Clay bar scratches

SPIROS ANTONIOU said:
i need a lube or i can use car soap?
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Make sure you use a lube. I don't care what anyone says, water will not do the job unless you do plan on polishing after the clay. I find that Meguiars Final Inspection works EXCELLENT. It's provides enough lube to break that surface tension without sacrificing any of the clay's ability to remove contaminants.
 
FRC Z51 said:
Make sure you use a lube. I don't care what anyone says, water will not do the job unless you do plan on polishing after the clay. I find that Meguiars Final Inspection works EXCELLENT. It's provides enough lube to break that surface tension without sacrificing any of the clay's ability to remove contaminants.
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Where is the "Disagree" smileyman :)
 
I get swirls and fine scratches after claying sometimes. It depends how bad the car is. You will get them, the only way to cut them down is to knead more or change pieces of clay often.
 
Jeez Flash, I didn't know you were such a momma's boy :laughing:

Personally I'm not much of a fan of Mother's clay. I have some but I never use it.
 
Just a little side note: if you ever drop the clay on the ground, it's now trash! Never re-use clay once it's touched any questionable surface. You are only asking for problems if you do.
 
Flash Gordon said:
Where is the "Disagree" smileyman :)
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Care to explain how a liquid with less lubrication will be more beneficial to one with great lubricating properties in terms clay bar use + scratches?

I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'm simply stating facts:
more lubrication = less surface friction = less chance chance of surface scratches (within reason, assuming you have not taken away from the effectiveness of the clay).

Hence clay bar manufactures like Mothers and Meguiars provide quick detailer with their clay and don't recommend water. In terms of the OP's concern, my .02 would be to use a quality lubricant and clean clay. If at that point the problem isn't solved, at least he/she knows it's not an issue with the products being used (or not being used).
 
Flash said he uses water. He is parsimonious :)

technically he only said it would work, whether it works better than lube is another story.

and he's probably going to use a yellow pad with Power Finish afterwards so any marring would be a non issue.

maybe now would be a good time to break out the funny liquid glass story?
 
jbgrant said:
This is not relevant to the OP, but I have had some issues with severly orange-peeled paint jobs and clay. I find that sometimes the high points (edges of the craters) get micro-abraded under very close inspection. It's nothing that a light polish won't correct in 1-2 passes with a DA, but it's still an annoyance. Anybody else experience this?
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That haziness you see is your typical clay bar marring. It can happen for a variety of reasons such as, using an aggressive clay, not enough lube and soft paint.

FRC Z51 said:
Make sure you use a lube. I don't care what anyone says, water will not do the job unless you do plan on polishing after the clay. I find that Meguiars Final Inspection works EXCELLENT. It's provides enough lube to break that surface tension without sacrificing any of the clay's ability to remove contaminants.
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The clay he is using (Bilt Hammer) is the only clay I know out there that says from the manufacturer to use water.


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I see very very light straight line scratches if the surface is extremely contaminated and the occasionally marring but other than that I dont notice it instill any deep rids or anything.

I've used Megs, Mothers, 4*, DP, Pinnacle, Clay Magic, TW and they all work pretty much the same to me besides grades.
 
Lasthope05 said:
The clay he is using (Bilt Hammer) is the only clay I know out there that says from the manufacturer to use water.


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I see very very light straight line scratches if the surface is extremely contaminated and the occasionally marring but other than that I dont notice it instill any deep rids or anything.

I've used Megs, Mothers, 4*, DP, Pinnacle, Clay Magic, TW and they all work pretty much the same to me besides grades.
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Exacly that that this clay can be used with water .I put and little car soap in the spay bottle.yes this very very light scrathces i was talking about and i see them under led lighting
 
The only way to reduce marring is to work on smaller section and knead the clay more often because it sounds like you are working on very contaminated surfaces.
 
Flash Gordon said:
I use water, but any of the 3 will work. Find whatever your most comfotable with :)
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FRC Z51 said:
Care to explain how a liquid with less lubrication will be more beneficial to one with great lubricating properties in terms clay bar use + scratches?

I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'm simply stating facts:
more lubrication = less surface friction = less chance chance of surface scratches (within reason, assuming you have not taken away from the effectiveness of the clay).

Hence clay bar manufactures like Mothers and Meguiars provide quick detailer with their clay and don't recommend water. In terms of the OP's concern, my .02 would be to use a quality lubricant and clean clay. If at that point the problem isn't solved, at least he/she knows it's not an issue with the products being used (or not being used).
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If you'll read the post above yours here, you will see I said to use whatever your most comfortable with. For me, its water

And no, I don't really care to explain myself as I have a feeling it wouldn't change your mind

No hard feelings,

Flash
 
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