Compound not delivering expected results - What do I need to change?

I am in agreement with you here. Just disappointed I couldn't get rid of some more!



Yeah I didn't use DS until the 3rd and 4th go at it (are these called section cycles?), as the pad was starting to dust. I have more pads coming in the mail so I will be switching them out.



I will take a look! I actually meant to do a test - record video of the corrected section, then applying IPA to remove any potential "fillers", recording again to see if there's any noticeable difference. I will *absolutely* do this test on the other half of the hood, as it is swirls galore there and you should be able to notice if anything is being filled.


This part of your post confused me a little bit, comparing the Pink/Green LC CCS pads to their yellow/orange/white pads. Are you saying the P&G pads have more effective cutting than the Y/O/W pads due to the fact that they require less



I've just purchased ten 100% cotton terry cloth towels for $10 for cleaning the pads. I have cheap Costco MF towels as well, which would work better for this purpose??
Also, I purchased a nylon brush meant for cleaning grout. Is this what you mean by a "pad conditioning brush"? I can't see how it would do anything to the foam... In fact, I could see it causing tears.


Absolutely. I was almost set on purchasing $60+ worth of polish... I really need to take a step back and learn to use what I have (and most importantly, what I can afford!)

Lol no, I called them "section cycles" because it just seemed to make sense to me.

Yes, in my experience, the Pink cuts more than the yellow and orange. The green is a fine polishing pad, similar, but softer than the white.

The pink pad in particular has a pretty coarse, open cell structure, and for me that type of pad seems to have it's own "scrubbing effect". I use less pressure with that type of pad because I'm relying more on edge speed than oscillation. The pink foam conforms beautifully to irregularities and contours without losing a lot of rotation, where the stiffer yellow and orange foams tend to slow down more.

The only real reason I used microfiber towels instead of Terry, is because I didn't want cotton lint potentially interfering with the foam loops on the larger cells of my pads. With yellow, orange, and white, I have no problem using either. With microfiber pads I always use microfiber towels for the above listed reason.
 
Never been a fan or an advocate of PEA sized drops of product. Here's the real deal.... you NEED some amount of abrasives and lubrication on the surface working against the paint minus what soaks into the pad. Check out my article here...

From 2011...

How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher

For some products and paint conditions, you may want more product on the surface working for you. Here's an example of dime size drops of product.

Dime size drops of product
PrimingPad12.jpg


PrimingPad13.jpg

Not sure why I said 'pea-sized' - mine were definitely dime-sized!





That's called 4 SECTION PASSES - here's the article that has the definition for this term now used everywhere in the industry. The original article was written in 2009 but here's the article I created with just the info on the term section pass from the original article here.

The Definition of a Section Pass by Mike Phillips

I think you misunderstood - I meant I completed 4 section CYCLES; where I would stop, wipe and inspect after each cycle. I completed 4 section passes for each cycle (Two horizontal, two vertical passes). Am I using the terms correctly??? Haha

The compound you have is enough.

Try this,

  1. Speed 6 on our Porter Cable.
  2. Make 6-8 section passes
  3. Work a smaller area - for a PC 2' x 2' is too large
  4. Switch to a clean, dry foam pad OFTEN - dry foam pads cut better than wet soggy foam pads.


For most cars, in a perfect world you want one pad per panel for the compounding step. Let your budget and the value of your time be your guide.


:)

I agree with you that I should work a smaller area. I had some product dusting but I think that was due to the fact that I was in my 3rd section cycle. Nor did I use a cloth to wipe away any excess product off the pad at any point. I will be doing this in the future with 100% cotton terry cloths.

Edit: I should have watched your video before asking about the brush... Disregard the below question! It's definitely the same type of rough nylon brush, I will use this as well in between sections!
I also purchased a NYLON BRUSH today, meant for cleaning grout. It seems a bit rough though to be used on a foam pad. Is the brush only meant for when product gets caked on the surface? Like if I leave the pad overnight without washing the product out?
 
Yes, in my experience, the Pink cuts more than the yellow and orange. The green is a fine polishing pad, similar, but softer than the white.

The pink pad in particular has a pretty coarse, open cell structure, and for me that type of pad seems to have it's own "scrubbing effect". I use less pressure with that type of pad because I'm relying more on edge speed than oscillation. The pink foam conforms beautifully to irregularities and contours without losing a lot of rotation, where the stiffer yellow and orange foams tend to slow down more.

