Coatings?

Gloss coat is the easiest to apply, in my humble opinion looks the best (although that is mostly a prep result), has excellent durability, but has a high price point. 10cc of gloss coat is enough to do 2 sedans.
 
Imo cquartz coatings aren't for beginners. Stick with optimum gloss coat or blackfire.
 
VP Mark said:
Gloss coat is the easiest to apply, in my humble opinion looks the best (although that is mostly a prep result), has excellent durability, but has a high price point. 10cc of gloss coat is enough to do 2 sedans.
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good post. agree. prep part is so valid.

though i'd argue $60 isn't high for something that lasts so long...and compared to what people pay for other stuff around here, but i guess it's all relative compared to bigger bottles of competing coatings. i get it.
 
I recently used GC. It is definitely easier to apply than CQUK. But CQUK darkened/deepened the color which I liked. GC looked nice and shiny though.

Both are quality products and both fan very passionate fans. I like the look of CQUK and I will continue to use CQUK.

BlackFire coating is picking up a lot of steam with lot of great reviews. Be another option to look at.
 
builthatch said:
good post. agree. prep part is so valid.

though i'd argue $60 isn't high for something that lasts so long...and compared to what people pay for other stuff around here, but i guess it's all relative compared to bigger bottles of competing coatings. i get it.
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Yeah you do get a lot more applications of the lesser cost coatings.

I really like DP Paint Coating for example, but even though you get 10-15 coatings per bottle, the quality is just not near as higher cost products from Optimum or CarPro.
 
Mike@DedicatedPerfection said:
Go with the BlackFire Coating. It is extremely user friendly that produces great results.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-wash-beading-sheeting-videos-photoshoot.html
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Follow Mike's advice here regarding Blackfire Coating. Before starting, be sure to view his video from a couple of weeks ago of the application process. I have to second what he cautions in that video about using too much product. A little bit does indeed go a long way. My first time using it, I used approx 1oz to do a 2015 Subaru Outback. That was too much. I have some subtle streaking on the sides. Be sure to use the Blackfire Paint Prep.
 
Let's be perfectly honest.... all of the products you mentioned are great. Regardless of your choice, you're going to have great protection on your vehicle assuming all of the necessary steps are followed.

I am a long time CQuartz user, but I will also agree that Gloss Coat is just so darn easy. Of the 3 you mentioned, UK is certainly the most "finicky" to apply, CQuartz Classic is certainly less finicky, and Gloss Coat is downright easy.

Each of the products share their own unique traits in their chemical makeup which then translates to different appearance and/or physical characteristics. Gloss Coat seems to be rich with polymers as it leaves a very slick feeling compared to any other coating I have felt. UK contains a high silica content at around 70% pure silica (quartz), and darkens the paint considerably which makes it look absolutely stunning on jet black paint. CQuartz Classic has been improved in 2014 with the addition of Titanium nanotech and a stronger chemical resistance than before. I find that Classic really makes metallic flakes POP!

All will bead water well initially, but will likely fade overtime depending on your environment, therefore coating toppers can be used to further enhance the hydrophobic surface.

So again - you can't really go wrong with any of them. Choosing a coating is like choosing a wax... you can't simply ask "which is the best" and get a unanimous answer. Everyone will like something for one reason or another, you just have to try some out to determine what is going to be your personal favorite.

-Zach
 
VP Mark said:
Gloss coat is the easiest to apply....... has excellent durability........10cc of gloss coat is enough to do 2 sedans.
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Does it really have excellent durability? It's been said by a rep on the OPT forum that OGC may be removed by strong solvents; that's problematic if you ever need to get a spot of tar off, or if you use the wrong paint cleaner for that matter. I'm not saying OGC is bad, but excellent durability/chemical resistance are not among my expectations for it.

CQuartz coatings can suffer a similar fate from prolonged extreme alkaline or acidic conditions. My expectations are a little better for them, but still not in the category of excellent.

I guess I'm still bitter about OC2.0 :(
 
This is all great information! Because of this thread I've now taken a look at Blackfire and the videos Mike did. I carefully worded my question above as not to ask which is best, but rather, why someone go with one over the other. Could be the same thing I guess.

So far I'm hearing great things about all the products. I would imagine the CQ UK is engineered for the absolute damp conditions in UK. (I lived there for 3 years...) Even on a sunny day, the car and roads were covered in dew in the morning or from a early passing shower.

