Clay Bar Question

[ERS]

I am looking to polish my 2006 Black Mustang very soon. Haven't decided on products yet but was curious of everyone's opinion. I would say in my amateur view, that the current condition of the paint is very good with minor swirls. In fact, I would say excellent, considering almost 15 years old.

I have read many posts about claying and really think I know the answer before I ask. After washing, the surface is smooth to touch, with fingertips and back of hand. The plastic bag test, I feel some "grit". Not bad, but I do feel some. Is there a certain level of roughness to determine claying? Or, is it just if any roughness can be felt on the "bag test" that claying is a definite, prior to polishing? I do plan on DA polishing and then a wax. Again, not sure of products yet, just wanted to get a general opinion on the claying.

And, if anyone cares to share their opinion on the brands they favor, I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks.

Ernie

 

[tmdals0213]

Is there a certain level of roughness to determine claying?

I want to loosely quote Larry from ammonyc, claying should be done only when necessary and if you're going to be polishing the car afterward because it will induce marring on the paint.

(i found the video here - When to Compound vs Polish vs Clay - YouTube )

Claying the car will also give you 2 benefits.
1. When polishing, your pad will not pick up any embedded contaminants onto the pad, further inducing marring. If you don't clay or use an iron remover prior to polishing, think of taking 1 step forward b/c of the polishing, but taking 1 step back because the contaminants from the paint is now causing marring/swirls over the places you are polishing.

2. Your polishing pads will not load up as fast because you are now only removing clear coat. If you do not clay bar / remove iron from the paint, those will transfer onto the pad along with the clear coat, thus clogging your pads faster.

All in all, if you are planning to polish the car, even if some parts of the car do feel smooth to the touch, decontaminating the paint with iron remover and then clay will be tremendously beneficial for your polishing stage.

Also if you are cautious/anxious about using original clay that you knead, synthetic clay from nanoskin clay mitt/sponge/towel (offered on autogeek), this new type of clay will only need a rinse after a panel to rid of all bonded contaminants. It follows the same procedures as normal claying ex. needing lubrication, light pressure, based on friction, but sans the kneading.

Hope this helps and hope Mr. Mike Phillips agrees! He's taught me so much on this forum as well as the many others.

 

[DMiglio]

:iagree:

Very thorough and informative post! Well worded and I completely agree.

There may be times it’s not necessary, but if you plan to polish I’d wholly recommend it.

 

[vincec]

I am looking to polish my 2006 Black Mustang very soon. Haven't decided on products yet but was curious of everyone's opinion. I would say in my amateur view, that the current condition of the paint is very good with minor swirls. In fact, I would say excellent, considering almost 15 years old.

I have read many posts about claying and really think I know the answer before I ask. After washing, the surface is smooth to touch, with fingertips and back of hand. The plastic bag test, I feel some "grit". Not bad, but I do feel some. Is there a certain level of roughness to determine claying? Or, is it just if any roughness can be felt on the "bag test" that claying is a definite, prior to polishing? I do plan on DA polishing and then a wax. Again, not sure of products yet, just wanted to get a general opinion on the claying.

And, if anyone cares to share their opinion on the brands they favor, I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks.

Ernie

I've been using Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay with their Clay Lube for a number of years. While some more aggressive clay can cause marring requiring polishing, I find that Ultra Poly Clay does not cause marring on my vehicles clearcoat. I go right to LSP after claying and frequently check the surfaces afterward using the baggie test and they are extremely smooth. I'll only polish when needed to preserve clearcoat thickness.


Pinnacle?s Ultra Poly Clay is the single finest clay composition available today. Use auto Detailing clay to deep clean car paint, glass and chrome.

 

[ERS]

Thanks for the info. In the iron remover, should I tape my vinyl stripes completely? Seems like
It could damage 15 year old stripes.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks for the info. In the iron remover, should I tape my vinyl stripes completely? Seems like
It could damage 15 year old stripes.

I've never seen iron removers damage vinyl tape or vinyl graphics. I have seen it damage anodized aluminum trim.


As for claying? My personal rule and what I teach those that take my class - if you're going to clay you should already be planing on doing at least ONE machine polishing step to remove any marring.

Whether claying mars the paint or not comes down to a number of factors but just to be a professional or if it's your own vehicle - then only clay if you're also going to machine polish.

No machine polish - no clay.