The only real reason I used microfiber towels instead of Terry, is because I didn't want cotton lint potentially interfering with the foam loops on the larger cells of my pads. With yellow, orange, and white, I have no problem using either. With microfiber pads I always use microfiber towels for the above listed reason.

I was confused because I looked up the LC pad colour chart and saw a pink-coloured (It's actually red) pad at the bottom of the list, just above their softest gold "jewelling" pad. It states it has no cut. I don't see them having a pink pad, though. Must be a different company!
 
Didn't even notice there was a 2nd page!

I have an article on that...

How to navigate to other pages in a thread



Not sure why I said 'pea-sized' - mine were definitely dime-sized!

I've seen a zillion people recommend using pea sized drops in the forum world, in videos, in person and on facebook and I think they're all wrong.

You want the AMPLE amount, not too little not too much.

It's really simple, you need some amount of SUBSTANCE on the surface to work with. Good to hear you're using dime sized drops, you'll do better work faster.


:xyxthumbs:






I think you misunderstood - I meant I completed 4 section CYCLES; where I would stop, wipe and inspect after each cycle.

That would mean you buffed the same section 4 times. As in b

1. Buff the section (with some number of section passes), wipe off the residue = buffing the section for 1 cycle or one time.

2. Buff the section (with some number of section passes), wipe off the residue = buffing the section for 2 cycles or 2 times.

3. Buff the section (with some number of section passes), wipe off the residue = buffing the section for 3 cycles or3 times.

4. Buff the section (with some number of section passes), wipe off the residue = buffing the section for 4 cycles or 4 times.


You could have probably performed only one cycle if you had buffed the area with 8 section passes and of course enough product, the right pad and great technique. This is where practices leads to experience leads to skill.



I completed 4 section passes for each cycle (Two horizontal, two vertical passes). Am I using the terms correctly??? Haha

I define what a section pass is in my article,

The Definition of a Section Pass by Mike Phillips



The definition of a pass
There are two definitions of the word pass as it relates to machine polishing with any type of machine.


Single Pass
A single pass is just that. It's when you move the polisher from one side of the section you're buffing to the other side of the section you're buffing. That's a single pass.


Section Pass
A section pass is when you move the polisher back and forth, or front to back with enough single overlapping passes to cover the entire section one time. That's a section pass.


How many section passes to make to one area of paint
In most cases if you're removing any substantial below surface defects you're going to make 6-8 section passes to the section you’re working before you either feel comfortable you've removed the defects or you're at the end of the buffing cycle for the product you're using.


Years ago, when trying to figure out how to teach a person how to buff out a car using a keyboard I came up with the term Section Pass or Section Passes.

A section pass or passes is the way you move a polisher to buff out a section of paint. You can't buff out entire panels at a time as paint is too hard and many panels are too large to actually buff out an entire panel at one time. So you take larger panels and divide them up into smaller section like you see in this picture.



I agree with you that I should work a smaller area. I had some product dusting but I think that was due to the fact that I was in my 3rd section cycle. Nor did I use a cloth to wipe away any excess product off the pad at any point. I will be doing this in the future with 100% cotton terry cloths.

Sounds like you watched the video and read some or all of the info I shared...

:dblthumb2:


Edit: I should have watched your video before asking about the brush... Disregard the below question! It's definitely the same type of rough nylon brush, I will use this as well in between sections!

I also purchased a NYLON BRUSH today, meant for cleaning grout. It seems a bit rough though to be used on a foam pad.


Is the brush only meant for when product gets caked on the surface? Like if I leave the pad overnight without washing the product out?


You can use the brush to clean wet product off the pad in-between buffing sections or after the pad has dried to brush off the dried, crusty residue.


:)
 
OKAY! I made what I would consider my final test spot as I now believe I have gotten the technique down pretty well (Still sticking with Megs Ultimate Compound). I put a couple strips of painter's tape down this time so I could see the true black and white difference... I buffed this spot twice as I realized I needed to work the two taped edges more after removing. I used speed 6 and applying more pressure on the machine (On speed 5 I almost couldn't apply any pressure before rotation stopped).

I'm curious as to what you guys think the "percentage" of correction was accomplished here. Around 80%? More? I should add that I've only used compound so far, I've yet to apply polish.

test_spot_21.jpg

On the tapeline:
tape_line.png


I've also recorded another short clip showing more of the correction.

There are still some RIDS however they appear to be less frequent. The tape effect really does the trick though; my girlfriend was even impressed :laughing:
 
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