I live in NH now, and winters are harsh (4' of snow last year). That equals a lot of chemicals on the ground (sand / salt / chemical mix, over-spray on the highway), all bad for cars!

I'm new to learning about coatings, so thank you all for taking the time to chime in.
 
Swanicyouth has a post about OC 2.0 giving up the ghost after a harsh winter if I recall, maybe he'll chime in here to confirm.

My suggestion for your climate would be to coat before the long winter and expect to revisit yearly. In that case, probably go with a coating you can get several applications out of. I can't say for the black fire as I haven't used it, but the pinnacle black label coating was initially very slick to the touch, and my 20+ month old bottle of it hasn't hardened up yet.

I chose gloss coat this time around and it was ridiculously easy to apply and remove high spots, I'd say fool proof if you just bother to check it in the sun.

Here's my thread about it:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/92419-2008-dodge-challenger-srt8-works.html
 
My vehicle sits outside 24/7. While the weather here in the D.C. area isn't as winter harsh as NH, I chose to use CQUK for my first coating experience. I bought the kit last year, but didn't install it until February, when I had the opportunity to use a garage (in California!) for an extended period of time. I'd read that CQ can be temperamental to apply, but I found it quite easy.

I don't know if my experience is unique, but the hydrophobic nature of it didn't seem to last as long as I would have expected. The finish is/was still beautiful, but a couple of weeks ago I noticed the water beading after a rain was rather weak. I clayed the car and put on Reload (the leftover I had came with the kit). It's back to tight beads.
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Let's be perfectly honest.... all of the products you mentioned are great. Regardless of your choice, you're going to have great protection on your vehicle assuming all of the necessary steps are followed.

I am a long time CQuartz user, but I will also agree that Gloss Coat is just so darn easy. Of the 3 you mentioned, UK is certainly the most "finicky" to apply, CQuartz Classic is certainly less finicky, and Gloss Coat is downright easy.

Each of the products share their own unique traits in their chemical makeup which then translates to different appearance and/or physical characteristics. Gloss Coat seems to be rich with polymers as it leaves a very slick feeling compared to any other coating I have felt. UK contains a high silica content at around 70% pure silica (quartz), and darkens the paint considerably which makes it look absolutely stunning on jet black paint. CQuartz Classic has been improved in 2014 with the addition of Titanium nanotech and a stronger chemical resistance than before. I find that Classic really makes metallic flakes POP!

All will bead water well initially, but will likely fade overtime depending on your environment, therefore coating toppers can be used to further enhance the hydrophobic surface.

So again - you can't really go wrong with any of them. Choosing a coating is like choosing a wax... you can't simply ask "which is the best" and get a unanimous answer. Everyone will like something for one reason or another, you just have to try some out to determine what is going to be your personal favorite.

-Zach
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:iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree:
 
aim4squirrels said:
Swanicyouth has a post about OC 2.0 giving up the ghost after a harsh winter if I recall, maybe he'll chime in here to confirm.

My suggestion for your climate would be to coat before the long winter and expect to revisit yearly. In that case, probably go with a coating you can get several applications out of. I can't say for the black fire as I haven't used it, but the pinnacle black label coating was initially very slick to the touch, and my 20+ month old bottle of it hasn't hardened up yet.

I chose gloss coat this time around and it was ridiculously easy to apply and remove high spots, I'd say fool proof if you just bother to check it in the sun.

Here's my thread about it:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/92419-2008-dodge-challenger-srt8-works.html
Click to expand...

Aim

Thanks for posting this. I have the Pinnacle Black Label coating and was curios about the shelf life of the bottle. You are 20 months and still good to go? Great news.
:xyxthumbs:
How long have you had a single coat on a car and how has it performed? How do you maintain it?
 
Mine lasted about 18 months, I used the booster twice during that time, but I won't recommend it as I had a tougher time with streaking and removing those streaks than I had with putting on the coating the first time. Mike Phillips used the actual coating as a booster on his wife's car before the booster existed, and if doing it again, I'd do that instead. Just a bad experience with the booster for me. I bought the PBL detailer too, good product, but too rich for my blood. D114 seems to do equally as well and at a very significant savings.

I bought the gloss coat on an awesome black Friday sale and wanted to try it. I still use the PBL on the glass and wheels. I bought the surface coating, not the dedicated stuff.

I've only ever had to wash it, but I wash probably 46-48 of the 52 weeks in a year. I tried a nanoskin mitt, and OCP 10:1 when I suspected it had failed, but it made no difference at that time, I think it was done.

