coatings: my thoughts about it

[2shiny]

Ok, before I start, just know I didn't think they were a miracle product thatsolves it all, but I did think they would improve a lot

So I corrected my car (DD) last week for a good 80-90%, and applied a coating to my bmw.
Was kept dry for at least 72 hours.
Today I decided to wash my car, using a rinseless wash, but it had rained and had some sand on it, so to take no chances, I went to the coin-up and thouroughly hosed it down.

Started my rinseless with 2bm and when drying, I noticed lineair marring...
My drying towel was completely clean, so this couldn't havecaused it... so higher scratch resistance, I really doubt it... or you can see itmore easily.

Water behaviour: epic... I will never question that, I have never seen anything like that with any wax or sealant.
Dirt also doesn't stick as easily on it and gets washed off by heavy rainfall.

But now I havemarring, I can't apply any glaze, or I will loose that incredible water behaviour.
You can't apply a coating on a glaze....

The looks are amazing,but to be honest, I still believe 95% of the looks are prep work. i have seen cars with wax or sealants that look as shiny as the ones with a coating (except for silver ones)
And they are so not fun to apply...

So, when my new car arrives, I doubtI will use a coating, or I'll apply it, and wax right over it, just to have theprotection, when the wax is wearing down.

 

[c2a]

What coating did you use?
I am going to coat my daily driver. Next week if I have the time I will re-polish the car. I polished the paint last week I used 3m pads and 3M ultrafine polish. I will see if I can pick up the gloss with some other finer pads.
Plus polishing prior to using the nanoglass coating will be a good thing to do. That way I will know the surface will be clean. I will find out if the nanoglass works.
As far as the coating it is all about the polishing (prep work). The coating goes on top of the polished paint work. The coating will just reflect what is underneath it. I am waiting on the arrival of some new polishing pads.

 

[silverfox]

First of all, go to the thread about Duragloss coating and see what happens to a coating when you top it. No point in apply a coating if your thinking is stuck in conventional gear. You wash it and forget it. If you're a wax or topping junky, you're thinking in the past and wasting your time and money on any coating.

Having said that, I've tried two coatings and would never touch my car with anything else at this point. The car practically washes itself when it rains or driving in rain. It sheds dust and water like crazy.

However these advantages are realized only when you leave the coating alone! That's been my experience. Most can't resist the conventional thinking process. Washing and drying time are cut in half for me. I even took it through touchless car washes all winter long and the car still looks like I just detailed it.

Reload seems to be an effective topping if you simply can't leave the coating alone however its an additional step and expense but few here don't concern themselves with that. The average car owner would probably appreciate a coating more.

 

[Bunky]

Some felt coatings would be the end...it is the new beginning...

 

[Setec Astronomy]

So I corrected my car (DD) last week for a good 80-90%, and applied a coating to my bmw....I noticed lineair marring...My drying towel was completely clean, so this couldn't havecaused it... so higher scratch resistance, I really doubt it...

As was asked, what coating? Some coatings take some cure time to achieve maximum hardness, but as you yourself stated coatings aren't "a miracle product that solves it all".

 

[2shiny]

It was the new wolfs bodyguard used here.
I'm not stuck in a conventional thinking pattern. I like the idea of a coating and like how slick they are and as said, love the water behaviour.
I never top, not even a wax, and never use a QD, as they leavepolymers behind that alter the properties of the wax.
But now having marring, I need to strip the coating to take off paint again as a glaze just can't be used. I see a coating as something great for DD's, but so are glazes...

 

[FUNX650]

Hard to tell by your accounting if the marring is in the Coating; or, if it's the ~20% of the uncorrected paint that can be readily seen through the optically clear Coating.

IMO:
"80% corrected"...leaves a lot on the table, so to speak.

Just curious:
I see X-% of correction posted quite often...
How did you "measure" your correction % amount?

Bob

 

[pld]

Hard to tell by your accounting if the marring is in the Coating; or, if it's the ~20% of the uncorrected paint that can be readily seen through the optically clear Coating.

