Component Speakers
- Thread starter cwebb
- Start date
jvs1991
In time out
- May 30, 2012
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I hAve alpine type r speakers, components as coax, and I'm very impressed especially running them off an amp they sound amazing. Also got a type r sub, the previous model, thing hits hard at 600W. The new ones are rated at 1000W.
One piece of advice Id like to offer with car audio is buy good stuff off the bat otherwise you'll end up investing more money than you would have. Also make sure you get good cables to hook everything up.
One piece of advice Id like to offer with car audio is buy good stuff off the bat otherwise you'll end up investing more money than you would have. Also make sure you get good cables to hook everything up.
It really depends on what kinda system that u want..
Sone people like a system that has a ton of boom. Some like one that's just extremely loud. Some like one that's just crystal clear and just has clarity that no stock system could ever compare to.
Here is what I can tell you based on my experience.
Loud boom: kicker. Dual voice coil preferably. The smaller the sub the more "thump" u get. The larger you get more "rumble" and lower notes.. people will argue but you don't need matching sizes for the 2 subs. . (Trust me) get a smaller one like an 8in for your higher bass notes and for that really hard "thump" u want that one in an unported (no hole in the box) smaller seperate box. Never put 2 different subs I'm the same box.
Mix the 8in + small unported box for thump and higher bass notes, with a 10 or 12 in a larger ported box (hole in it) that large ported box with larger speakers will give u tge really deep notes and the rumble.
Amp: u can use 1 amp to power all speakers but I highly recommend you use at least one amp per range (bass, mid, highs) if u can get one for each sub. For 1 8in a 1000 to 1200 watt will do very nicely. For the 10 or 12in get a 1200 to 1600 watt or if u get one amp for both subs you'll want at least 1800 to 2500 watt 2 channel.
Brand... u can not go wrong with power acoustic. Great price and amazing performance. Do research and b sure to get the right gauge power wire for the amp u have (that will ruin the sound)
Mids.. there are a few Pioneer are great. Power acoustic has some really good 6" and 6x9" Pioneer has some good 4in and good 5x6's again with the size vs sound. Larger deeper smaller although with mids give you a bit more clarity. If u get a smaller (like 8in) sub id go with no larger than 4in or at most 5x6. Hook at least 4 one in each corner of the truck to at least a 600 to 1000 watt amp. Pioneer has some good small amps.
Highs: kicker has really nice tweeters. 2 of their 2 1/2 inch tweeters are more than enough when put on the pillar arms with a 200 to 300 watt kicker amp. You actually don't have to have an amp with those tweeters though they are great.
That combo will give u the best of all aspects. Really clear some great boom and nice highs.
Of course if you want some thing that's just super clear and best quality u can get bose speakers for your mids.. their not as high as u may think for just speakers.. but you'll want a bit smaller mid range amp around 300 or 400 watt..
Hope this helps u some.
Sent from my SCH-L710 using AG Online
Sone people like a system that has a ton of boom. Some like one that's just extremely loud. Some like one that's just crystal clear and just has clarity that no stock system could ever compare to.
Here is what I can tell you based on my experience.
Loud boom: kicker. Dual voice coil preferably. The smaller the sub the more "thump" u get. The larger you get more "rumble" and lower notes.. people will argue but you don't need matching sizes for the 2 subs. . (Trust me) get a smaller one like an 8in for your higher bass notes and for that really hard "thump" u want that one in an unported (no hole in the box) smaller seperate box. Never put 2 different subs I'm the same box.
Mix the 8in + small unported box for thump and higher bass notes, with a 10 or 12 in a larger ported box (hole in it) that large ported box with larger speakers will give u tge really deep notes and the rumble.
Amp: u can use 1 amp to power all speakers but I highly recommend you use at least one amp per range (bass, mid, highs) if u can get one for each sub. For 1 8in a 1000 to 1200 watt will do very nicely. For the 10 or 12in get a 1200 to 1600 watt or if u get one amp for both subs you'll want at least 1800 to 2500 watt 2 channel.
Brand... u can not go wrong with power acoustic. Great price and amazing performance. Do research and b sure to get the right gauge power wire for the amp u have (that will ruin the sound)
Mids.. there are a few Pioneer are great. Power acoustic has some really good 6" and 6x9" Pioneer has some good 4in and good 5x6's again with the size vs sound. Larger deeper smaller although with mids give you a bit more clarity. If u get a smaller (like 8in) sub id go with no larger than 4in or at most 5x6. Hook at least 4 one in each corner of the truck to at least a 600 to 1000 watt amp. Pioneer has some good small amps.
