceriglass could correct it (the ceriglass doing the correction).
 
Unfortunately, I've heard that many are having the same problem with those pads./QUOTE]

Really? This is the first post like this I've seen regarding these products.

I'd like to help the OP figure out what is going on here. First off, you have to make sure you are working on GLASS on not some type of coating on the glass. Secondly, It sounds like you are saying the combo put swirls in the glass - not that they were there and it didn't fix them.

Assuming that is the case, do you have a DA? I'm confident you can correct this glass with a DA and the CarPro Glass Pads and CerriGlass. In fact, I've only done it with a DA - never a rotary.

Foam pads will not fix glass, nor will polishes designed for paint.

The most recent post was a gentleman with a Hyundai who attempted to polish his windshield and ended up with scratches all over. I'll attempt to search out the thread.

As far as foam on glass and the usage of paint polishes, I've had very good results removing waterspots with them.
 
The most recent post was a gentleman with a Hyundai who attempted to polish his windshield and ended up with scratches all over. I'll attempt to search out the thread.

I searched as well but couldn't find it. The way I've done it is with a GG6 running wide open with a lot of downward force and a lot of DI water keeping the polish wet. If you don't end up with a big mess, you may not have done it right - as wet polish will fling everywhere. It has to stay wet - I can't emphasize that enough. Eventually you will dilute out the polish with water to the point it almost looks like your polishing with water. That's OK. That's when it's time to clean the glass and re-inspect.

I just can't speak on doing it with a rotary.
 
I searched as well but couldn't find it. The way I've done it is with a GG6 running wide open with a lot of downward force and a lot of DI water keeping the polish wet. If you don't end up with a big mess, you may not have done it right - as wet polish will fling everywhere. It has to stay wet - I can't emphasize that enough. Eventually you will dilute out the polish with water to the point it almost looks like your polishing with water. That's OK. That's when it's time to clean the glass and re-inspect.

I just can't speak on doing it with a rotary.

I found the thread but the OP of that thread was using LC glass pads and not the ones OP of this thread is using. My mistake! :-(

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum.../73863-scuff-marks-after-glass-polishing.html
 
My technique is similar to swanic. Ceriglass on griots glass pads on flex 3401.

Keep water spray bottle nearby and dont let glass dry. Works very well at deep etchings that steel wool and paint compounds cant get out.
 
So best option to fix it is to use a DA with the carpro rayon gpp and ceriglass ?
Does anyone think that a foam cutting pad with ceriglass with a rotary will correct it?
 
So best option to fix it is to use a DA with the carpro rayon gpp and ceriglass ?
Does anyone think that a foam cutting pad with ceriglass with a rotary will correct it?

I have corrected my windshield with Ceriglass and the LC Glass polishing pads. The Rayon / Glass Cutting pads were too hard and were scratching the glass instead. You might be able to get away with it just using a foam cutting pad but I kind of doubt it.

Here is the write up that I did.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/44029-carpro-ceriglass-really-works.html

It also includes a link for a very detailed write up from Corey - CEE DOG, the master of reviews.

If you can get the glass polishing pad, with Ceriglass and a rotary, you are in business.

Glass polishing takes a bit more time. When your Ceriglass gets a bit dry from the generated heat, spray a light mist of water and continue.

Glass polishing creates a lot of splatter as well. I would recommend to cover with a sheet the roof of the car.

Good luck. Let's us know how you did.
 
Maybe Mike can help this guy, as I'm sure he knows how do do it with a rotary.

So, *bump*
 
Thank you Theo! You are far too kind!

Thanks for the bump Stephen!


OP: You have some great advice above and Stephen and Theo help a lot with their info and referenced articles and their methods work.

I will add one difference in thought - you can actually remove any fine swirls you have created using a very stiff foam pad with Ceriglass and rotary.

Use a Yellow Buff&Shine pad preferably or a LC Hydrotech pad and use a small amount of Ceriglass.

Don't over apply water. Just spray directly on the pad as needed to stop from being dry.

Run the machine on low speed as the ceri breaks down using even movement speed, keeping pad flat, and using at or near zero pressure by the end.

Don't reapply more ceriglass to the pad until you finish a section and move to the next and clean your pad Often.

Fwiw: We've seen greater success with this system then any other on the market i am aware of. You likely didn't break the polish down at the end of the cycle or used pressure or too high speed during finishing passes. That's my best shot at pinpointing what happened.
 
Just ended up with fine scratches all over the section I tried on my rear glass. Using 7424XP, CP Rayon pads, ceriglass, and water.

I am going to try what ceedog said above with my Flex 3403 rotary at a low speed, an orange lake country foam pad, ceriglass, and water. I will report back with what happens to the scratches I just created. Pretty sure it has a lot to do with this rayon pad.
 
When using a foam pad with Ceri are you best to mark it just for ceri after that? Are you ever going to get the remains out once you have used the pad for it?
 
So, the orange LC pad wasn't doing much.

I switched it to a yellow LC pad, ceriglass, lots of water (it dries up after a single pass), and the 3403 is set to 2.

It is taking forever, but the scratches are becoming less noticeable after about 6 passes. Just out of curiosity I tried the carpro rayon pads on the 3403 on a piece of exterior glass of another car and got even worse scratches at speed 2 with tons of water. There is nothing on the rayon pads except ceriglass and water. I'm not so sure about these pads for future use... All they are doing is scratching glass for me.

Final thoughts:
Ceriglass = yes
Rayon pads = no
Medium/Light cutting foam pads = yes
Water = lots!

Edit; I should probably try the lake country glass polishing pad. I may run over and buy one after I fix the back glass.
 
Just ended up with fine scratches all over the section I tried on my rear glass. Using 7424XP, CP Rayon pads, ceriglass, and water.

I am going to try what ceedog said above with my Flex 3403 rotary at a low speed, an orange lake country foam pad, ceriglass, and water. I will report back with what happens to the scratches I just created. Pretty sure it has a lot to do with this rayon pad.

I ordered some of the CP pads because I read they wouldn't make these scratches like the LC pads did...
 
I ordered some of the CP pads because I read they wouldn't make these scratches like the LC pads did...


That's my experience. If your using a DA, I've had really good luck breaking the polish down to nothingness - almost until it's just spray water. So, at the end, I'm almost polishing with water.

I don't know if this is the "correct" method, but so far it's worked perfectly for me each time with a DA with perfectly defect free glass.
 
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