IMO:
"80% corrected"...leaves a lot on the table, so to speak.

Just curious:
I see X-% of correction posted quite often...
How did you "measure" your correction % amount?

Bob

100 scratches total -- 80 fixed.

 

[2shiny]

I count the amount of swirls seen around the light before and sfter correction and calculate...
hell no, jist a guess.
but I did use the Nano Glaze after the correction, which is designrd to go under the coating, so the marring has to be new

 

[kevincwelch]

The way I see it: When topped, coatings should be topped by the same manufacturer's (preferably) coating boosters. Since these nano coatings are quartz/silica based, applying a quartz/silica based sealant on top is the only thing that makes since if you must top the original coating.

Topping a coating with a carnauba wax, hybrid wax or polymer sealant may make the paint look glossier or deeper (this is subjective IMHO), but it potentially detracts from the superior qualities of the underlying coating. Therefore, the visually appealing performance of the coating is lost until the LSP is eroded or removed.

Presently nothing is more durable than these quartz based coatings. Although hydrophobicity and weather resistance may be equivalent on the short terms, waxes and sealants certainly don't have any scratch resistance and in all likelihood are going to be less hydrophobic, acid-resistant, etc.

 

[FUNX650]

100 scratches total -- 80 fixed. :coolgleam:

Yea ya did.

I count the amount of swirls seen around the light before and sfter correction and calculate...
hell no, jist a guess.
but I did use the Nano Glaze after the correction, which is designrd to go under the coating, so the marring has to be new

So for the uncorrected defects:
You're saying the glaze did the trick see...Good Stuff, then!

Bob

 

[2shiny]

No, but I did check afterwards, and there was no lineair marring visible Bob

I don't want to top it, or notmy initial intention anyway.
I know wax has no scratch resistence, but when you havesome marring, you can apply a glaze and wax over it. When you have marring and a coating, you're just sc... euh scratched

 

[FUNX650]

When you have marring and a coating, you're just sc... euh scratched

For some Coatings:
It's advertised that when marring occurs, the marring can be polished-out of the Coating (sometimes it's over the entirety of a panel)...with a reapplication, of the Coating, to the polished-out area.

Could give this Wolf's Coating a shot at this "type" of correction.

Bob

 

[2shiny]

Might give that a shot... thanks for the advice

 

[allenk4]

No, but I did check afterwards, and there was no lineair marring visible Bob

I don't want to top it, or notmy initial intention anyway.
I know wax has no scratch resistence, but when you havesome marring, you can apply a glaze and wax over it. When you have marring and a coating, you're just sc... euh scratched

I agree that wax does not provide an additional layer of abrasion resistance.


But, some would argue that wax can actually help prevent scratches.

Wax can prevent contaminants from bonding as strongly to the paint and therefore more likely to rinse off during the wash process.

Fewer contaminants on the paint during the drying process, should yield fewer scratches in the end.


Made sense to me

 

[FUNX650]

Might give that a shot... thanks for the advice

Thanks...Hope it works out for you.

Also:
I try keep Coatings' total cure-time in mind.

Every time there's a report on this forum of a 'Coating' having:
lack of durability, a "fail", no beading/gloss/shine, etc...

Either the manufacturer of the 'Coating', or their spokespersons, inevitably states the total curing time is, and should be, around 30 days---sometimes even more.
And...Without adherence to this guideline, then:
The advertised, and stated characteristics of the 'Coating' will often be so compromised.

Folks can do what they want to in regards to a 'Coating' and it's curing...
But then should the complaints, from not following the total-curing time guidelines---when known well in advance---have any merit?

My answer is, indefatigably: No!
You and your vehicle(s) are not, at this point in time, ready for 'Coatings'. 'Coatings' represent, IMHO: Commitment.

I do, however, realize that others may not be so inclined to agree.

