clay bar a 2nd time?

Good read!

Looks like I need to add iron remover to my arsenal!

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I will just chime on when you might need to clay. You can do the baggie test and check to see if you need to clay or not. As for the other techniques I say don't use Dawn dishwashing soap. There are plenty of PH balanced car soaps that are significantly better.

KEEP ON ROCKING!
 
luckydawg said:
I have used soapy for years- just have to keep enough there--- & thats probably why you haven't been able to use soapy water
How to Clay Bar Paint to Remove Contaminants - YouTube

Read the third comment down in the video AFTER you watch it
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I use up QD’s that i buy to try out but don’t make the cut. If I was out i would reach for Mckee’s N-914 or Ech20.

Clay lube is probably the only dedicated product I have yet to purchase.

Appreciate it though. One of Larry’s vid i hadn’t seen yet.

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Mothers or Maguiars, I used both and settled on Bostik BlueTack.

Here in Australia clay is ridiculously expensive.

Back in about 2014 or so I made a nice thread here .. comparing Maguiras and Blue Tack. There was no difference in performance, both worked well, equally well (Bostik BlueTack being 10 times cheaper).

To answer the OP, if you do one clay pass just fine, no second pass is needed, at least in my opinion.
 
I'm with Desertnate...forget how it "feels" with a baggie. How does it look? Are you happy with how it looks after all that work? If so forget about it until you need to do all that again.

I do understand how people like us obsess over the particulars of every process but who will know or care if it doesn't pass the baggie test other than you?

Are you happy with how it came out otherwise?
 
1st off, I would like to thank all of you for your input! To clarify a couple of things. My reasoning for using dawn (apparently mistakenly) was to try and remove as much of any previous coatings as possible, especially since I was following with complete compound and complete polish. My understanding now....Don't do that! I will be using the panel wipe that Wolfgang sells for their ceramic product (PROFI) prep. I will probably get hammered for this but I have already cleaned the Kia with a 70/30 mix of water and isopropyl. Twice. (Will still use Wolfgangs).
I have done many many clay barrings in my day and learned long ago (even recently by Mr. Philips) to use an abundance of wash soap as lube for the clay bar as apposed to buying many dollars worth of "special" lube. Thanks for the tip on using a Mother's bar. I will be applying the ceramic coat on the Kia as is. (Not redoing it!). However by the time I get to the 1800 mile redeye, I will indeed be be the perfectionist that is in my nature. Most likely, I'm guessing, it may not need iron-x. Of course it has never been clayed yet. We will see.
Thanks again for all the input. As far as attaching a picture....I felt pretty proud of myself for just figuring out how to post and respond! Give me time.
.......Trying again. I thought I posted this yesterday. Apparently not.
 
redeye797 said:
1st off, I would like to thank all of you for your input! To clarify a couple of things. My reasoning for using dawn (apparently mistakenly) was to try and remove as much of any previous coatings as possible, especially since I was following with complete compound and complete polish. My understanding now....Don't do that! I will be using the panel wipe that Wolfgang sells for their ceramic product (PROFI) prep. I will probably get hammered for this but I have already cleaned the Kia with a 70/30 mix of water and isopropyl. Twice. (Will still use Wolfgangs).
I have done many many clay barrings in my day and learned long ago (even recently by Mr. Philips) to use an abundance of wash soap as lube for the clay bar as apposed to buying many dollars worth of "special" lube. Thanks for the tip on using a Mother's bar. I will be applying the ceramic coat on the Kia as is. (Not redoing it!). However by the time I get to the 1800 mile redeye, I will indeed be be the perfectionist that is in my nature. Most likely, I'm guessing, it may not need iron-x. Of course it has never been clayed yet. We will see.
Thanks again for all the input. As far as attaching a picture....I felt pretty proud of myself for just figuring out how to post and respond! Give me time.
.......Trying again. I thought I posted this yesterday. Apparently not.
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Brand new 10 mile cars could need Iron X. Rail dust is a killer, environment also plays a factor. Using it and not needing it would be preferable to needing it and not using it.


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Coatingsarecrack said:
I would also use an iron remover and a tar remover also if needed.

I prefer synthetic clays and you can usually find Mother’s Speed clay or Griots brilliant finish synthetic clay at your local AutoZone or Advanced.

I would also recommend the mother’s bar to get into tight spots where those synthetic ones can’t reach

Get a good QD for clay lube. As for those brands you mentioned none offer any substantial sio2 protection.

A ceramic coating will leave 25-95% solids in your paint after the carrier has evaporated. They are usually solvent based and a little more meticulous to apply.

What you are using are basically sealants with roughly 5% sio2. They have waxes and polymers that are leaving behind protection. Nothing wrong with that but just expect sealant durability and protection.

The Griot’s product is decent but if wanting to step it up a notch look to Adam’s Advanced Graphene spray coating. More durability and more like a sealant on sio2 steroids. A good real 6-8 months protection

I personally would step up one more notch and look at a coating light, in particular Gyeon CanCoat Evo. 8-15 months protection.

If you feel like putting something on that will last 1.5 to 3 years look to a true ceramic coating. They have gotten alot easier in recent years.

I over thought my 1st time but it was pretty simple.

