Cleansing after Clay?.. Necessary?

rags2rich's

rags2rich's

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Hey guys- is there an advantage to "cleansing" the paint surface after clay (Pinnacle Cleansing Lotion, Duragloss #101) or could I go right to polish?

I have a new white 2006 Dodge Cummings Mega Cab.. noticed small, micro spider-webbing in the paint most likely from improper (wash) dealership maintenance.

Step 1- wash- DP Xtreme Formula in foam gun with Poorboy's SSS in bucket
Step 2- clay- Pinnacle Ultra Poly
Step 3- ?????
Step 4- polish- Menzerna FP II w/ Edge White pad
(or XMT #1 w/ Edge Orange if needed)
Step 5- ????? (Klasse AIO here?)
Step 6- sealant- Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Sealant or DP Premiun Shield Sealant
Step 7- wax- Pinnacle Liquid Souveran or DP Max Wax

Feed back please thanks
 
Wash, don't dry, clay. I learned that from Orngez. Drying before you clay will just add more time and you're going to polish anyways. Orngez said water spots won't have any time to etch, plus since you're going to use clay lube or detail spray for lube, those spots will come right off. I haven't had the need to use a cleansing lotion after clay. I've clayed, then went straight to LSP and had no problems. I'm sure you can polish right after claying.
 
klumzypinoy said:
Wash, don't dry, clay. I learned that from Orngez. Drying before you clay will just add more time and you're going to polish anyways. Orngez said water spots won't have any time to etch, plus since you're going to use clay lube or detail spray for lube, those spots will come right off. I haven't had the need to use a cleansing lotion after clay. I've clayed, then went straight to LSP and had no problems. I'm sure you can polish right after claying.
Click to expand...

You can really do this? Are you sure? Even if it's hot out and the car is drying while you are doing it?
I did not know that. I won't use soap as lube - I use the spray that comes with it only.
 
I would wash the car, rinse, then use the foam gun as lube for the clay. Then just rinse the panel off after Im done claying so the soap doesnt dry. Ive got pretty good shade and a water filter though.

Or you could just wash and not dry, use a QD to clay, then rinse off one last time when you're done claying and dry.
 
After claying go to the FPII next. I would use the green edge pad though. No need for the AIO either. Just put Wolfgang over the FPII and sit back and smile.
 
03gtmustang said:
I would wash the car, rinse, then use the foam gun as lube for the clay. Then just rinse the panel off after Im done claying so the soap doesnt dry. Ive got pretty good shade and a water filter though.

Been using this method for years.....the foam gun part is kinda new. Before it I just use the soap bucket.
Click to expand...
 
I usually carry a QD with me while claying as well. If it's hot outside and the leftover water is drying up, the QD helps.

Usually you don't have to re-wash after claying the car if your planning to polish it. But if your going to move straight to a LSP wax, then you should use some type of light somewhat abrasive sealant or cleanser, ie. Cleaner Wax, Klasse AIO, or XMT Glaze.
 
Another thing you could do after you finish claying is presoak the car with the foam gun, let it sit for ~30 seconds, then rinse everything off and dry. I think thats what Im going to do since I have left over soap in the gun.
 
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ltoman said:
You can really do this? Are you sure? Even if it's hot out and the car is drying while you are doing it?
I did not know that. I won't use soap as lube - I use the spray that comes with it only.
Click to expand...

Orngez said that it's fine.

orngez said:
i have never had a problem with water etching using this technique even in full 98 degree las vegas sun (this was my worst detail ever)
Click to expand...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-university/5689-how-do-you-do-2.html from this thread :)
 
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