Cleaning, clay bar, waxing help..

hazardous06

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I have been looking on this site for awhile and found helpful information on this site in the past. I recently noticed that two of my cars seem to have what almost looks like very faint oil spots from tire dressing splatter. On the hood, trunk and roof. I know that's not what it is, I think they are hard water spots. I have very hard water in my area. Anything that will be done to the cars will be by hand, since at this time I do not have the means for anything mechanical. One car is silver Nissan and the other is a red Audi. They paint textures on both are entirely different. The Audi is smooth with a nice shine, the Nissan is more matte feeling but does have a nice shine. They both are parked in a carport in NC, but they both started there life in NY. I know that both cars need a clay bar bad you can feel it, but they have never seen one. However I have seen some horror stories about marring and that scared the crap outta me. My intention was to wash, clay bar, wash, pre-cleaner wax and then wax. I am sticking with store bought stuff at this time because of my situation. I'm leaning towards mothers over meguiars, for the fact that I've had issues removing meguiars products from other cars in the past. I'm just looking for help with what I should do or shouldn't do, What I should use or shouldn't use. Thanks in advance for any help or assistance.
 
Wash (2BM), clay, inspect your work. If the spots aren't gone, you'll need to compound. Then polish (optional), then wax / sealant.
 
you could use gold class soap
clay
megs ultimate Polish at the least for pre wax
than use #26 paste or ultimate paste wax
 
Megs Ultimate Compound may be a better choice than just polish. UC and UP are both relatively inexpensive, so you could start with UP and if it gets you to where you want, then stick with that. If not, you could step up to the UC. Either will finish nice enough on its own to go right to wax.
 
Megs Ultimate Compound may be a better choice than just polish. UC and UP are both relatively inexpensive, so you could start with UP and if it gets you to where you want, then stick with that. If not, you could step up to the UC. Either will finish nice enough on its own to go right to wax.

I was able to get some pretty decent correction from Ultimate Polish. My wifes Toyota had some decent swirls and water spots that came right out. Not sure how Toyota's crimson paint compares to the offerings from Nissan or Audi.
 
I would really prefer not to compound for two reasons. First I will be doing it by hand, Second I have never felt comfortable enough to use compound. Heard to many horror stories. Just being honest with what I feel comfortable with.

Wash (2BM), clay, inspect your work. If the spots aren't gone, you'll need to compound. Then polish (optional), then wax / sealant.
 
Now for the ones that suggested UC or UP. I'm new so bear with me as I'm still trying to get the abbreviations down. UC = Ultimate Compound Polish and UP= Ultimate Wax. Is this correct?
 
I was able to get some pretty decent correction from Ultimate Polish. My wifes Toyota had some decent swirls and water spots that came right out. Not sure how Toyota's crimson paint compares to the offerings from Nissan or Audi.

Toyota paint is crazy soft; my sister has a '06 Corolla and my mom has a '04 Highlander. I've seen Toyota paint actually peel clean off the front/back bumpers in large sections before. I'm not sure if they've solved that in recent years, but they need to.

I have an '01 Nissan Altima and the paint is famously resilient (at least in that generation).
 
The nissan I have is a 02 altima

Toyota paint is crazy soft; my sister has a '06 Corolla and my mom has a '04 Highlander. I've seen Toyota paint actually peel clean off the front/back bumpers in large sections before. I'm not sure if they've solved that in recent years, but they need to.

I have an '01 Nissan Altima and the paint is famously resilient (at least in that generation).
 
Thanks the only place that has that out here is walmart. None of the auto stores.

That's pretty odd as the Ultimate line is Meg's most current of the consumer line. If they carry Meg's, they usually have UP on their shelves. I know Sears, K-Mart, Advanced Auto, Napa and Pep Boys carries the Meg's line... at least in my area.

If you cannot find UP, see if they carry M205 (usually tougher to find than UP) which is the professional version of UP.
 
That's pretty odd as the Ultimate line is Meg's most current of the consumer line. If they carry Meg's, they usually have UP on their shelves. I know Sears, K-Mart, Advanced Auto, Napa and Pep Boys carries the Meg's line... at least in my area.