Highs: kicker has really nice tweeters. 2 of their 2 1/2 inch tweeters are more than enough when put on the pillar arms with a 200 to 300 watt kicker amp. You actually don't have to have an amp with those tweeters though they are great.
That combo will give u the best of all aspects. Really clear some great boom and nice highs.
Of course if you want some thing that's just super clear and best quality u can get bose speakers for your mids.. their not as high as u may think for just speakers.. but you'll want a bit smaller mid range amp around 300 or 400 watt..
Hope this helps u some.
Sent from my SCH-L710 using AG Online
Aside from being a AG nut/addict, I also like my cars to have nice sounds. nothing beats the personal satisfaction i get when driving my freshly detailed car and having nice sounds. My advice is to get components from reputable brands. They're a little more expensive than the common brands but definitely sound better (thats why none of us use Turtle Wax, Armor All, etc). Start with the middle range products. When I started with this car audio hobby, I started getting the cheap "over rated" stuff, the sound was better than stock but not by a lot. Then I moved to the "reputable brands" but got the entry level products, the resulting sound was better but it did not last. So I moved to the high-end products of the reputable brands. Man was I impressed! The sound was great and to top it all, they last a very long time. My oldest audio set up is in a 2001 Honda Accord which was installed when the car was new. Its still in its original condition and still sounding very good. I also have a 2006 and a 2007 audio setup and they are still ok and sounding great. Just recently got a new SUV and of course setup the sound system.
In my cars I use MB Quart (germany), DLS (sweden), Hertz (germany), and the latest Focal (france). I dont have a favorite (like our children, we love them all equally).
So like LSPs, I like to have a lot.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using AG Online
In my cars I use MB Quart (germany), DLS (sweden), Hertz (germany), and the latest Focal (france). I dont have a favorite (like our children, we love them all equally).
So like LSPs, I like to have a lot.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using AG Online
cwebb
New member
- Feb 2, 2013
- 46
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- Thread starter
- #5
I've heard mb quartz have very bright tweeters that can be harsh sounding. Im looking for 6.5 speakers to fit my doors. ill probably go with comps in front. mids in back with no tweeters and a sub under seat. Looking for good staging and for music to be full highs, mids, bass. Going for sound quality but do like to crank it up. As for the sub i dont want to rattle my whole truck and have to sound deaden it all or have ppl hearing me coming from blocks away just a decent amount of thump that i can turn up or down depending on my mood. Also looking to get away with just using a 4 channel amp for speakers and mono for sub.
poweraid
New member
- Mar 23, 2011
- 1,046
- 0
I'm not too knowledgable on this stuff . them years are past me and I wear hearing aids now but I still like to crank it up . in my f-150 I have a alpine head unit that has hp/lp filters and sub output control. I have pioneers in the doors with a 4 channel 360w jl , and 12" pioneer champ pro with a 1000w jl . it's not the best top notch equip , but I'm satisfied . in a way wish it was louder yet . u have to fit the bill with what u can afford. don't go too cheap on the amps, a 1000w Sony Walmart special is not even close to even a 1000w mtx. u will be disappointed. similar mistake I made .
cardaddy
New member
- Nov 20, 2012
- 3,937
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I'll tell you what I (tried to) tell my Home Theater clients. Don't worry as much about your amps going in (for full range) and spend the bulk of your budget on speakers. At the end of the day you don't 'listen' to an amp, you 'listen' to your speakers. You can have $2000 worth of amps driving $250 worth of speakers and you'll NEVER be happy. :nomore:
I mentioned (for full range) because the ONE place you need to spend decent money on is your sub amp. Sub boxes, especially for trucks can be found at just about any pawn shop you go to. You don't need a 2000w or even a 1000w amp for your sub(s) as long as you have one that can handle high current. Take a decent 500w sub amp and it'll be more than enough (unless you like to ride around rattling your gas cap and license plate).
