Ceriglass,carpro rayon glass pad and rotary = swirled scratches

deeboy said:
Yesterday I tried ceriglass,a carpro rayon pad with a rotary on the drivers window of my Silverado to remove very etched water spots. It removed a lot of the water spots but now the window is covered in swirled fine scratches. I used a lot of DI water during the process but I'm not sure what I did wrong. From what I've read the pads I used shouldn't do this.
Have I ruined my window or is there a foam pad I can use with the ceriglass to remove the scratches?
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I used Ceriglass and the rayon pads with a GG6 with great results. I kept the product wet, worked with slow arm movement and medium pressure on speed 4-5. I used DW as well to keep it moist. I worked it like I work the paint polish, until it is a light haze, then I wipe it off and inspect.
 
DaveT435 said:
I ordered some of the CP pads because I read they wouldn't make these scratches like the LC pads did...
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Sorry for the confusion. I have the LC cutting pads right now.. so yes, the CP branded rayon pads may not do this. I used the CP pads on a Porsche 930 in Mike's detailing boot camp with no problem on the 7424XP. No scratches there.. but with these LC pads on both my 7424XP and my L3403; major scratches.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
One thing for sure, it's a good idea to never try glass polishing the first time on the driver's side of the windshield just in case something goes wrong.



:)
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Haha.. good suggestion. I was working on a small corner of the back glass to be safe.. I got 99% of the scratches out. One of my personal cars and the one that takes the biggest beating so no major loss :)
 
element6 said:
Sorry for the confusion. I have the LC cutting pads right now.. so yes, the CP branded rayon pads may not do this. I used the CP pads on a Porsche 930 in Mike's detailing boot camp with no problem on the 7424XP. No scratches there.. but with these LC pads on both my 7424XP and my L3403; major scratches.
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Ok. Yes I read about the problem with the LC pads. I'll be trying the CP pads Monday or Tuesday. I always work the ceri-glass until it's pretty much translucent. Do I need to keep going beyond that point?
 
DaveT435 said:
Ok. Yes I read about the problem with the LC pads. I'll be trying the CP pads Monday or Tuesday. I always work the ceri-glass until it's pretty much translucent. Do I need to keep going beyond that point?
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I'd say just keep going until your scratches are either gone or minimal. When I was using the yellow foam LC pad and the ceriglass to get the scratches out from the LC rayon pad, I just kept applying water between passes, then I'd wipe clean, inspect, and add more ceriglass and repeat until the scratches were nearly impossible to see.

PS - the yellow foam pad was working wonders with my rotary (L3403) at speed 2. Wasn't doing enough work on the 7424.
 
DaveT435 said:
Ok. Yes I read about the problem with the LC pads. I'll be trying the CP pads Monday or Tuesday. I always work the ceri-glass until it's pretty much translucent. Do I need to keep going beyond that point?
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I work it pretty long, almost until it's just white water, as I'm adding water all the time.
 
element6 said:
I'd say just keep going until your scratches are either gone or minimal. When I was using the yellow foam LC pad and the ceriglass to get the scratches out from the LC rayon pad, I just kept applying water between passes, then I'd wipe clean, inspect, and add more ceriglass and repeat until the scratches were nearly impossible to see.

PS - the yellow foam pad was working wonders with my rotary (L3403) at speed 2. Wasn't doing enough work on the 7424.
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Thanks I may use the yellow pad and a rotary then.
 
swanicyouth said:
I work it pretty long, almost until it's just white water, as I'm adding water all the time.
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Thank you. I did it during the Texas summer so I know what you mean about adding water all the time.
 
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