Coatings: too many to choose from!

Are any of the coatings able to be applied on sunny days? I'm also thinking of coating my DDs (mine and wife's) down the road, but no garage or the like. The few I've investigated so far all say "cool, out of direct sunlight". Thanks!
 
I will say this on the Glosscoat.


Good luck covering a 4 door long pickup truck with a cap with only 10cc.
 
Ryche said:
Are any of the coatings able to be applied on sunny days? I'm also thinking of coating my DDs (mine and wife's) down the road, but no garage or the like. The few I've investigated so far all say "cool, out of direct sunlight". Thanks!
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Can a coating be put on in sun light yes because I have done it but you have to move fast because coatings flash way too fast in the sun.

Find some shade and you will be ok with the validating application.
 
The price and quantity is pushing me towards BF's new coating. Once coated what is the process for bug and tar removal? Is the coating affected by bug nd tr chemicals like selants and waxes are?
 
Charleston said:
I will say this on the Glosscoat.


Good luck covering a 4 door long pickup truck with a cap with only 10cc.
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Meh, gloss coat goes a LONG way. I'd say you could easily so a whole SUV plus wheels and barrels on 10cc.
 
Well just in time to use the 15% off and free shipping i ordered the new bf crystal coating kit, nanoskin sponges, dp interior protectant, a 6 pack of LC 4 inch pads, aerospace 303 dressing and 1 liter of Trix. I will have to try the gloss coat on my wifes car.
 
Krwtek1 said:
The price and quantity is pushing me towards BF's new coating. Once coated what is the process for bug and tar removal? Is the coating affected by bug nd tr chemicals like selants and waxes are?
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I just grabbed my chest and almost fell out of seat! Bug and tar removal on a coating?

Follow these three steps.
1. Open you eye

2. Place your eye 1mm away from the painted surface (don't touch though).

3. Blink.

If you follow this process the bugs and tar will be gone.

In all seriousness, bugs and tar will wipe off with whatever you wash the rest of the vehicle with. Cleanability is a huge asset to coatings and it's why I appreciate them so much.
 
glfnaz said:
10 cc is 1/3 of an ounce. Can this be true? Do coatings cover that well?
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And speaking of cover:
-Seems like first: Have to calculate the combined total area of the vehicle's surfaces that are to be Coated/covered

-Secondly,
[if it matters...(there's been threads on this before)]:
How many microns "thick" will the totally-cured Coating actually wind up being, when using this 10cc amount?

-Then, divide this "micron amount" into the surface area.

Easy Peasy!



Bob
 
glfnaz said:
10 cc is 1/3 of an ounce. Can this be true? Do coatings cover that well?
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they vary. Gloss-Coat seems to go A LOT further than Pro, for instance. technique and applicator have something to do with it too. if you use neoprene, it will hold onto very little coating. if you use microsuedes, they will hold onto some, but not nearly as much as foam, which is the default included applicator with GC. i actually am not mad at the stock foam pads anymore once i realized that once it's primed, it's primed and holds onto product which can be coaxed out with technique but you only really need to add a little bit here and there as you go along. neoprene works well and is way more sparing overall but it's not flexible enough so it needs to be cut into something with angles imo. the angled microsuede "sandwich" applicator that OPT released seems like the best of both worlds.

i found Gloss-Coat to be way more efficient than 2.0...and 2.0 more so than Pro. if you use the foam applicator, once the pad is primed with Gloss-Coat, you only need a little bit per panel after that and that "little bit" seems to go a lot further than Pro. in before Kyle Allen says mockingly "only a few drops per panel" :)
 
builthatch said:
they vary. Gloss-Coat seems to go A LOT further than Pro, for instance. technique and applicator have something to do with it too. if you use neoprene, it will hold onto very little coating. if you use microsuedes, they will hold onto some, but not nearly as much as foam, which is the default included applicator with GC. i actually am not mad at the stock foam pads anymore once i realized that once it's primed, it's primed and holds onto product which can be coaxed out with technique but you only really need to add a little bit here and there as you go along. neoprene works well and is way more sparing overall but it's not flexible enough so it needs to be cut into something with angles imo. the angled microsuede "sandwich" applicator that OPT released seems like the best of both worlds.

i found Gloss-Coat to be way more efficient than 2.0...and 2.0 more so than Pro. if you use the foam applicator, once the pad is primed with Gloss-Coat, you only need a little bit per panel after that and that "little bit" seems to go a lot further than Pro. in before Kyle Allen says mockingly "only a few drops per panel" :)
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Thank you for the tips. I am going to do my first coating when the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating arrives next weekend. Doing paint glass and wheels. Do you have experience with this? I ordered the LC Foam applicators. Based upon the techniques you shared I shouldn't expect to use much more than about .5 of an ounce once I get my technique down. Does that sound about right on a mid size sedan?
 
HA! I used 30ml of CQUK on my wheels! "A FEW drops per panel" LOL...........
 
Evan.J said:
Can a coating be put on in sun light yes because I have done it but you have to move fast because coatings flash way too fast in the sun.

Find some shade and you will be ok with the validating application.
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Many thanks Evan! I'll have to keep that in mind. Gotta get myself comfortable with basic detailing before I consider a coating, but am liking the the DP - it looks very idiot proof (spray on, wipe till it disappears, move on to next section).... now the prep work, on the other hand... LOL.
 
builthatch said:
they vary. Gloss-Coat seems to go A LOT further than Pro, for instance. technique and applicator have something to do with it too. if you use neoprene, it will hold onto very little coating. if you use microsuedes, they will hold onto some, but not nearly as much as foam, which is the default included applicator with GC. i actually am not mad at the stock foam pads anymore once i realized that once it's primed, it's primed and holds onto product which can be coaxed out with technique but you only really need to add a little bit here and there as you go along. neoprene works well and is way more sparing overall but it's not flexible enough so it needs to be cut into something with angles imo. the angled microsuede "sandwich" applicator that OPT released seems like the best of both worlds.

i found Gloss-Coat to be way more efficient than 2.0...and 2.0 more so than Pro. if you use the foam applicator, once the pad is primed with Gloss-Coat, you only need a little bit per panel after that and that "little bit" seems to go a lot further than Pro. in before Kyle Allen says mockingly "only a few drops per panel" :)
Click to expand...

spiralout462 said:
HA! I used 30ml of CQUK on my wheels! "A FEW drops per panel" LOL...........
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Well that's why I was asking, cause you guys are pros and are experienced. The web site says *up to 25 cars for the 8 oz bottle*. I knew that was marketing shite but how many OZ would you expect on a medium size sedan? I'm a four car DD family!
 
30mL on the wheels? Wow. I used 15mL 22PLE on the entirety of my car last time.
 
spiralout462 backed out a parking spot too fast and left this made out of CQUK hahaha

ice-grill-jeep-north-carolina.jpg
 
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