Collinite 840 and 845

txchevyz71

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First.. I have enjoyed reading this forum, and I have learned alot from your videos Mike. Thanks!

So I am looking to use Collinite 845 on my 2016 Iridium Yukon.

Year old car, I was planning to just wash, clay and then go straight to the 845. since it's a fairly new car(does this sound reasonable?) or do you suggest something else?


I also purchased the Collinite 840. What exactly does a "pre wax cleaner" do?

After purchasing it I see that it is not recommended for dark clear coat cars.
 
As a regular user of many Collinite products, 845 is an excellent choice. Just remember to apply it so thin you can barely see it.
With regards to the 840, Collinite and Autogeek both state on their websites that it shouldn't be used on dark clearcoats, so I'd definitely abstain. If you're looking to go OTC, try Meguiar's Ultimate Polish for a bit of prewax cleaning and polishing. Autogeek has a number of cleaners / polishes to prep your surface before waxing. Using one after claying will remove any minor marring left by the clay bar and further clean the surface, making your 845 both easier to apply and longer lasting.

Bill
 
Joke answer: To add $25-$40 to the cost of waxing your car and waste an hour of your time.

Real answer: I just went through this same question and got my answer with the experience of using it. Visually on a relatively new car with great quality paint you probably won't notice a difference (I did not). It's purpose though is to help strip off any prior waxes, help remove dirt/other stuff in the paint, and allow for a better bond of the wax/sealant. It is non abrasive though and won't take off any clear coat, so no harm other than the cost and time in doing it if not needed. If it works as manufacturers claim, then it will ensure buildup of dirt in the paint does not occur and make your wax last longer. It seems the kind of thing that you will scratch your head wondering why you do it every time, but at some point down the road many years if you don't you may scratch your head wondering why your paint is dirty and faded despite regular waxing.

What exactly does a "pre wax cleaner" do?
 
There are two "categories" of pre-wax cleaners (as I understand it). "Paint cleaning" can be done via abrasives (basically ANY automotive polish containing some level of abrasive load). And paint cleaning can be done via chemical means alone.

Products labeled specifically as "pre-wax cleaners" sometimes clean via chemical means alone. And some contain chemical cleaning agents plus some abrasive, but the abrasive is so fine that they're often labeled as being "non-abrasive". Slightly deceptive, but what it means to you is that it's NOT going to cause a haze like a compound might, and it might even clean up some swirls in the paint. Obviously, you won't get any correction from a "chemical-only" pre-wax cleaner.

These specifics might be spelled out for you on the product labeling or they might not be. It varies. If it's not on the label, AG's ad copy might give some extra details for particular products.

If you plan on doing any polishing/correction work before applying LSP's (last step products, i.e. wax or sealant), a "pre-wax cleaner" isn't needed. You're essentially doing your own pre-wax cleaning with your polish or compound of choice (you're "polishing the dirt away" with an abrasive). But if you're not polishing/correcting, then a true pre-wax cleaner can be beneficial, particularly on older, neglected paint. Or if you simply want to ensure that old product residues are removed before applying a new wax or sealant.

Keep in mind that AIO's (all in ones) contain a "built in" pre-wax cleaner (I say that loosely). Some AIO's clean via chemical means, some via super fine abrasives, some have both. All lay down a wax or sealant. AIO's are a time saver and are great on daily drivers. They're nice for do-it-yourselfers that aren't necessarily "autogeeks" (those who just want to throw on a coat of "something" a couple times a year). Or for those that don't want to pay for a multiple step detail. AIO's require just one step to clean, polish, and seal (instead of two or three separate steps). The downside of AIO's? They're not for appropriate for extensive correction work (90-100% correction or even moderate scratches) and the wax/sealant element generally doesn't last as long as a dedicated LSP.
 
First.. I have enjoyed reading this forum, and I have learned alot from your videos Mike. Thanks!

So I am looking to use Collinite 845 on my 2016 Iridium Yukon.

Year old car, I was planning to just wash, clay and then go straight to the 845. since it's a fairly new car(does this sound reasonable?) or do you suggest something else?


I also purchased the Collinite 840. What exactly does a "pre wax cleaner" do?

After purchasing it I see that it is not recommended for dark clear coat cars.

Regarding your current plan, products, and vehicle, sure you could use a pre-wax cleaner (I wouldn't use the Collinite one though). If you're claying, you can sometimes cause some micro-marring. A pre-wax cleaner with a light abrasive (or any polish) will clean up the marring and any light swirls.

Do you HAVE to use a pre-wax cleaner? No. The Collinite will bond just fine without one. It's tough as nails.

SHOULD you use a pre-wax cleaner? That's really up to you. From a few feet away, the Collinite will look great without using a cleaner and it will last several months, most likely. If you get up close and in the right lighting, you might see some swirls. If you don't have a DA polisher, I wouldn't bother with a pre-wax cleaner.
 
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