I don't use the special soaps or detailer on it. Optimum car wash, CG honeydew, CG maxi suds II, M34, megs Last Touch, and experimented with CG V7 for a bit. The V7 bought the smoothness right back to the surface, but the water behavior and dirt resistance was effected a bit by using it, so I stopped.

Even waxed it once with PB Natty Blue for a car show, but that wax was gone in like two weeks. BTW, I don't think the coating out right rejects the wax, but it seems to limit its longevity, which was fine, as it was just for that weekend and it helped raise a bit of money for my church.

I'll still use it up on the wife's car when I get a chance to correct it.
 
aim4squirrels said:
Mine lasted about 18 months, I used the booster twice during that time, but I won't recommend it as I had a tougher time with streaking and removing those streaks than I had with putting on the coating the first time. Mike Phillips used the actual coating as a booster on his wife's car before the booster existed, and if doing it again, I'd do that instead. Just a bad experience with the booster for me. I bought the PBL detailer too, good product, but too rich for my blood. D114 seems to do equally as well and at a very significant savings.

I bought the gloss coat on an awesome black Friday sale and wanted to try it. I still use the PBL on the glass and wheels. I bought the surface coating, not the dedicated stuff.

I've only ever had to wash it, but I wash probably 46-48 of the 52 weeks in a year. I tried a nanoskin mitt, and OCP 10:1 when I suspected it had failed, but it made no difference at that time, I think it was done.

I don't use the special soaps or detailer on it. Optimum car wash, CG honeydew, CG maxi suds II, M34, megs Last Touch, and experimented with CG V7 for a bit. The V7 bought the smoothness right back to the surface, but the water behavior and dirt resistance was effected a bit by using it, so I stopped.

Even waxed it once with PB Natty Blue for a car show, but that wax was gone in like two weeks. BTW, I don't think the coating out right rejects the wax, but it seems to limit its longevity, which was fine, as it was just for that weekend and it helped raise a bit of money for my church.

I'll still use it up on the wife's car when I get a chance to correct it.
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Thanks AIM for a great response. I bought the "surface" flavor also.
I bought it for protection primarily, with the idea that I am going to paint correct annually anyway. So I just want a one year protection. I've done several cars in my family. On one I came back a month later and put Collinite 845 on it. On another I've used Prima Hydro Max. I detail with DG FC&S and occasionally hit it with Aqua Wax. I haven't seen any comparability issues at all.

I was tempted to buy the dedicated booster and detailer, but I have gallons of DG FC&S and Aqua Wax. So as a summary, I like a clean car and the products I use seem to work great. No streaks or smears and the car is protected. I am probably breaking the rules but I like the results and I am in budget.
 
Audios S6 said:
Does it really have excellent durability? It's been said by a rep on the OPT forum that OGC may be removed by strong solvents; that's problematic if you ever need to get a spot of tar off, or if you use the wrong paint cleaner for that matter. I'm not saying OGC is bad, but excellent durability/chemical resistance are not among my expectations for it.

CQuartz coatings can suffer a similar fate from prolonged extreme alkaline or acidic conditions. My expectations are a little better for them, but still not in the category of excellent.

I guess I'm still bitter about OC2.0 :(
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Gloss Coat does have very good durability and especially good considering ease of application and effort to maintain. It's is very tolerant of exposure to any acid or alkaline cleaner that's intended for use on autos. I'm sure you could find something that would remove it, but it's not going to accidentally happen and you'll probably notice that the look or beads are fading long before it's fully gone. So, you will have some warning if you're using something that will take it off and it's not likely to happen with paint safe tar remover, apc, nor wheel brightener.
 
Chris Thomas said:
Gloss Coat does have very good durability and especially good considering ease of application and effort to maintain. It's is very tolerant of exposure to any acid or alkaline cleaner that's intended for use on autos. I'm sure you could find something that would remove it, but it's not going to accidentally happen and you'll probably notice that the look or beads are fading long before it's fully gone. So, you will have some warning if you're using something that will take it off and it's not likely to happen with paint safe tar remover, apc, nor wheel brightener.
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dang. thanks Chris.
 
Like Zach said it is very subjective. I have the Gloss Coat applied and topped with Collinite 845. I'm happy and that ultimately is what is most important to me. That said a lot of satisfaction can be gained trying different combinations to achieve the "I have the best I can do" results.
 
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