Clay question

D

DrKnowledge

New member
Joined
Aug 31, 2014
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Newbie here....glad to be part of the mix. just got a new mustang GT 5.0 oxford white. Brought it home and applied two coats of Liquid Glass which I've used for years and like. Saw one of the shows on VELO network about using plastic bag to feel smoothness of paint. Tried it and was blown away by the bumps on my surface. Tried using clay bar but the bumps are still there. should I wait for the liquid glass to wear off as it seems that may have put a surface over the bumps that I can still feel and clay doesn't work yet. Any help appreciated.
 
Welcome to autogeek. ...yes you will still feel contamination though if a daily drivier dont worry about it much as long as its smooth to the bare hand your good also by clay barring you removed your lsp/liquid glass therefore I suggest you apply protection back to that area I also suggest you buy some iron x to remove the iron deposits that clay cant remove
 
I would wait sounds like u sealed what ever was on the paint i alwsys do the baggie test before anything
 
Here is a good way to get a smooth surface. First of course is a good wash. Do section at a time, not whole car. Baggy test. Clay with lots of Detailer until clay does not grab paint (I use a Speedy Prep Towel but any Claying product will do). Once the Clay glides across the paint use a medium strength Polish and a light cutting pad to remove remainder of contaminates. Baggy test. If smooth you are done, if not polish again. Now apply your sealant and then Last Step Product and done deal. Move on to next section.
 
Crispy said:
Now apply your sealant and then Last Step Product and done deal. Move on to next section.
Click to expand...
@Crispy:

IMHO:
•A Sealant is a Last Step Product.

So:
•If your Sealant isn't your Last Step Product...
-what is?

•TIA.


Bob
 
I like to wax my car, so I use Collinite 845 as my LSP. I use the Optimum Poli-Seal first, then Opti-Seal and then wax over that. It's probably overkill but I am in the process of seeing how well this holds up this Spring/Summer. Last year it was Optimum Gloss Coat and Opti-Seal and it did well during the Summer but Winter was hard on it and required a complete cleaning this past week. After Polishing I applied Gloss Coat, Poli-Seal, Opti-Seal and then the Collinite. That should do the trick going into next winter.
 
DrKnowledge said:
Saw one of the shows on VELOCITY network about using plastic bag to feel smoothness of paint.

Tried it and was blown away by the bumps on my surface.
Click to expand...

That would be the Baggie Test. Full article here,

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants


I know I've shown this on My Classic Car with Dennis Gage on both car paint and window glass but at this moment I'm only finding this episode but the process is the same...

[video=youtube_share;JxuBS3wDuTE"]Autogeek Garage - Glass Cleaning (Autogeek) -...[/video]​



DrKnowledge said:
Tried using clay bar but the bumps are still there.
Click to expand...

Claying doesn't always remove 100% of all contaminants. This is mostly noticeable if you do the baggie test AFTER claying.

This is why if it's important to me and the car I'm working on to ensure 100% of the contaminants are removed I'll use the Flex 3401 with a Medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad and lots of lube. Just posted this to another thread,



watermark.php



The paint on the above car was mechanically decontaminated using a Medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad on the Flex 3401 and then machine polished twice and then machine waxed.

How to use the Flex 3401 for Show Car Detailing

watermark.php






DrKnowledge said:
should I wait for the liquid glass to wear off as it seems that may have put a surface over the bumps that I can still feel and clay doesn't work yet.

Any help appreciated.
Click to expand...

Besides detailing clay there are these options,

Nanoskin Towel
Nanoskin Wash Mitt
Nanoskin Autoscrub pad like you see above. IT can also be used on tools like the Porter Cable 7424XP etc.


Nanoskin products


My personal practice is I don't use Nanoskin products unless I'm already planning on doing at least ONE machine polishing step afterwards to remove any potential marring for the decontaminating process.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
That would be the Baggie Test. Full article here,

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants


I know I've shown this on My Classic Car with Dennis Gage on both car paint and window glass but at this moment I'm only finding this episode but the process is the same...






Claying doesn't always remove 100% of all contaminants. This is mostly noticeable if you do the baggie test AFTER claying.

This is why if it's important to me and the car I'm working on to ensure 100% of the contaminants are removed I'll use the Flex 3401 with a Medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad and lots of lube. Just posted this to another thread,



watermark.php



The paint on the above car was mechanically decontaminated using a Medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub pad on the Flex 3401 and then machine polished twice and then machine waxed.

How to use the Flex 3401 for Show Car Detailing

watermark.php








Besides detailing clay there are these options,

Nanoskin Towel
Nanoskin Wash Mitt
Nanoskin Autoscrub pad like you see above. IT can also be used on tools like the Porter Cable 7424XP etc.


Nanoskin products


My personal practice is I don't use Nanoskin products unless I'm already planning on doing at least ONE machine polishing step afterwards to remove any potential marring for the decontaminating process.


:)
Click to expand...
Mike,
I have never clay barred before, so for a first timer, do you recommend Nanoskin system or clay bar system?
 
08ChevImpala said:
Hate to be a PITA, but which one is better...sponge or cloth? In your opinion...
Click to expand...
No pain here! I can't say. Sorry. I have the two grade sponge set. The pad, I'm sure is faster, but I'm just to scared to use on my DA. I'm just sheepish about what I use my DA for (my trust level is low because I only do my personal vehicles, so not feeling like an expert prohibits me from going the nano DA pad route). The sponge is literally as fast as doing an application of BFCS or WGDGLS...it goes so fast compared to holding that tiny little clay bar. Crazy fast...for paint that's good to great condition.
 
Odisious said:
No pain here! I can't say. Sorry. I have the two grade sponge set. The pad, I'm sure is faster, but I'm just to scared to use on my DA. I'm just sheepish about what I use my DA for (my trust level is low because I only do my personal vehicles, so not feeling like an expert prohibits me from going the nano DA pad route). The sponge is literally as fast as doing an application of BFCS or WGDGLS...it goes so fast compared to holding that tiny little clay bar. Crazy fast...for paint that's good to great condition.
Click to expand...
Yea, I can't see myself doing the DA thing either. I'm 48 and have done all my own detailing by hand. Seen too many screw ups from people not knowing what they're doing. Don't wanna be that guy. Thanks for your help.
 
Evan.J said:
Using the Nanoskin scrub on a DA is very simple. mike has a great video on this

How To Use The Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads
Click to expand...


Yeah, I just don't have that great a need. I'm only doing my own personal cars...I also am waiting on building my new home and in turn garage, but where I live now I'm just to scared of something getting between the paint and the rubber of the pad and swirling out. Unlikely I know, but I want a more controlled environment. Glad to hear it's easy though, maybe some day.
 
I was using the traditional clay bar up until recently. I had purchased a nanoskin mitt from Chemical Guys medium grade and its fantastic. Claying a car now with the mitt is the way to go. I can clay a medium size car in 15 minutes all while washing the car at the same time. The car shampoo acts as a super lubercant and works amazing.

Traditional clay bars are a PITA and takes far longer to complete. Drop the clay bar and your done. Should be thrown away immediately. Drop the nanoskin mitt, just rinse it off with the hose and your good too go. The nanoskin mitt costs 60 dollars and I can clay around 70 vehicles with it.

The clay mitt is the way to go and as long as you have good lubercation, marring shouldn't be an issue. I have also been using my Auto Geek foam gun prior to my nanoskin clay mitt for even more lubercation and break dirt down.
 
If removing all contaminates is important why was iron removal left out? Iron X then clay?
 
Lots to chew on here. Thanks so much for all the help and responses!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top