clay differences?

Nothing really. Until recently all clay was somewhat similar, the difference was the "grades" or how aggressive the clay was. Now Riccardo clay became available in the USA and Optimum Clay was released at SEMA shortly after. Could there be a coincidence there? Who knows? The clay "in the tub" is good, because it give you an airtight place to store it. If left "out" it will dry up.

I would just get a reputable brand clay in the appropriate grade. Something on sale would be nice. Of course, clay alternatives are really nice for many reasons and can be cheaper than clay and easier to maintain.
 
Clay alternatives?

Yes. From Nano Skin, Chemical Guys, Optimum, etc... They have a "rubber" texture that decons the paint instead of using clay. You can get them in towel, block, or DA Pad form. Check out Nano Skin products on AG. They are the big boys of CAs.
 
One thing to consider with clay bars, they claim the new fine grade clays do not remove wax where the other grades do. Of course I don't enjoy claying so I only do it when I plan to polish and wax anyway.
 
Pretty much all the same, however I bought a bar of Clay Magic, first time and have to say I love the price:)
Easy to work with, the one I ordered is blue.

100 gram bar for $8.00 with free shipping.
 
If these clay alternatives are so much more convenient and cheaper due to the readability, why doesn't everyone just use them?
 
Pretty much all the same, however I bought a bar of Clay Magic, first time and have to say I love the price:)
Easy to work with, the one I ordered is blue.

100 gram bar for $8.00 with free shipping.

I've been using Clay Magic for years. I have tried others and for me they just don't match up. There are different grades but I mostly use the blue. Good luck!
 
For me I love the clay , I mean it's easy to use and gets the job done.
I've used it for many years and never failed me, why change?

If these clay alternatives are so much more convenient and cheaper due to the readability, why doesn't everyone just use them?
 
Now that the clay patent is no longer in effect, Ricardo clay and Adam's clay are now what used to be considered illegal due to the patent. I believe the new Optimum clay and CG's OG clay is also what used to be illegal due to the patent.
 
Most clay differences these days, is nothing more than price. (Other than the basics like fine, medium, etc as far as the amount of cut they have.)
 
I just recently saw in the MSDS for ClayMagic clay (one of the only clay bars that has an MSDS available) that they list it as having a 1 year shelf life.

I've never heard shelf life mentioned about claybar before. Anyone ever had claybar "go bad" in a year (assuming it's stored in a container/bag that's fairly air tight)?
 
Pretty much all the same, however I bought a bar of Clay Magic, first time and have to say I love the price:)
Easy to work with, the one I ordered is blue.

100 gram bar for $8.00 with free shipping.


The clay magic is all I use. Never had a need for anything more than the fine grade/blue.
 
Looks like you are 'new' to clay alternatives.

If you never used conventional clay, I'd recommend you to start with a small piece of clay, and also a clay alternative (sponge, towel or mitt)

Meguiar's Clay is a nice starter kit and comes with a very good QD for lube:

Meguiars Smooth Surface Clay Kit, meguiars detailing clay,

It's the most gentle Clay I've tried, yet it removes contaminants really well. The advantage of this being a fine grade is that it causes little to no marring. You can go from wash and clay to applying a coat of wax (if no more correction is needed).

I've also tried another from 3M:
3M Perfect-It III Cleaner Clay, 3m 38070, a paint-cleaning detailing clay that grabs foreign particles as it glides across the paint.

It's more 'aggressive' than the Meguiar's listed above, even feel more 'consistent' in your hand (Meg's one feels soft). It does removes 'more contaminants' at a time, at the cost of leaving more surface marring. It's always better to follow aggressive claying with at least one polishing step prior LSP.

Now we can talk about clay alternatives. They are (generally) larger and easier to hold, don't need continuous folding, and you can rinse it to clean (even if you drop it). They are a lot faster than conventional claying, so worth using every time.

You just need a bit of conventional clay for tight spots, and for that you'll have the Meg's kit I've suggested above, it'll last a really long time. For the rest of the car, you'll use your clay alternative + car shampoo as lubricant (please do a search regarding how to properly do this. If you wish, I can help you).

In fact, just like aggressive clay listed above, clay alternatives tends to leave more marring, which would benefit from one polish step just after.

For sure it will depends if you're dealing with harder/softer paints, the clay lube used, your technique, apart of the grade of the clay. Fine grade 'clay alternatives' tends to leave less or no marring (compared to medium grade clay alternatives).

Hope I've helped,

Kind Regards.
 
If time permits, the newer eraser type of clay will be hitting the market to take hold of Clay Magic's main hold of "plastic" type clay. IMO, you need a mix of many decontamination sources for many of the vehicles you might encounter.
 
Meg's Quick detailer (but not ULTIMATE quick detailer) would be nice. Meg's #34 (Final Inspection) is also great. You can also use ONR (optimum no rinse diluted) and/or some rinseless wash like DP Rinseless wash & gloss diluted at clay lube proportion.

Some people use only water (may not be sufficient but works in particular cases). Some use water with a little soap (but for conventional clay bar it can damage the clay with time). Soap water works great with clay alternatives (sponge / towel / mitt).

Keep your choice!

Kind Regards.
 
Funny thing, I went out to the garage to make sure I had quick detailer (no not the ultimate) and found a new unopened bar from Meqs so it looks like I am set for this year. Thanks for the info, it will help going forward.
 
Back
Top