Eons ago I ran ADS Power Plates, a 40, 80 and 120 in a regular cab truck and it was all anyone ever needed. These days you'd never get away with that though, I mean NEVER! Those old ADS amps if it was rated 2x40, it would do that all day, every day, into 8ohms, and at 2ohms it was more like 2x120. In theory.... a unlimited current amp should indeed double it's power output with every halving of the ohm load, so yes, 40@8, 80@4, 160@2, and even 320@1. In *reality* however most amplifiers simply do not have the current to drive the output stages to such levels. (Even if the output transistors were capable of sustaining the load(s) and more importantly could dissipate the heat.)
The other side of that coin is in theory a speaker needs double the power for every 3dB of spl output over it's nominal rating. IOW's... Take a speaker at 86dB~1watt(again in theory), 89@2, 92@4, 95@8, 98@16, 101@32, etc.
Take a good speaker that is capable of getting really loud, and can take the power, and you start to see how they'll suck the life out of an amp in a hurry. That being said, most music is listened to at under 100dB, with most power requirements being well under 20 watts, and is why you see so many multi-channel amps in the 40 watt per channel range.
Sub amps however are a different story. Take a good dual voice coil sub, two 2ohm coils running in parallel and you're presenting a 1ohm load to the amp. That's almost like a dead short!
(well not really... but it'll kill a home amp in a few seconds) Can you get away with a 500 watt sub amp? Absolutely!!! (I did it with a 2x60 into the low end, competition 12's and could drive them into the low 120's all day long for YEARS!) Then again.... they don't make um' like they used to. 
In my kids 4Runner we went with Pioneer component speakers in the front doors, coaxial's in the rears and even with 'matting' all 4 doors (which made is sound a LOT better) I wouldn't do that route again. Not exactly the sound I was looking for.
The head is Alpine, as well as all Alpine X power amps. Picked up a Kicker L7 12" (port loaded) in a 3.5 cubic foot box at a pawn shop for only $120.
It could use a much bigger amp actually, and it REALLY needs a sealed box. He likes it though, and has actually learned to play around with stuffing the port to clean it up. For me it's way too muddy and floppy. Although most everything HE listens to is dubstep (that he mixes) and it's just what he goes for. Go figure......
I mentioned (for full range) because the ONE place you need to spend decent money on is your sub amp. Sub boxes, especially for trucks can be found at just about any pawn shop you go to. You don't need a 2000w or even a 1000w amp for your sub(s) as long as you have one that can handle high current. Take a decent 500w sub amp and it'll be more than enough (unless you like to ride around rattling your gas cap and license plate).
Eons ago I ran ADS Power Plates, a 40, 80 and 120 in a regular cab truck and it was all anyone ever needed. These days you'd never get away with that though, I mean NEVER! Those old ADS amps if it was rated 2x40, it would do that all day, every day, into 8ohms, and at 2ohms it was more like 2x120. In theory.... a unlimited current amp should indeed double it's power output with every halving of the ohm load, so yes, 40@8, 80@4, 160@2, and even 320@1. In *reality* however most amplifiers simply do not have the current to drive the output stages to such levels. (Even if the output transistors were capable of sustaining the load(s) and more importantly could dissipate the heat.)
The other side of that coin is in theory a speaker needs double the power for every 3dB of spl output over it's nominal rating. IOW's... Take a speaker at 86dB~1watt(again in theory), 89@2, 92@4, 95@8, 98@16, 101@32, etc.
Take a good speaker that is capable of getting really loud, and can take the power, and you start to see how they'll suck the life out of an amp in a hurry. That being said, most music is listened to at under 100dB, with most power requirements being well under 20 watts, and is why you see so many multi-channel amps in the 40 watt per channel range.
Sub amps however are a different story. Take a good dual voice coil sub, two 2ohm coils running in parallel and you're presenting a 1ohm load to the amp. That's almost like a dead short!
(well not really... but it'll kill a home amp in a few seconds) Can you get away with a 500 watt sub amp? Absolutely!!! (I did it with a 2x60 into the low end, competition 12's and could drive them into the low 120's all day long for YEARS!) Then again.... they don't make um' like they used to. In my kids 4Runner we went with Pioneer component speakers in the front doors, coaxial's in the rears and even with 'matting' all 4 doors (which made is sound a LOT better) I wouldn't do that route again. Not exactly the sound I was looking for.
The head is Alpine, as well as all Alpine X power amps. Picked up a Kicker L7 12" (port loaded) in a 3.5 cubic foot box at a pawn shop for only $120.
