Clay? IronX? heavy or light compound?

txmojo

txmojo

New member
Joined
Mar 28, 2017
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Hi Mike,
I have a 2 yr old (new to me) bmw , I just bought it a month ago.
The hood failed the plastic baggie test big time.

Am I ok doing claybar or do you recommend the ironex product first?

Also, I'm not sure if I need to use the Woflgang compound that comes in the ultimate (flex) kit or just the polish. how can I know?
would it hurt to use the swirl eliminator product just to be sure? iif it's borderline light swirls it really won't harm anything if I do use the compound will it?
 
The purpose of IronX is that you can remove the ferrous elements from the paint surface with out ever "touching" the car. This provides a few benefits.

A. Slows the contamination of the clay by dissolving the ferrous materials the clay would have otherwise picked up.

B. After using IronX, claying is easier and faster because there is less contaminate to be removed.

C. The less you touch your vehicles paint the less of a chance you have of causing marring.

D. Using IronX is just awesome because you can visualize how much junk your pulling off of your paint. This is a dual benefit in that you can make a generalization on how contaminated your paint is before claying, and it allows you to take awesome photos of your car bleeding purple.
 
Hello. I would recommend the following:
1. Wash car
2. Iron-x
3. Clay bar
4. Optional, wash again
5. Polish first. If that doesn'tmremove the swirls you are after then try your swirl remover/compound. You will have to go back and polish after that. Basically, least aggressive method first and as everyone here will preach, perfect your process on a test spot.
6. Wax, seal or coat the paint. If you decide to coat, you will need to remove all polishing oils first.
7. Sit back and admire your work

I have a 2014 CLS550 and my paint is difficult and hard. I just purchased micro fiber pads for my rupes and Wolfgang total swirl remover to see if I can get some annoying (to me, no one else sees them) swirls out from my roof. Hopefully your paint isn't like mine. My friend has a 2011 or 2012 M3 sedan is similar color to what you described and the Wolfgang products worked wonders for him. Good luck.
 
GREAT INFO.
Thanks for the help. I've ordered IronX and a foam gun tonight. will do that step before claybar as you suggest. i'm

thinking german engineered product (wolfgang) for german paint. :) Ill bet we both like it.
ntwillie1 said:
Hello. I would recommend the following:
1. Wash car
2. Iron-x
3. Clay bar
4. Optional, wash again
5. Polish first. If that doesn'tmremove the swirls you are after then try your swirl remover/compound. You will have to go back and polish after that. Basically, least aggressive method first and as everyone here will preach, perfect your process on a test spot.
6. Wax, seal or coat the paint. If you decide to coat, you will need to remove all polishing oils first.
7. Sit back and admire your work

I have a 2014 CLS550 and my paint is difficult and hard. I just purchased micro fiber pads for my rupes and Wolfgang total swirl remover to see if I can get some annoying (to me, no one else sees them) swirls out from my roof. Hopefully your paint isn't like mine. My friend has a 2011 or 2012 M3 sedan is similar color to what you described and the Wolfgang products worked wonders for him. Good luck.
Click to expand...
 
txmojo said:
Hi Mike,

I have a 2 yr old (new to me) bmw , I just bought it a month ago. The hood failed the plastic baggie test big time.

Am I ok doing claybar or do you recommend the ironex product first?
Click to expand...

Like mentined,

Iron removers = Chemical decontamination
Clay/Clay substitutes = Mechanical decontamination

Chemical decontamination is an option and if you choose to use one of these products use it first and then do the mechanical decontamination.



txmojo said:
Also, I'm not sure if I need to use the Woflgang compound that comes in the ultimate (flex) kit or just the polish.

how can I know?
Click to expand...


Great question!

I'm always so happy to share the below video Yancy and I made last summer. It is the ONLY video ever made that shows and explains in DETAIL who and why to do a Test Spot.

Check it out, it will answer your question above...



:)
 
I worked on a white Lexus RX300 a couple weeks ago. Ran out of IronX, but sure wish I had it. After claying the paint, there was still a lot of rust spots left over that clay would not remove. IronX would have made a big difference on this specific detail. Your car is black, so it's probably not as big of an issue. However, to get the paint as smooth as possible(so you're not grinding anything against the paint when polishing), I'd recommend IronX after claying the vehicle.
 
I need some IRONX for a detail tomorrow, but most likely cant get it shipped that fast. Anything i can get at a local auto zone or Walmart that is comparable to IRONX?
 
Automoglow said:
I need some IRONX for a detail tomorrow, but most likely cant get it shipped that fast. Anything i can get at a local auto zone or Walmart that is comparable to IRONX?
Click to expand...

I believe this is a mild version. And I can't remember if some have argued if this is not to be used on paint and only wheels. But since most wheels use a clear coat just like the exterior of the vehicle, one begs to ask the question, why would there be an issue. Make sure you research before you purchase.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
^ Also Griots HD Wheel Cleaner and Meguiars Mirror Bright Wheel Cleaner are two other OTC ones.

Obviously both wheel cleaners again so you'll have to make the call. I have used DUB on paint without any problems.
 
I can get that griots HD wheel cleaner locally anyone every use this to decon paint?
 
Mantilgh said:
^ Also Griots HD Wheel Cleaner and Meguiars Mirror Bright Wheel Cleaner are two other OTC ones.

Obviously both wheel cleaners again so you'll have to make the call. I have used DUB on paint without any problems.
Click to expand...


I was reading another thread "Meguiars D140 Wheel Brightener Dangers" a while back and came across BobbyG. comparing Wheel Brightener to IronX. I am mixing some up some tomorrow (4:1) to clean my wheels on my '06 Sienna and just may try some on a small section of the back quarter panel, that is unless someone chimes in to say I will be ruining my paint.

Ron
 
^Older style paint decontamination systems used acidic cleaners as a step in the process, possibly to remove iron. Acid wheel cleaners also work well on wheels because they are reacting with the iron. Another member here uses acid for an aggressive wash and to go after iron deposits, but it is for doing older abused public transportation.

Use caution if you do. Don't let it dry on the paint or run on to a dry area.

I believe the new color changing iron removers are much safer than the acid ones for numerous reasons.

The Meguiars product I was referring to is from the new Mirror Bright line and is not Meguiars Wheel Brightener if there was any confusion there.

Meguiars Mirror Bright Wheel Cleaner
 
Mantilgh said:
^Older style paint decontamination systems used acidic cleaners as a step in the process, possibly to remove iron. Acid wheel cleaners also work well on wheels because they are reacting with the iron. Another member here uses acid for an aggressive wash and to go after iron deposits, but it is for doing older abused public transportation.

Use caution if you do. Don't let it dry on the paint or run on to a dry area.

I believe the new color changing iron removers are much safer than the acid ones for numerous reasons.

The Meguiars product I was referring to is from the new Mirror Bright line and not Meguiars Wheel Brightener if there was any confusion there.

Meguiars Mirror Bright Wheel Cleaner
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification. With regard to the Sienna, I am quite ashamed to admit but I have never detailed the van completely, and probably only waxed it a few times with only a spray on wax since I bought it new. The only reason I was planning on trying the D140 is because I have no IronX and have the time to detail it tomorrow. I planned on not letting the diluted D140 sit on paint too long, but can rely only on my clay and lube.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top