Bob

As was asked, what coating? Some coatings take some cure time to achieve maximum hardness,

 

[Shortspark]

People are probably tired of hearing me preach this time and again but with every thread about "thoughts on coatings" I feel compelled to reply the same way. Coatings are great advancements, no question about that. But to me they take all the fun out of detailing. I love my car, love the paint (I should, it was a $1600 option!) and love to rub on it and take care of it. I think of it as cheap therapy and good relaxation time with just me and my ride. I've been this way for the entire fifty years I have owned cars.

Professionals are excluded from this because they have to make a living and give their customers what they want but I would venture to say that most people here are like me - detailing enthusiasts and hobbyists. People like us want to experiment and enjoy trying different things to get our car looking just so. When the new flavor of the day hits we want to know all about it and chances are that eventually we will try it on our car as well. So do we really want a product we put on once and then do nothing for the next year or two except take out a wash bucket and sponge? I don't care how good the product looks or protects I need to do more than that. But the problem is that if I do, I destroy or diminish the coating I paid good money for and will have wasted the time I spent applying it.

I'm retired so I probably have more time to "kill" than most people here and that certainly is a factor but I could spend my time doing other things too, I just choose not to and would rather spend it with my car. It makes me feel closer to it and more a part of it and I like that feeling. I consider it somewhat the same as back in 1972 when I bought my Firebird Formula four speed. When I flung through the gears (always at redline!) I felt connected, totally in control and part of the vehicle's heartbeat. I don't want to give up the automatic transmission I have today and I am glad for that advancement but no way does it take the place of the true driving experience I enjoyed with that great old four-on-the-floor Firebird.

It is the same with detailing - by all means advance the product technology, especially for the everyday Joe who has no interest or time in detailing, but try not to take the fun out of it for people like us.

 

[Kamakaz1961]

Shortspark Thank you so much for your thoughts!! I am 100% in your camp! I just finished about 90% of detailing my car. I own my own business so I am time constrained to finish off the other 10%.

I try different products (mostly waxes) and see the results positive or negative. It is all in fun and that is the pleasure of detailing. Stress relief, peace of mind and a sense of accomplishment.

As for a coating...I have NO CLUE as I will never put a coating on. So I have no positive or negative opinion. However, if you're paying alot of $$ for a coating and having issues; then it is the same as a wax or a sealant....eventually, they all need maintenance.

IMO I would prefer the old fashion way as I know we can fix that with ease. It appears a coating is more difficult to repair.

Either way Shortspark I am in your camp. I am old but probably not as old as you.....it appears that the T-Rex roamed the earth when you were born!! I was born when the Woolly Mammoths and Saber tooth tigers roamed the earth!!....LOL

 

[Shortspark]

Ha! I won't say how old I am but SS helps me buy my detailing supplies and Medicare fixes my old back and joints when they go out. Medicare takes care of me so that I am able to work on my car in the first place!! I have enjoyed working on all my cars all my life and I hope I can do it until the day I die!

 

[peterhurcos]

The way I see it: When topped, coatings should be topped by the same manufacturer's (preferably) coating boosters. Since these nano coatings are quartz/silica based, applying a quartz/silica based sealant on top is the only thing that makes since if you must top the original coating.

Topping a coating with a carnauba wax, hybrid wax or polymer sealant may make the paint look glossier or deeper (this is subjective IMHO), but it potentially detracts from the superior qualities of the underlying coating. Therefore, the visually appealing performance of the coating is lost until the LSP is eroded or removed.

Presently nothing is more durable than these quartz based coatings. Although hydrophobicity and weather resistance may be equivalent on the short terms, waxes and sealants certainly don't have any scratch resistance and in all likelihood are going to be less hydrophobic, acid-resistant, etc.

Scratch resistance? That's debatable. The relative difficulty in applying these would create its own risks for scratches--see original post. After application? Sure. At least a little. A good sealant creates what is for practical purposes an impermiable layer for as long as it lasts. And as we know, quite a few of them last a good long time. Three applications per year is plenty. Two would work for 80% of us.