CG V36 not cutting it

runrun411

runrun411

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This is my new (to me) DD. A 2009 Honda Accord with dark grey paint.
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The paint is in pretty good condition with some relatively minor scratches. I've been working on it during my lunch time by claying one panel each day and now I'm ready to start correction.

The paint had a lot of contamination. This is after claying just half of the hood.
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I started using CG V36 not thinking I would need to compound since it is a cutting polish. It seems as if it's not cutting enough after 5 or 6 passes with the PC using an orange CG 5" pad. The scratches are barely visible but I see them (only when you really look for them in the direct sun) and it's bothering me.

So turning to my panel of expert let me ask. Honda clearcoat, is it hard or soft? If I need to compound I'll likely use either M101 or FG 400.
 
I had the same problem with V36. Go with the FG400 like I did. You will never look back.
 
I've never had a problem with v36 if i had to compare it to another well known polish it is right there with m205 but more like in between m205 and meguiars ultimate polish.
 
V36 is not a cutting compound, so saying things like oh just use this and that because chemical guys isnt good enough blah blah blah isnt right. Learn the purpose of the product before you go on giving it a bad rep. I find V36 to be a great POLISH not a heavy defect remover. Its great on soft paints.

Seems to me like OP though V36 was enough for his car, but obviously its not. IMO id go with M101. Its better than fg400 from what i have seen. Not all Honda paint is soft...
 
V34 would have been a better choice, better cut and the same finish.
 
BlackHawk said:
V36 is not a cutting compound, so saying things like oh just use this and that because chemical guys isnt good enough blah blah blah isnt right. Learn the purpose of the product before you go on giving it a bad rep. I find V36 to be a great POLISH not a heavy defect remover. Its great on soft paints.

Seems to me like OP though V36 was enough for his car, but obviously its not. IMO id go with M101. Its better than fg400 from what i have seen. Not all Honda paint is soft...
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The OP didn't say it was a cutting compound. He said cutting polish just as the CG website says. He also didn't say there were heavy defects. Despite this, the CG site says V36 removes moderate to heavy paint defects. I don't feel the OP set his expectations too high at all. Pairing CG's product description with his light defecfts and his allegedly soft paint seems perfectly reasonable.
 
maybe go down in pad hardness, as the cutting pad might be to much for the soft paint and induces new swirls / scratches
 
I used this same product on the same year and make car and it turned out great. Paint was sparkling then just added sealant to protect
runrun411 said:
This is my new (to me) DD. A 2009 Honda Accord with dark grey paint.
1f20045b-b485-49b6-9653-2ff0c0298dff_zpsea1ecec4.jpg


The paint is in pretty good condition with some relatively minor scratches. I've been working on it during my lunch time by claying one panel each day and now I'm ready to start correction.

The paint had a lot of contamination. This is after claying just half of the hood.
d0d3864d-f093-4e94-bf60-2675f061fdcb_zpsf6a0b058.jpg


I started using CG V36 not thinking I would need to compound since it is a cutting polish. It seems as if it's not cutting enough after 5 or 6 passes with the PC using an orange CG 5" pad. The scratches are barely visible but I see them (only when you really look for them in the direct sun) and it's bothering me.

So turning to my panel of expert let me ask. Honda clearcoat, is it hard or soft? If I need to compound I'll likely use either M101 or FG 400.
Click to expand...
 
All of Honda paints are super soft. Try some UC or pf 2500 depending on what you got

Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online
 
Dogfather said:
The OP didn't say it was a cutting compound. He said cutting polish just as the CG website says. He also didn't say there were heavy defects. Despite this, the CG site says V36 removes moderate to heavy paint defects. I don't feel the OP set his expectations too high at all. Pairing CG's product description with his light defecfts and his allegedly soft paint seems perfectly reasonable.
Click to expand...

This is why you do test panels with different products and different pads or am I missing something? - as we all should know by now not all paint is the same and there are many variables like temperature, humidity, actual condition of the paint, are you polishing in direct sunlight or the shade, etc etc . - personally I'd go with V34 or M101 if I'm not getting the bite I need with V36.

But to condemn an entire company because one guy doesn't get the exact results he thinks he should get with one of many products, as some seem to be doing (not you specifically), is a bit silly. Just my .02
 
Mach1USMC said:
This is why you do test panels with different products and different pads or am I missing something? - as we all should know by now not all paint is the same and there are many variables like temperature, humidity, actual condition of the paint, are you polishing in direct sunlight or the shade, etc etc . - personally I'd go with V34 or M101 if I'm not getting the bite I need with V36.

But to condemn an entire company because one guy doesn't get the exact results he thinks he should get with one of many products, as some seem to be doing (not you specifically), is a bit silly. Just my .02
Click to expand...

I agree. I don't know why the OP went any further than a test spot, (if he indeed did) I just didn't think it was right to say he didn't have any understanding of the product he was using.

Also, the original post didn't give me the impression he was condemning an entire company. That's reading way too into it.
 
I've used v34 often and with great results but on my last car,a 2011 black Accord I didn't have much success with the v34 which surprised me being the v34 cuts very well, long work time and wipes off so easy.
So I then used m105 and UC with an orange pad and BAM, success.
I said it before and I'll say it now, Honda paints are some of the softest paints to work with.
Try Ultimate Compound on it and see for yourself how well it will work for you, use an orange hex pad.
Also make sure to work very small areas.
 
cmoneyinc said:
I had the same problem with V36. Go with the FG400 like I did. You will never look back.
Click to expand...

You're right. I first tried M101 which went okay but I thought I'd try FG400 for more bite and it seems to work well

BradsDetailing said:
Honda paint is probably the softest there is
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:iagree: I compounded my white Honda Pilot with M105 and that was all I needed. It's very soft and easy to cut.

Dogfather said:
The OP didn't say it was a cutting compound. He said cutting polish just as the CG website says. He also didn't say there were heavy defects. Despite this, the CG site says V36 removes moderate to heavy paint defects. I don't feel the OP set his expectations too high at all. Pairing CG's product description with his light defecfts and his allegedly soft paint seems perfectly reasonable.
Click to expand...

:iagree:

CG says that V36 is a cutting polish that removes light to moderate swirls and scratches and I figured it would be enough to make an easy difference. I was wrong though. I wonder if Honda uses different clear coats with different color because this clear coat seems a little hard. I've been using a PC but I think I'm going to try it out with a Flex.
 
After using the FG400 the finish looks LSP ready but I'm going to use some PF2500 to kick it up.
 
runrun411 said:
After using the FG400 the finish looks LSP ready but I'm going to use some PF2500 to kick it up.
Click to expand...

If the FG400 finish was almost LSP ready, I don't think you need to go with PF2500 since you're really not trying to correct any marring induced by the FG400. I'd move right to SF4000 or SF4500 to finish with for a high gloss shine.
 
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