Cleaning, clay bar, waxing help..

That depends on lots of factors, such as the hardness of your paint, the severity of the defects and your technique.

They're not expensive, so you really should have both. Do a test spot with UP first and see if that gives the results you're after. If not, step it up to UC - that should work.

After UC, you can (optional) refine the clarity / shine with UP, then apply wax/sealant.
 
davey g-force said:
That depends on lots of factors, such as the hardness of your paint, the severity of the defects and your technique.

They're not expensive, so you really should have both. Do a test spot with UP first and see if that gives the results you're after. If not, step it up to UC - that should work.

After UC, you can (optional) refine the clarity / shine with UP, then apply wax/sealant.
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Well maybe if I dont get that kit ill try using UP. I rather start out too weak than too strong. I have a tendency to over buy so. I dont plan on using all that much pressure at first since I will be doing it by hand. I do know though that I have to put some pressure behind it so it can do its job.
 
davey g-force said:
You've got the right idea! :xyxthumbs:

always use the least agressive method to get the job done, and always do a test spot first. :)
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Since the problem areas are the hood, roof and trunk where would the safest place be? They are all highly visible.
 
Just on the hood or trunk will be fine. It doesn't have to be in an inconspicuous area - it's not like you're going to cause irrepairable damage or anything. To the contrary... you will perfect your process / technique on the test spot, so that will become your first corrected area!
 
davey g-force said:
Just on the hood or trunk will be fine. It doesn't have to be in an inconspicuous area - it's not like you're going to cause irrepairable damage or anything. To the contrary... you will perfect your process / technique on the test spot, so that will become your first corrected area!
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
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