Be carful though. This hobby has me buying $100 16oz bottles of LSP’s to top ny ceramic coating in between QD applications and looking for the best drying aids.

Literally sunk thousands into it and will drop thousands more.

Good luck on the other rigs and let see some pics of the Redeye.


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Hope I don't open a big can of worms here but here goes! Any thoughts/ comments on Wolfgang PROFI ceramic coating. Longevity, ease of application, previous users experience, etc.? I will be starting in an hr or so. Will let you all know how it went. Already purchased a pile of their products so no going back now! One more Q. Those large ( 1.5" X 3" microfiber applicators look like a great way to soak up half your tiny bottle of coating. I will be using the extra foam pad left over from my marine "glidecoat" kit. Good or bad idea? Thanks for all your help
 
I use to be one of those with the mindset that I need more of what ever I am using and those little bottles wont have enough. Trust me, the 30ML bottle is more than enough and a little does go a long way of those types of products.
 
redeye797 said:
One more Q. Those large ( 1.5" X 3" microfiber applicators look like a great way to soak up half your tiny bottle of coating
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Nope, those will be fine to use. And yes 30 ml will be enough

For future coating applications, autofiber makes the best microfiber applicators. They have a plastic liner inside of them so they dont soak up any product


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Ok. Done. Definitely not rocket science as far as application is concerned. Hardest part was being able to see when it had "flashed". My indoor lighting just would not show that rainbow effect that I had hoped to see. Nonetheless, I just waited about a minute (instructions) and polished. No runs, drips or streaks! Now I guess time will tell on how well it worked.
Can't wait to get to the redeye! Couple more to do 1st.
As far as how much product I used...I bought the 50ml bottle ($130), I might be able to get both other cars (Charger and Challenger) and my 1500 RAM. It was amazing how far that stuff will go.
Thanks again for all the input. Everybody's time is important and I appreciate you using yours to help me!
 
opie said:
Nope, those will be fine to use. And yes 30 ml will be enough

For future coating applications, autofiber makes the best microfiber applicators. They have a plastic liner inside of them so they dont soak up any product


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Ag had ones with the inside barrier similar to the AF in the Speed Master line now. Available in large and small.


Speed Master Coating Applicator 12-Pack


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redeye797 said:
Ok. Done. Definitely not rocket science as far as application is concerned. Hardest part was being able to see when it had "flashed". My indoor lighting just would not show that rainbow effect that I had hoped to see. Nonetheless, I just waited about a minute (instructions) and polished. No runs, drips or streaks! Now I guess time will tell on how well it worked.
Can't wait to get to the redeye! Couple more to do 1st.
As far as how much product I used...I bought the 50ml bottle ($130), I might be able to get both other cars (Charger and Challenger) and my 1500 RAM. It was amazing how far that stuff will go.
Thanks again for all the input. Everybody's time is important and I appreciate you using yours to help me!
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Make sure to keep sealed tight and in a cool dark place. If you have a vacuum sealer i would seal the bottle.

And yes, once open it can harden so use it up. As mentioned don’t wait too long to use up.


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Going to get started on the ram today. Now that I know that these bottles dry up quickly, I will definitely put 2 coats on the truck. The 06 charger is going to take a lot of work to get it ready (things don't go quite as fast at 62 than they did 10 or 30 yrs ago!) By the time I get to the Challenger, I will buy a new bottle. No chances. Very disappointed with the manufacturer for not disclosing that little tidbit of info. Had i of known, I would have purchased four 15ml bottles. Once again, thank you for your time and input!
 
redeye797 said:
Now that I know that these bottles dry up quickly, I will definitely put 2 coats on the truck. By the time I get to the Challenger, I will buy a new bottle. No chances. Very disappointed with the manufacturer for not disclosing that little tidbit of info. Had i of known, I would have purchased four 15ml bottles. Once again, thank you for your time and input!
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i can not speak for that brand of coating but do not think you have to use this stuff up within a couple week or something. i have bottles of 2-3 year coatings that are opened anywhere from 6 months to a year old that did not crystalize. the only part that did was the small amount of product that was on the inside of the cap.

it is not enough product for an entire vehicle so i will use it for wheels.
 
redeye797 said:
Going to get started on the ram today. Now that I know that these bottles dry up quickly, I will definitely put 2 coats on the truck. The 06 charger is going to take a lot of work to get it ready (things don't go quite as fast at 62 than they did 10 or 30 yrs ago!) By the time I get to the Challenger, I will buy a new bottle. No chances. Very disappointed with the manufacturer for not disclosing that little tidbit of info. Had i of known, I would have purchased four 15ml bottles. Once again, thank you for your time and input!
Click to expand...

After opening coatings they do NOT dry up or go bad fast. Just put the cap on and throw it in your crisper drawer in your fridge and forget about it.

I have a bottle of opened Carpro Gliss that's 3 years old in my fridge.

I also have opened Carpro Uk 3.0, SiC, Ethos Graphene, Kamikaze that I'm not even remotely worried about. Every winter I have opened coatings sit in the fridge for the winter. It's a non issue.
 
Since I received differing opinions on shelf life, I called customer support! For my particular product (wolfgang), "a couple months" is the limit. I am sure they all differ in some way.
Thanks to everyone for their responses! Any more questions and I will be WAY off topic. Time for research or a new thread!
 
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