It could use a much bigger amp actually, and it REALLY needs a sealed box. He likes it though, and has actually learned to play around with stuffing the port to clean it up. For me it's way too muddy and floppy. Although most everything HE listens to is dubstep (that he mixes) and it's just what he goes for. Go figure......
cardaddy
New member
- Nov 20, 2012
- 3,937
- 0
I'll tell you what I (tried to) tell my Home Theater clients. Don't worry as much about your amps going in (for full range) and spend the bulk of your budget on speakers. At the end of the day you don't 'listen' to an amp, you 'listen' to your speakers. You can have $2000 worth of amps driving $250 worth of speakers and you'll NEVER be happy. :nomore:
I mentioned (for full range) because the ONE place you need to spend decent money on is your sub amp. Sub boxes, especially for trucks can be found at just about any pawn shop you go to. You don't need a 2000w or even a 1000w amp for your sub(s) as long as you have one that can handle high current. Take a decent 500w sub amp and it'll be more than enough (unless you like to ride around rattling your gas cap and license plate).
Eons ago I ran ADS Power Plates, a 40, 80 and 120 in a regular cab truck and it was all anyone ever needed. These days you'd never get away with that though, I mean NEVER! Those old ADS amps if it was rated 2x40, it would do that all day, every day, into 8ohms, and at 2ohms it was more like 2x120. In theory.... a unlimited current amp should indeed double it's power output with every halving of the ohm load, so yes, 40@8, 80@4, 160@2, and even 320@1. In *reality* however most amplifiers simply do not have the current to drive the output stages to such levels. (Even if the output transistors were capable of sustaining the load(s) and more importantly could dissipate the heat.)
The other side of that coin is in theory a speaker needs double the power for every 3dB of spl output over it's nominal rating. IOW's... Take a speaker at 86dB~1watt(again in theory), 89@2, 92@4, 95@8, 98@16, 101@32, etc.
Take a good speaker that is capable of getting really loud, and can take the power, and you start to see how they'll suck the life out of an amp in a hurry. That being said, most music is listened to at under 100dB, with most power requirements being well under 20 watts, and is why you see so many multi-channel amps in the 40 watt per channel range.
Sub amps however are a different story. Take a good dual voice coil sub, two 2ohm coils running in parallel and you're presenting a 1ohm load to the amp. That's almost like a dead short! (well not really... but it'll kill a home amp in a few seconds) Can you get away with a 500 watt sub amp? Absolutely!!! (I did it with a 2x60 into the low end, competition 12's and could drive them into the low 120's all day long for YEARS!) Then again.... they don't make um' like they used to.
In my kids 4Runner we went with Pioneer component speakers in the front doors, coaxial's in the rears and even with 'matting' all 4 doors (which made is sound a LOT better) I wouldn't do that route again. Not exactly the sound I was looking for.
The head is Alpine, as well as all Alpine X power amps. Picked up a Kicker L7 12" (port loaded) in a 3.5 cubic foot box at a pawn shop for only $120. It could use a much bigger amp actually, and it REALLY needs a sealed box. He likes it though, and has actually learned to play around with stuffing the port to clean it up. For me it's way too muddy and floppy. Although most everything HE listens to is dubstep (that he mixes) and it's just what he goes for. Go figure......
I mentioned (for full range) because the ONE place you need to spend decent money on is your sub amp. Sub boxes, especially for trucks can be found at just about any pawn shop you go to. You don't need a 2000w or even a 1000w amp for your sub(s) as long as you have one that can handle high current. Take a decent 500w sub amp and it'll be more than enough (unless you like to ride around rattling your gas cap and license plate).
Eons ago I ran ADS Power Plates, a 40, 80 and 120 in a regular cab truck and it was all anyone ever needed. These days you'd never get away with that though, I mean NEVER! Those old ADS amps if it was rated 2x40, it would do that all day, every day, into 8ohms, and at 2ohms it was more like 2x120. In theory.... a unlimited current amp should indeed double it's power output with every halving of the ohm load, so yes, 40@8, 80@4, 160@2, and even 320@1. In *reality* however most amplifiers simply do not have the current to drive the output stages to such levels. (Even if the output transistors were capable of sustaining the load(s) and more importantly could dissipate the heat.)
The other side of that coin is in theory a speaker needs double the power for every 3dB of spl output over it's nominal rating. IOW's... Take a speaker at 86dB~1watt(again in theory), 89@2, 92@4, 95@8, 98@16, 101@32, etc.
