Clay Bar

ohten

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Saturday I purchased a new 2013 Camaro(Red Jewel Tincoat) I informed the dealer not to detail my car due to the fact that they usually do more harm than good.After getting the car home and washing it I notice my microfiber towels were being pulled and leaving strands of material on the car.

After drying I ran my hand across the paint and the surface is very rough.I ordered from Auto geek the Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and the Ultima Elastrofoam Paint Cleaning System.I have never clayed a car and as of now the car has no swirl marks.

My question is how do I go about attacking this problem and not put swirl marks in the paint or make matters worse.I know to use lube and that's about it.

Thanks,any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
 
You have to obviously ensure the surface is completely free of particles that could get caught between the clay bar and clear. Marring can occur when clay barring - BUT I've never clay-barred a brand new off the floor car. I think as long as you are in the garage and the paint is completely clean - you should be good.
 
Clay doesn't normally induce swirls or scratches. Just be sure to keep it lubed. And before u start kneed it real good tear off some strech it out roll it around it your hands etc. For a bit.
And after u do a bit of the car and it starts to appear a bit used kneed it again. Keep the part that's on your car fairly clean

Sent from my SCH-L710 using AG Online
 
Use lots of lube. Maybe even get a small bucket and add some lube. Dunk bar in lube every few passes and move about the vehicle. Don't clay in circular motions. Best practice is try and make smooth back and forth passes until the paint feels nice and smooth without any dragging of the bar.

Another good practice is to break the panels of your vehicle down into sections and sometimes sections into multi/sections. Hope this helps.
 
if you can cancel your order, id cancel IMO.

im not a fan of the elastrofoam block, it will make a mess of your paint.

opt for ironx first, then if you still need the clay, look for a mild clay and use lots of lube, or else you'll be polishing!
 
Thanks guys any and all advice is appreciated.
 
Just noticed your from West palm. I was born and raised there. Lantana and jog and southern and Dixie lol. Small world
 
A new car shouldnt be terribly polluted, but it does need to be clayed. Pinnacle poly clay is a very mild clay and should not cause any marring. Clay can mar, especially if the surface contaminants are thick or rough (trust me, I know from experience). When I took delivery of my new Accord, it needed to be clayed, I used the Poly clay, and it was fine. Lots of lube and be careful and you shouldnt have any problems.
 
if you can cancel your order, id cancel IMO.

im not a fan of the elastrofoam block, it will make a mess of your paint.

opt for ironx first, then if you still need the clay, look for a mild clay and use lots of lube, or else you'll be polishing!

^^This is VERY good advice!
 
I agree with the IronX, very good advice. You could possibly have rail dust on your car.
 
Lube it up and use the pinnacle clay. Break it into 3-4 smaller pieces. You should have to only use half of the clay bar for the entire car.

If you get the nano skin sponge fine grade, I think you might like that. I use it on my car with great results.
 
I've seen a lot of videos on claying... I have not seen any that go into exact detail like I do in these...



Part 1 - How To Use Detailing Clay
[video=youtube_share;gfxAesk4Po4"]YouTube- Part 1 - How to use detailing clay[/video]


Part 2 - How To Use Detailing Clay
[video=youtube_share;opfK408uIxM"]YouTube- Part 2 - How to use detailing clay[/video]​



I also cover this and a lot more, always in-depth, in my how-to book...


The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine Paperback Book

Second_Edition_How_To_Book.jpg



:)
 
Here's a video with Matt Steele and me showing you step-by-step how to detail a Red Jewel Tint 2011 Camaro..

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xpgWnWbWfY]Mike Phillips & Matt Steele - How To Detail Your Car with Pinnacle Natural Brilliance - YouTube[/video]


:)
 
Might want to read this too...


Single Stage Paint - Tinted Clears - Basecoat/Clearcoat - Embedded Dirt



Tinted Clear Coats
If you're working on a TINTED clear you'll pull a LITTLE color or pigment and see this on your buffing pad. For example, here's some pictures from the Red Jewel Tint 2011 Camaro we buffed out a few weeks ago that belongs to Rene.


2011 Camaro - Modeled by Amy


Robert does a Test Spot on the hood to dial-in the process the rest of us will duplicate over the rest of the car. For this he's using the Flex 3401 with a Cyan Hydro-Tech Cutting Pad and the Blackfire Scratch Resistant Compound. This combination of products on the 5.0 Speed Setting removed all but the deepest RIDS
2011RJTCamaro008.jpg



Here you can see the tint in the tinted clear coming off the car as we compound it and onto the face of the pad. This is nothing to worry about, keep in mind when you're doing any correction work on a clearcoat paint system you too are removing paint that is building up on the face of your buffing pad but because the paint is clear you won't see it build-up on the face of your pad.



2011RJTCamaro010.jpg


See this article,
Why it's important to clean your pads often...


:)
 
I always polish after clay bar. Not that Clay will introduce alot of marring but it is the best practice.
 
I always polish after clay bar. Not that Clay will introduce alot of marring but it is the best practice.


That's the camp I'm in and state that on page 41 in the 2nd edition of my how-to book.

Many companies state you don't need to clay after using their clay with their clay lube but there are a lot of variables that come into play and it's just like you said, it's a good best practice to plan on doing at least one machine polishing step after claying or using any type of mechanical means to remove above surface bonded contaminants.

Especially if you're the type of person that loves a show car finish on your ride all the time...


It's also a good practice to plan on re-applying whatever wax or sealant you normally use as claying and other mechanical means of decontaminating paint will tend to remove any previously applied wax or paint sealant.


:)
 
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