Clay vs nanoskin

frankprozzoly

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Looking at bobby g's pics of the audi detail makes me want to ask this. Is clay more effective or just preference. The nanoskin sponge is so much easier to use. I'm just curious about the difference
 
I have and use the nanoskin disk, towel and mitt. IMO, the disk works the best and is at least as good as traditional clay, probably a little better but with a fraction of the time & effort. The other two media are good but....I tend to use them for light contamination since I've found them to be less effective. Right tool for the right job. With that said, I'll never go back to a traditional clay bar.
 
In my opinion, the Nanoskin is good for 75% of all of my detailing jobs. In other words, it's effective enough to get off the road grime, rail dust, etc. to my satisfaction.

However, the other 25% of my jobs require the clay bar. The Nanoskin I'm using (medium grade) simply isn't enough to get all of the surface contaminants off. Thus, using clay is in order.

I will not use any wax until I feel that all of the surface contaminants are off of the paint. I will grant that the Nanoskin is easier to use, but there still remains a time and place for clay bar!
 
In my opinion, the Nanoskin is good for 75% of all of my detailing jobs. In other words, it's effective enough to get off the road grime, rail dust, etc. to my satisfaction.

However, the other 25% of my jobs require the clay bar. The Nanoskin I'm using (medium grade) simply isn't enough to get all of the surface contaminants off. Thus, using clay is in order.

I will not use any wax until I feel that all of the surface contaminants are off of the paint. I will grant that the Nanoskin is easier to use, but there still remains a time and place for clay bar!

Are you using the 6" disk on a DA machine? I agree with you when it comes to the towel or mitt but the disk is far superior.
 
I have the two grages of sponges and I bought the 6 inch disc for the da. I don't have good command of the disc. It's easier for me to use the sponges. Faster
 
FWIW...A couple of my thoughts:

•The use of any abrasive mechanical-device, to remove contaminates, is going to lead to the instilling of marring---to some degree---on vehicle surfaces.

•With that being said:
-Clays can be kneaded to embed (hide) sheared-off contaminates within themselves.
-Can the same be said for the Nanoskins and other similar contaminate removal tools?

•Sure as tootin...
-You probably can go around a vehicle faster with "Nanoskins".
-To me that just means the chance of instilling marring at a faster rate...and the likelihood there'll be more of it!


Further thoughts...
•Prior to the use of any abrasive mechanical-devices for decontamination:
-Vehicle wash
-Factor in Chemical Decontamination (ex: IronX; FinishKare; ValuGard).
-"The Baggie Test" to determine the need for clay/Nanoskins

•After the use of any abrasive mechanical-devices for decontamination:
-A fine/ultra-fine polishing session...At the very least.


Bob
 
Nanoskin works, but on a new pad/towel, it will marr the first few cars that you use it on.

As far as contaminant removal, it removes about 80-90% of what clay does. If you are striving for complete contaminant removal, I would advise claying after the usage of nanoskin.
 
I always use both for my detailing jobs. Nanoskin does tend to mar easier so it usually calls for polishing or at least a cleaner/wax cleaner/sealant with a polishing pad. I always have clay to use for hard to reach areas or corners of panels since I'm using the Nanoskin discs for the DA. I use the disc primarily with my FLEX 3401 on the lowest setting. Consider having both in your arsenal.
 
I have the Nanoskin fine grade pad and handheld scrubber, Griots clay, and Meguiars aggressive clay in my arsenal.

I use my Nanoskin for most jobs. If the customer is not paying for polishing, I use a bit more lube to minimize the chance of marring. I'm still trying to wrap my head around the idea of these. While it does work, I can't see the contaminants and wonder....where'd they go? As a precaution, I rinse off the surface of the Nanoskin often while claying.

I won't use my Nanoskin stuff on wheels and use the aggressive as needed for severely neglected and things like paint transfer.
 
While it does work, I can't see the contaminants and wonder....where'd they go? As a precaution, I rinse off the surface of the Nanoskin often while claying.

This is the one thing I wonder about too. What do you rinse it off with, the hose? Can you just keep an old towel on hand and wipe it down periodically to keep it clean?

I have a Nanoskin I'm going to use this fall and am trying to get all the tricks down for using one. I'm really hoping I don't regret picking it up. It looks like such a great idea.
 
I have the nanoskin mitt fine and never really see any marring the biggest problem most people don't use enough lube. Unlike clay if you drop it rinse off and keep going. I will still use clay when I'm doing paint correction and you need to break in the mitt or sponges. If you don't break them in properly they will mar the paint.
 
I have both and use both. I agree with what others have said that for the vast majority of jobs nanoskin is fast and effective. There are times I still break out the clay but it's not too often.
 
Since using the Nanoskin I very seldom use clay. Like mentioned in a previous post I use clay and very tough jobs, but probably 85% or better of my details are now with Nanoskin. DOes a great job and is so much faster.
 
For people using the nanoskin sponge, or even the mitt i guess, how do you clean it? how often should you clean it? I notice it gets like black residue on it and will sometimes leave it behind on the paint
 
I clean it as often as I'd kneed clay. Often once per panel. Just dunk it in my clean wash bucket or spray it off. I still use clay in certain areas but I HATE trying to hang onto it. Most of my energy seems to be focused on not dropping it. Lol.
 
Time is money and when I can get a car done in 15-20 minutes with a towel/mitt/pad no need for the clay bar that takes an hour.
 
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