clay bar and work questions

Bill1234

Bill1234

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I have a clay bar kit from meguiars, right now im running low on the bar and lubricant. How would I get the best value clay and lubricant. Im thinking water and a bit of olive oil. Or just water. Also what is the recommended clay bar I buy?
 
Oil and water dont mix right?

I use wash soap and distilled water.

Car was soap does tend to break the clay up faster. Imo
 
would water work good, and how should I go about getting the clay bars?
 
Nanoskin wash mitt best thing I've bought in a long time. You get about 45-50 uses out of it and much faster than clay.
 
Could also get the nanoskin pads for a DA. Did an entire cargo van today with the coarse pad on the 3401 and used only water. Glide from the nanoskin folks works pretty well and lasts at recommended dilution.
 
Hair conditioner in a spray bottle, mild but yet gives you a lot of lube.
It's cheap and I know first hand it works because I've used this method in the pass several time.
 
If your content staying with clay. Buy a name brand for the grade you need for the biggest bar at the cheapest price. All clay sold in the US is made by the same company. The only differences are color.
For Lube I use Gary Deans Infinite Use Detail Juice. You can also use Ultima WW+. They both are good. ( I prefer Gary's. I have a thing for helping out small business owners.) Both have ridiculous dilution ratios and have multitude of uses other then clay lube and a QD.
 
NewNickel said:
Could also get the nanoskin pads for a DA. Did an entire cargo van today with the coarse pad on the 3401 and used only water. Glide from the nanoskin folks works pretty well and lasts at recommended dilution.
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You should never just water when using any form of claying product. Your just asking for trouble and lots of marring.
 
Pureshine said:
You should never just water when using any form of claying product. Your just asking for trouble and lots of marring.
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One would think so, but the nano pads seemed to like dihydrogen oxide just fine. I could see where my results with no marring for an entire van could seem like an anomaly or maybe just contrary to marketing, but they are just that, results.
 
NewNickel said:
One would think so, but the nano pads seemed to like dihydrogen oxide just fine. I could see where my results with no marring for an entire van could seem like an anomaly or maybe just contrary to marketing, but they are just that, results.
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I would never take a chance with my customers cars ever! The manufacture even tells you to use plenty of detail spray. As a professional detailer doing things the right way is key and not taking chance with other peoples cars.

Directions
1. Thoroughly wash vehicle free of dust, sand, and dirt.
2. Mist sufficient detail spray or clay lubricant onto the surface evenly. (on this I would suggest the more the better)
3. Polish the surface with dual action orbital polisher using light pressure (Low Speed - we have found speed 1-2 on the Porter Cable to work well and speed 1 on a Griots Orbital Polisher works well.)
4. Wipe off residue and move on to compound and polishing or even go straight to your last step.

Important tips:
- Make sure you break the pad in first on the windshield or glass. What we like to do is on the first use or in general start with the glass first then move on to the paint.
- Sufficient lubrication is crucial to the AUTOSCRUB application.
- DO NOT use water
- DO NOT use with rotary polisher.
 
Pureshine said:
You should never just water when using any form of claying product. Your just asking for trouble and lots of marring.
HateSwirls said:
:iagree: totally.
HateSwirls said:
Hair conditioner in a spray bottle, mild but yet gives you a lot of lube.
It's cheap and I know first hand it works because I've used this method in the pass several time.
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I believe my vehicle's paint just may be beyond any help that a "hair conditioner" would be able to impart.

Accordingly...
Would you suggest that a "Hair Mask" product would be in order?

Thanks.

:D

"Bob" Sassoon
 
Bill just buy a bottle of the red Meg's detailer or mothers show time and go to work. Don't use water bc it doesn't work well and car wash soap in my experience has made clay crumble.

Bill many of your posts are worrisome. Between the tire and oil threads, this one asking what to use as clay lube I wonder if you're just pulling all of our legs. Not to mention you post these things then don't answer for hours and come back and completely ignore advice time and time again.
 
Pureshine said:
You should never just water when using any form of claying product. Your just asking for trouble and lots of marring.
Click to expand...

I've used only water for years and not had any issues. I either mist heavily or sheet water over the area I've going to work and do small areas at a time. If the clay starts to drag, I put down more water. I've found that by working with the hose in one hand and the clay in the other, I can work pretty effeciently...spray, wipe, repeat...

Am I missing something?
 
Desertnate said:
I've used only water for years and not had any issues. I either mist heavily or sheet water over the area I've going to work and do small areas at a time. If the clay starts to drag, I put down more water. I've found that by working with the hose in one hand and the clay in the other, I can work pretty effeciently...spray, wipe, repeat...

Am I missing something?
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You answered your own question it should never drag if your using the product it should never drag and if its dragging your just marred the paint. This why you need to use some kind of Lubricant when claying. I don't now any true professional detailer who just uses water when claying. I'm not willing to ever take a chance on some else's car. Its up to you if your willing to this.
 
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