Coating Failures X2

I've been using EXO for quite a while now. I've never had a problem with it failing prematurely. I also don't use anything on it but car wash other than hitting it with C2v3 mixed with water at 20:1 as recommended by the manufacturer about every 6-8 weeks. I usually start doing that after about the first 6 months just to freshen up the gloss a little bit. I just finished re coating my Camaro after two years with EXO on it. It was still beading and sheeting fine. I just wanted to polish out some scratches.
 
Odisious said:
I disagree that coatings are as inconsistent as one post mentioned. User stated above that beading and sheeting were the reason he thought the coating was gone, but that his car still cleaned well. The coating is in tact as it should be. It's just an adjustment regarding user misconception. Use a microscope and I would bet my bet my stock of Collinite that the coating is still there. Beading and sheeting were a great feature of Turtle Wax Ice...ask people around here what they think of those product's durability, dust attraction, and cleanability. I'll state this fact again, cleanability trumps beading and sheeting on any day that ends with a "y".
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I respectfully disagree. You have no idea if the coating is still there. How can one person use coating X and get excellent beading for 2 years - and another person use coating X and get no beading after a few months and you still believe beyond a reasonable doubt the coating is still there???

IMHO the coating is gone.

People like to say the "coating was contaminated" and they "brought it back" (and saw beading) after some high pH / APC style wash. IMHO, this is just not true. Aren't coatings supposed to have LESS stuff stick to them than "wax"? Aren't coatings supposed to repel dirt? Have you ever heard of someone whose Collinite's beading mysteriously disappeared and the had to restore it with APC or they washed it with the "wrong soap"? No.

What these people are seeing after these strong washes is healthy naked paint's normal beading. Clean and relatively defect free paint will be fairly hydrophobic with no LSP on it. Just read through this thread and see the myriad of experiences with coatings. The reason they behave so differently is because some coatings are still there and some are not.

Measurement of "ease of cleaning" or "cleaning well" is sooo subjective. In fact, I've never seen a car that was difficult to clean. Decontamination and correction are different. Cleaning? Use any carwash soap on any car in a single bucket method and the car will be "clean" (above surface contaminants removed). This is regardless if it has a wax, sealant, coating, or no wax on the paint.

I just think coatings whose mysterious hydrophobic properties that come and go are a crap shoot. I say if it doesn't bead - it's not there. Wax always beads if its there after the paint is "clean". You don't need special soaps, boosters, or APCs to prove it.

Why do some peoples coatings fail and others do not? Dunno. Mystery.

slicksierra said:
For me beeding and sheeting go hand in hand with self cleaning abilities.
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Agree with this 100%. I agree so much that I say those who have no beading - their coating has failed.

DaveT435 said:
I've been using EXO for quite a while now. I've never had a problem with it failing prematurely... I just finished re coating my Camaro after two years with EXO on it. It was still beading and sheeting fine.
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It's great EXO lasted so long for you and your happy with the product. The OP's experience was completely different from yours. Again, IMHO - it's a crap shoot.
 
I agree with the above. So much so that if this coating disappears again or at least it's hydrophobic properties I will be trying a hybrid wax like pinnacle black label or kamikaze infinity. Mostly nuba was with less than 35% silica. Ease of use and dependability and familiarity of was with a little coating like boost from the added glass or ceramic particles
 
Man reading these threads whether coating is good or not; I am happy to stick with sealant and then topped with a carnauba wax....I will keep this old fashioned way my normal routine.

I have seen so many issues with a coating on many threads in the AGO forum I will just stick with sealant/wax routine.

Whether a coating is better or not, I choose not to find out. This thread confirms it.
 
I just find coatings are boring. If I didn't like taking care of my cars I would pay someone and not be on here.

As to the beading/sheeting and their diminishing properties, that seems dependent on how the coating reacts after being applied.
 
What exactly are these vehicle "Coatings", anyway?
Gotta be leery of how the word "Coating" is thrown about...
there is a lot of hype. So much so that it seems:

The marketing machine has gone totally ape-sh!t.
They think it's absolutely brilliant, but I'm not going for it.