Take a good speaker that is capable of getting really loud, and can take the power, and you start to see how they'll suck the life out of an amp in a hurry. That being said, most music is listened to at under 100dB, with most power requirements being well under 20 watts, and is why you see so many multi-channel amps in the 40 watt per channel range.
Sub amps however are a different story. Take a good dual voice coil sub, two 2ohm coils running in parallel and you're presenting a 1ohm load to the amp. That's almost like a dead short!
(well not really... but it'll kill a home amp in a few seconds) Can you get away with a 500 watt sub amp? Absolutely!!! (I did it with a 2x60 into the low end, competition 12's and could drive them into the low 120's all day long for YEARS!) Then again.... they don't make um' like they used to. In my kids 4Runner we went with Pioneer component speakers in the front doors, coaxial's in the rears and even with 'matting' all 4 doors (which made is sound a LOT better) I wouldn't do that route again. Not exactly the sound I was looking for.
The head is Alpine, as well as all Alpine X power amps. Picked up a Kicker L7 12" (port loaded) in a 3.5 cubic foot box at a pawn shop for only $120.
It could use a much bigger amp actually, and it REALLY needs a sealed box. He likes it though, and has actually learned to play around with stuffing the port to clean it up. For me it's way too muddy and floppy. Although most everything HE listens to is dubstep (that he mixes) and it's just what he goes for. Go figure...... 
hernandez.art13
New member
- Apr 8, 2013
- 6,958
- 0
I am getting the type R sub ass well, probably 2 10"
get european brand component speaker, european or american amps and subs, japanese head unit and u will be ok. Have you ever heard any high end home or car audio using pioneer speakers. JL Audio makes great home and car subwoofers. Same with Focal. That is if you want clarity. Dont know much about the boom-boom sound. Too old for that.
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Sent from my GT-I9300 using AG Online
EddieF
New member
- Jul 21, 2012
- 327
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When it comes to the front stage of you're truck dont go cheap. Facal, Hertz, Jl audio. All of those brands have components that start at 200 and go all the way up to 5,000. Stick with the mddle of the line, put double the power the speaker recommends (you can always turn the gains down) and get some kind of signal processor. If you get a good enough signal processor, you can keep the stock unit, keep all your steering wheel controls and functions and still get really good sound. If you go with the Alpine MRP series amp, you will not be dissapointed. They are inexspensive, strong and clean.
dcjredline
New member
- Mar 26, 2012
- 3,340
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Im going to keep my recommendations simple, I think you got more than enough electronic info and most of it (that I read) is correct.
Front - MB Quart (the tweeter output on most crossovers have 3 different settings so you can "tone them down" since you are right they do tend to be too crisp for most people)
Rear - Pioneer
Sub - JL Audio (I haven't run anything except JL since the first time I tried them and Kove, don't know that Kove is even still around)
Amp - JL, Alpine, MTX, Rockford Fosgate
Front - MB Quart (the tweeter output on most crossovers have 3 different settings so you can "tone them down" since you are right they do tend to be too crisp for most people)
Rear - Pioneer
Sub - JL Audio (I haven't run anything except JL since the first time I tried them and Kove, don't know that Kove is even still around)
Amp - JL, Alpine, MTX, Rockford Fosgate
hernandez.art13
New member
- Apr 8, 2013
- 6,958
- 0
Alpine head unit for me, Alpine sub for me and going with Infinity reference for the 6x9's and 6x5's
I want to be able to able to open the trunk and the whole car look completely stock.
Does anybody have the sub volume control attached to their car? I bought and i love it cos sometimes I don't want to be bumping so it let's me control the volume of the sub only. Especially wheb cops are around
Really nice...
Got it on Ebay for $11
Infinity Reference
View attachment 17413
TimmyG
New member
- Dec 25, 2011
- 905
- 0
What is your budget? For a ridiculously clean setup for a lower price, I'd look at Image Dynamics. I had those installed in my wifes Camry, and couldn't be happier. I'm running Morel Virtus' in my Vette, insane quality sound with crisp highs and snappy response lows.
cwebb
New member
- Feb 2, 2013
- 46
- 0
- Thread starter
- #19
I was already leaning towards Polk but was thinking of going with the dbs, but after reading all the good reviews of the mm651, I think I might go with them.I just replaced the speakers in my truck....I went with Polk Audio.
MM6501 component system in the front and MM651 in the rear....rops:
