Compound selection after 2000 grit

JT Moto

JT Moto

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I have about 15 2021 Silverado trucks starting to cycle out of our Bodyshop and headed to my bays.

The painter sends them to me for sanding of the dirt nibs, fisheyes and other defects. We have an old booth that doesn’t hold temp well so there are defects a plenty!

Given the sheer volume of work headed my way I’m looking for some advice on compounds after sanding down to 2000 grit.

On small spots I typically use Wolfgang UBER compound and an orange pad, but that would get expensive real quick with all of these trucks. Hoping to find some more cost effective compounds and I am open to good pad choices as well. I have a good stock of Lake Country Hybrid pads but no wool or wool blends.




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These trucks are GM owned and will be sent to auction afterwards so they don’t need to be of perfect quality. They are all different colors and some only need one panel done while others are 6 panels in need of work. ie marching the factory orange peel and taking out the imperfections from their trip to the paint booth.


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Rotary with 3D ACA 500 paired with a Hex Logic Orange foam pad will knock 2000 grit out pretty quick.
I run it around 1100-1200 rpms
 
JT Moto said:
I have about 15 2021 Silverado trucks starting to cycle out of our Bodyshop and headed to my bays.

The painter sends them to me for sanding of the dirt nibs, fisheyes and other defects. We have an old booth that doesn’t hold temp well so there are defects a plenty!

Given the sheer volume of work headed my way I’m looking for some advice on compounds after sanding down to 2000 grit.

On small spots I typically use Wolfgang UBER compound and an orange pad, but that would get expensive real quick with all of these trucks. Hoping to find some more cost effective compounds and I am open to good pad choices as well. I have a good stock of Lake Country Hybrid pads but no wool or wool blends.




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Whooa, that many damaged trucks? Menzerna 400 is not cheap, but in most cases you can 1 step, except for black paint. For the extra step that it will save you it's more than worth the cost of the compound.
 
Rsurfer said:
Whooa, that many damaged trucks? Menzerna 400 is not cheap, but in most cases you can 1 step, except for black paint. For the extra step that it will save you it's more than worth the cost of the compound.
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Yes, I’m sure it was either a train load or a couple of car haulers that had bad days. These things are stacked up all over the place. If I can one step it, that would pay for itself with just the time saved.


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My goto compound is Meguiars M105. If I get myself in a situation where M105 cannot remove the sanding scratches, I switch to M101 and they get removed. It really depends on the paint hardness. I use a DA with a foam cutting pad to remove sanding scratches, if you use something more agressive like a rotary and/or wool pads, you might not need as agressive a compound.
 
Calendyr said:
My goto compound is Meguiars M105. If I get myself in a situation where M105 cannot remove the sanding scratches, I switch to M101 and they get removed. It really depends on the paint hardness. I use a DA with a foam cutting pad to remove sanding scratches, if you use something more agressive like a rotary and/or wool pads, you might not need as agressive a compound.
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I used to use 105 quite a bit but moved on from it for no real reason. I ordered a flex rotary to help me power through these a bit quicker. Given how bad the booth is, there is more correction than I care to admit. I ordered the compounds listed by the other guys, and I still have some 105. I may end up just spreading the love around on the first couple of trucks and then find what’s going to work best for me so I don’t end up buried in these things in addition to my normal workload.


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JT Moto said:
I used to use 105 quite a bit but moved on from it for no real reason. I ordered a flex rotary to help me power through these a bit quicker. Given how bad the booth is, there is more correction than I care to admit. I ordered the compounds listed by the other guys, and I still have some 105. I may end up just spreading the love around on the first couple of trucks and then find what’s going to work best for me so I don’t end up buried in these things in addition to my normal workload.


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The one reason I can think of for switching from M105 would be the dusting. I never use it to compound a car. I just use it for wetsanding scratch marks removal, so because it's a very small area, I don't mind the little dust it creates. On a whole car though, what a pain!
 
Had a chance to work over some body shop cars over the last couple of days. The 3D compound blew me away! I used it with a variety of pads and machines and it was phenomenal.

Flex rotary, Orbital, and pixie made fast work of everything. I can’t tell you how much time I saved in two days!

Turns out I ordered the wrong Menzerna compounds, I ordered the ceramic compound that’s generally for Mercedes ceramic clear coat


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JT Moto said:
Had a chance to work over some body shop cars over the last couple of days. The 3D compound blew me away! I used it with a variety of pads and machines and it was phenomenal.

Flex rotary, Orbital, and pixie made fast work of everything. I can’t tell you how much time I saved in two days!
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Good deal! Ya that 3D ACA 500 is nothing short of amazing and finishes down insanely nice, all things considered.

You really wouldn't think a product would have any business being able to cut like that but also finish down as nice as it does.
 
98CayenneTA said:
Good deal! Ya that 3D ACA 500 is nothing short of amazing and finishes down insanely nice, all things considered.

You really wouldn't think a product would have any business being able to cut like that but also finish down as nice as it does.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I’m going to mess with it some more and see the versatility of it a bit more. I can see it being a go to for body shop work.


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Summer of 02 I was working for a Nissan Dealership and the GM found out I knew how to cut and buff. I mistakenly showed him my work and then next week I had 2 trucks of damaged paint vehicles from the auction and spent the rest of the summer polishing cars in Annapolis heat with no AC.

ACA 500 is awesome, go big pads and plow through things. Remember they are auction cars. Balance your labor/cost.
 
627PCFan said:
Summer of 02 I was working for a Nissan Dealership and the GM found out I knew how to cut and buff. I mistakenly showed him my work and then next week I had 2 trucks of damaged paint vehicles from the auction and spent the rest of the summer polishing cars in Annapolis heat with no AC.

ACA 500 is awesome, go big pads and plow through things. Remember they are auction cars. Balance your labor/cost.
Click to expand...

Well those trucks have come and gone and I ended up using car pro ultra cut and it made fast work of it.

ACA 500 worked well but the ultra cut was worth the extra cost in the time that it saved me.

Even though they went to auction they still had to pass an inspection so I’m glad I didn’t cut too many corners. I had a C8 rejected because the bottom of a rocker panel had orange peel


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