IMHO:
"Coatings" = [ame="http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1ytCEuuW2_A"]The Price is Right losing horn - YouTube[/video]​


Bob
 
swanicyouth said:
What these people are seeing after these strong washes is healthy naked paint's normal beading. Clean and relatively defect free paint will be fairly hydrophobic with no LSP on it. Just read through this thread and see the myriad of experiences with coatings. The reason they behave so differently is because some coatings are still there and some are not.
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Completely agree with your post.

And not only that, in my testing, clean and defect free paint actually sheeted way better than even Wolfgang Fuzion wax. So a clean surface actually beads and sheets much better than most people realize!

My proof:

[video=youtube_share;PpuAmKJOLBs"]Wolfgang Fuzion Review - Just Half A Test Episode 1 - YouTube[/video]
 
ihaveacamaro said:
Completely agree with your post.

And not only that, in my testing, clean and defect free paint actually sheeted way better than even Wolfgang Fuzion wax. So a clean surface actually beads and sheets much better than most people realize!

My proof:

[video=youtube_share;PpuAmKJOLBs"]Wolfgang Fuzion Review - Just Half A Test Episode 1 - YouTube[/video]
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Lol. Fuzion is on my BMW right now. But at least I know it's there.
 
Swanic, bugs which have been on my front bumper a while and "baked on" in the summer can be hard to clean off. They will definitely not come off with just car wash soap. The use of a bug/tar remover is sometimes required and even then I have to apply pressure and/or use multiple passes. If there is no beading but these still come off easily with one pass of the mitt I would think to myself, "That sure came off easy" or as others have stated: was easy to clean.
 
I very much agree with the sentiment about coatings which sometimes bead and sometimes don't. If the coating beads when first applied, beads for a period of time and (for many) beads for an extended time - then its presence will mean that the surface beads. If it stops beading, then it has gone. Brands who suggest that it is still there, just not beading are bluffing. Never have I seen any evidence to prove this and I cannot help but think that they are simply taking advantage of customers who are either trusting or simply unable to prove that they are telling half truths. Lets face it, how is a normal person to show that the coating isn't there when it isn't beading? To be brutally honest, I doubt most of the brands would know how to do it and even fewer would actually have the ability.

I do have a bit of concern over some of the things previously posted. The beading of clean paint is one which continues to cause me issue. Again and again I see people polish their paint and show me that it is beading. Of course it is covered in oil from the polish. Likewise I see the same with paint cleansers and the same applies - those 'creamy' emulsion type products all have oils present. I know that many of these products claim to leave a surface totally clean but my experience contradicts this. To be confident of no oils present, you simply must use something like IPA after polishing.
 
swanicyouth said:
Apparently, coatings = crap shoot. Sometimes they last - sometimes they don't. Despite all the advice and speculation you will get in his thread, nobody but the Almighty knows what happened to your coating.

The manufacturer will say YOU did something wrong.

People on the the forum will insist the coating is still there - although the hydrophobic properties have vanished - essentially leaving no proof it's still there.

Then, others will tell you it needs to be cleaned with some special soap or degreaser to make it bead again, although a waxed surface will always bead when it's cleaned with any old regular soap IME :mystery:

Yet others will tell you you need to use there preferred brand to get lasting results.

Who knows for sure?

Nobody.

As far as I'm concerned if the coating isn't beading - it's not there. "Easy cleaning" is subjective and open too all types of interpretation.
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Kinda starting to feel the same way..
 
Like I originally mentioned, its not so much that I question the coating and manufacturers, I'm just questioning why, at least for me, it works exactly the way it supposed to on one vehicle, and not on another, which were both prepped and coated exactly the same way... This hasn't turned me away from coatings, I still think they are the "future" of vehicle protection.. When they work they bead, sheet, clean, and protect better than any conventional wax or sealant.. So these instances haven't turned me away from coatings, just question.. I plan on giving CQUK another try on the original mentioned vehicle.. and give EXO another try... Maybe Ill try C1 a try instead of CQUK.. who knows.. just have to see how and what I'm feeling like doing..
 
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