Claying white paint nightmare

I'm guessing if there are little spots of rust this is something that was under the paint that got out, from contamination before painting or failure/defect of the paint.
 
I'm sorry this is still not making any sense to me. Call me dumb but I'm just not getting it.

First off, obviously most grit is abrasive but that doesn't mean that its sitting on your car with its sharpest edge. That would defy the laws of gravity. It would be sitting on the car on its flattest side.

Second, you say that its concentrating its weight on the paint like its a boulder or something. We're talking about pieces of grit that weight next to nothing.

I know how the grand canyon was formed. What's that have to do with the hot sun? Water is a force. The sun is not. When the sun is out shining, there is no type of abrasion going on. Its not "rubbing" against your car. I don't see why you brought up the grand canyon.

And lastly I still don't get how it can get so hot as to reliquify your cars paint. If its hot enough to where a piece of grit (which would weigh less than milligram, not really exerting any downward force on the paint) can sink in than surely the force of your finger (were talking about pounds of pressure being applied) will make some type of mark/indentation and I have never heard of anyone doing this on fully cured paint.

Maybe I'm wrong so someone please correct me
Ok, the Grand Canyon reference was a bit off. What I meant was that something small exerting a small amount of force over time can cause damage. If it isn't that the sun softens the paint and allows pieces of grit to sink down to the bare metal that causes pinhole rust spots that keep recurring in the same exact spots, then what causes those?
 
To revive an old thread - I've got a white 94 Mustang Cobra that I picked up last summer with the same issue - black spots. I'm guessing it was never clayed or properly detailed before. I used some store bought meguiars clay and it must have taken me at least 6-8 hours or more to do the whole thing, and still it's not as good as I'd like it. These black specks would kind of smear and after much claying would come off for the most part. Some of them wouldn't budge, I'd think it was a chip in the paint, but I'd hit it with my fingernail and the "top" would pop off and then it would clay off. I tried wax remover, etc and it didn't do anything.

Anyway I'm glad to find the tip on the more aggressive clay - I'll have to try that - looking at the new PC right now and hoping to get more into detailing.

Luke
 
Do you have any pictures of the Cobra so we could get an idea?

Stephen

To revive an old thread - I've got a white 94 Mustang Cobra that I picked up last summer with the same issue - black spots. I'm guessing it was never clayed or properly detailed before. I used some store bought meguiars clay and it must have taken me at least 6-8 hours or more to do the whole thing, and still it's not as good as I'd like it. These black specks would kind of smear and after much claying would come off for the most part. Some of them wouldn't budge, I'd think it was a chip in the paint, but I'd hit it with my fingernail and the "top" would pop off and then it would clay off. I tried wax remover, etc and it didn't do anything.

Anyway I'm glad to find the tip on the more aggressive clay - I'll have to try that - looking at the new PC right now and hoping to get more into detailing.

Luke
 
I have detail many white cars over the years . They love road tar from driving over fresh pavement ,pothole repairs & parking lots sealants. Before I clay I will use Stoners Tarminator or Prep Sol some citrus based solvent work to and don't leave sheen behind. then rewash that area . Then I clay the car. I would saywith Mustang Cobra you large tires which increase the stuff that gets flung up at your paint. The worst I cleaned was 03 white vette behind the each wheel had 30 spec of tar I took about 2hrs two clean up but claying wouldn't touch it . I use 2 cans of Tarminator on it . I just wish I had takin so pictures. LOL :buffing:
 
I wanted to share my experience and also have a question for the weekend warrior/professional detailers.

When claying a car with white paint, do you clay until all the neddlehead size black dots(contaminants) are removed? how long does claying take?

I'm in the process of claying my car and I guess I am a bit of a prefectionist because I am going section by section and claying until I remove all the black dots I see. The only way to really see the dots is if my face is about a foot or less distance from the paint. It took me 2 hours to clay 2 doors and the front fender and I am not having fun at all, its a chore. ive been using wolfgang and pinnacle clay( the pinnacle is alot less sticky and seems to work just as well).

Am I going overboard here? I've read that the contaminants get into the paint and start to rust the paint away hence the dark rust color appearance of the dots/contaminants.

Claying white blows. I just did my father's F250 Super Duty and the the lil dots suck hehe. Atleast when they are all up, that clear is CLEAN! :buffing: Also white paint has a tendency to hide ALOT of filth. God I do feel your pain. It took hours to clay the truck. When was the last time the car was clayed ? Usually after the first big clay, just keep a layer of wax on it and claying gets subsequently easier.

Also I LOVE the polishing pal for clay work. Regular method hurts my hands after a while.
 
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