Clear Cote Failer!!!!!! Woops!!???

Green Polishing/Finishing (available at AG)
White polishing
Green (AGAIN!) Heavy Polishing (Not available at AG)
Orange cutting

Its like I'm
deadhorse.gif
but they should have just chosen another color...
 
dontsleeponit said:
Green Polishing/Finishing (available at AG)
White polishing
Green (AGAIN!) Heavy Polishing (Not available at AG)
Orange cutting

Its like I'm
deadhorse.gif
but they should have just chosen another color...
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if others (or yourself) agree but I feel that the green 'heavy polishing' is more of a heavy duty cutting pad. The one I have, LC 7.5" VC, is much more aggressive than the orange pads and leaves a ton of marring. It is also more aggressive than my yellow CCS pad. I would put this green pad in the ranks of a bug sponge type make up ... open pores and quite strong. I have 2 of them and after using them I don't see any use of them ... I can use wool to correct the same defects without the micromarring I get from this green pad.

Pad colors get confusing, especially when people say that they used a "Blue pad" and fail to mention what brand. Who knows, a blue pad could be a finishing pad with one company and a cutting for another. Confuuusing.
 
budman3 said:
I'm not sure if others (or yourself) agree but I feel that the green 'heavy polishing' is more of a heavy duty cutting pad. The one I have, LC 7.5" VC, is much more aggressive than the orange pads and leaves a ton of marring. It is also more aggressive than my yellow CCS pad. I would put this green pad in the ranks of a bug sponge type make up ... open pores and quite strong. I have 2 of them and after using them I don't see any use of them ... I can use wool to correct the same defects without the micromarring I get from this green pad.

Pad colors get confusing, especially when people say that they used a "Blue pad" and fail to mention what brand. Who knows, a blue pad could be a finishing pad with one company and a cutting for another. Confuuusing.
Click to expand...

Really? Well, I am yet to use either of my green CCS pads, so I cant tell you about cutting ability. All I know is what LC calls them.

My green heavy polish pad doesnt feel nearly as dense or stiff as the orange pad. Maybe its because Im talking 6.5 ccs, and your talking 7.5, which might have an entirely different place for green:confused:
 
Maybe it's a 3rd different green pad, I don't know???? Actually on the site that I got it from calls this pad the "Green Dual Purpose" foam pad for compounds and polishes. So I guess it is a different cut as well. Again, confusing but the performance of the rest of the Lake Country line up makes up for it :).
 
Although I completely agree with using a least agressive approach, I don't believe the yellow pad and polish were completely responsible for the incident. You did what is commonly recommended; start with the least agressive pad and polish and increase agressiveness as necessary. I do believe paint can be damaged via the PC or any other polisher if common sense is not utilized, however, I don't believe this is the case. I remeber reading a post from Totoland Match were he indicated he was never able to detect a significant difference in the thickness of clear coat after compounding with a DA. In fact, a significant difference was only noted after compounding three times with a rotary. I suspect the clearcoat was already damaged; maybe consequent of being covered by the decal (adhesive, etc). I don't feel you should fear using agressive techniques if it is necessary. Of course, all of this is simply a matter of personal opinion. Hope this helps.
 
milabfocker said:
Although I completely agree with using a least agressive approach, I don't believe the yellow pad and polish were completely responsible for the incident. You did what is commonly recommended; start with the least agressive pad and polish and increase agressiveness as necessary. I do believe paint can be damaged via the PC or any other polisher if common sense is not utilized, however, I don't believe this is the case. I remeber reading a post from Totoland Match were he indicated he was never able to detect a significant difference in the thickness of clear coat after compounding with a DA. In fact, a significant difference was only noted after compounding three times with a rotary. I suspect the clearcoat was already damaged; maybe consequent of being covered by the decal (adhesive, etc). I don't feel you should fear using agressive techniques if it is necessary. Of course, all of this is simply a matter of personal opinion. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
you know what i never thought of the clearcote being damaged by the vinyl decal.hmm i wonder if that did screw up the clear . thanks hopefully that was the problem
 
since everything went fine on the rest of the decals spots left on the truck, Im guessing that maybe there was something on the paint in that area when those decals were applied, and it just etched the clear over time in that one spot...

i dunno just a guess
 
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