If you cannot find UP, see if they carry M205 (usually tougher to find than UP) which is the professional version of UP.

All them carry the line, but only select products. I know that's strange. Walmart had everything that the other stores didn't have, and everything was at a cheaper price. Walmart had the UP as well as the UC. I even saw a Meg's kit that looked interesting as opposed to buying everything separate. Would this kit be what I need? It was a paint restoration kit and it came with...

16oz Gold Class wash
25gr Clay bar
8.4oz Quik Detailer
10oz Ultimate Compound
6oz Gold Class Carnauba wax
2 Microfiber towels & 2 Foam applicator pads.
 
All them carry the line, but only select products. I know that's strange. Walmart had everything that the other stores didn't have, and everything was at a cheaper price. Walmart had the UP as well as the UC. I even saw a Meg's kit that looked interesting as opposed to buying everything separate. Would this kit be what I need? It was a paint restoration kit and it came with...

16oz Gold Class wash
25gr Clay bar
8.4oz Quik Detailer
10oz Ultimate Compound
6oz Gold Class Carnauba wax
2 Microfiber towels & 2 Foam applicator pads.

Just a couple of comments...
You will need way more than 2 MF towels if you don't have them already. I always say more the merrier.
Gold Class is a good wax but it is carnauba based so it would not have the durability of a synthetic sealant. Not sure if you are after aesthetics or protection. If protection, you are better off with Ultimate Wax if you want to stay with Meguiars. Another popular option here in AG that is available OTC is Collinite 845. If you are more after aesthetics and dont mind waxing every month or so, GC is fine.
If it is your first time claying your 02 Altima, altho a small car, you will need more than 8.4oz of QD as there will a lot of contamination and you will find yourself needing more lubrication.
 
Just a couple of comments...
You will need way more than 2 MF towels if you don't have them already. I always say more the merrier.
Gold Class is a good wax but it is carnauba based so it would not have the durability of a synthetic sealant. Not sure if you are after aesthetics or protection. If protection, you are better off with Ultimate Wax if you want to stay with Meguiars. Another popular option here in AG that is available OTC is Collinite 845. If you are more after aesthetics and dont mind waxing every month or so, GC is fine.
If it is your first time claying your 02 Altima, altho a small car, you will need more than 8.4oz of QD as there will a lot of contamination and you will find yourself needing more lubrication.

Thanks for the input... I feel you with the MF towels, thats not an issue.. I have a few already and I can get those from anywhere. As for the wax I have always liked carnuuba wax, but that's just me. I don't have any issue with buying the Ultimate wax at a later time. I was thinking in terms of cost effectiveness.. The kit cost $25.. The ultimate wax alone cost $25. Also the 02 Altima is the worst car as far as the feel of contamination, however I plan on doing a min of 2 cars.. I also want to do my 04 audi which does not feel nor look as bad. So if that kit doesn't have a chance of doing a min of 2 cars then there really isn't point of buying it. I am thinking in terms of the clay bar and Quik detailer. I know there is enough wax and compound in the kit... Also can anyone tell me what is the difference between the UP and UC?
 
I would really prefer not to compound for two reasons. First I will be doing it by hand, Second I have never felt comfortable enough to use compound. Heard to many horror stories. Just being honest with what I feel comfortable with.

Don't be put off by the word "compound". You're doing it by hand, so you'll be fine. You can alter the agressiveness just by easing up on the pressure a bit if you wish. I notice you're interested in UC. That is (as the name would suggest) a compound.

Also can anyone tell me what is the difference between the UP and UC?

UP is a mild finishing polish. It contains lots of polishing oils and is far less agressive than UC. UC is a compound, so more agressive than UP, with less polishing oils.
 
UC is a compound... more heavy duty and for paint correction.
UP is a finishing polish... light weight for refining duties. Unless a soft paint, it will not level the paint.... well not the way one would expect.
 
Ok then thanks for the info... Which one will be rite for my cars?. My main issue is that I don't want to scratch them up... I haven't used a compound or a cleaner wax personally in almost 10yrs.
 
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