compounding newly-applied clearcoat

[ac4000]

Preamble: Today I compounded a test panel where I had performed one of a few repairs on a '90 LS400 that involved sanding (down to the metal in some cases), minor preventative rust treatment, filling, and repainting. Since I (originally) thought the repair areas would be very small, I went with color-matched spray cans I ordered online, followed by spray can clear, rather than loading up the HVLP system; but ... I ended up respraying the entire RL fender and rear bumper. In any case, the repaired areas look good, but the clear is still matte since it requires compounding, per the directions. I decided to go for Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and a white Lake Country CCS pad with my 7424XP.

Lead-up to question: The test panel came out nicely, but two odd things happened: 1) the tiny dent I had repaired in that section went back down to the metal, although it still appears to be covered with clear, which makes no sense (note that this error is probably indicative of a poor repair on that tiny dent--I did a much better job on the real panels); and 2) there appear to be some very, very small dots on the surface that are barely detectable but seem like I need to clay the surface or perhaps polish more. So before I move on to the real panels....

Question: Am I doing this right?

Thanks!

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[ac4000]

I started on the other panels with a white LC CCS pad and UC, but I couldn't get much of a shine, so I tried the same with orange pads. Helped a little, but ... now it looks like the pictures below. In my dream world, I've now polished the new clear enough that it's shiny, but in reality, I think I've just taken off all four coats of new clear and a light layer of new paint (brown/grey on the pads), leaving the factory clear coat, which is hard as a rock (and looks better). My understanding was that this was somewhat difficult to do with a DA, but I think the new clear was just pretty crappy.

Can anyone confirm my analysis? And should I respray at this point or keep compounding until I'm back to the factory clear wherever possible?

Thanks!
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[oldmodman]

Spray can clear is INCREDIBLY SOFT.

"Real" automotive clear like you would use during a repaint is a catalyzed 2 part product and hardens fairly rapidly.
Spray can clear can take up to a month in the sun to really harden.

Eastwood used to make a special clear in a spray can that had a hardener can built into the spray can. You would take the end of a hammer and press in on the hardener dimple then shake the can really well. Then you had about half an hour to use it all up. That spray can clear would be totally hard overnight. They stopped making it. probably due to the fact that you could die if you didn't use the proper mask while shooting it.

 

[ac4000]

Thank you!!! That's exactly what I needed to know.

Looks like I'm going to have to respray. I don't mind getting the real stuff and breaking out the guns, although I suppose I could also try thicker/more applications from the can. Any thoughts on which is better?

Most importantly, I need to prep the surface again. Given the current mix of factory clear and soft spray can clear, what would be the best way to get it ready? Do I need to take all the new clear off? Sandpaper or more hours with compounder?

 

[ac4000]

I did a little research and it turns out you can still get the catalyzed clear in a can--approximately 24 hours of life once activated, no need to buff afterward, and apparently the next-best thing to spray gun clear. A (very unscientific) sample of Interweb reviews seems to suggest it's the cat's meow. So I'm grabbing a can of that or cans for the spray gun for the respray--that much is settled.

I figure the thing to do now is scuff up the whole panel, respray/blend the area where I've uncovered the factory paint, and then hit it with the clear. Could someone with expertise in this area chime in and let me know if this sounds right? Any tips (esp. what grit for the scuffing)?

 

[oldmodman]

To scuff the paint you can just use a 3M scuffing pad. They work really well. And it's only necessary to go over the paint a few times to get the required degree of tooth.

And can you tell us where to get the catalyzed spray paint? I haven't been able to find any for three years now. Might be due to the fact that I'm in the biggest nanny state in the country, California.

 

[ac4000]

You bet: I've actually found it available at a number of online vendors (search for "Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol" and you should get plenty of results), and I'll probably buy it at Eastwood.

I lived in California for nine and a half years before moving here. Can't say I miss having to downgrade my intake to stock for every vehicle inspection....

Thanks for the tip on the scuff pad. I'll see if I can grab one locally so I can get started this weekend. My plan is to scuff the whole panel and see what the factory versus non-factory areas look like. If it needs it, I'll respray/blend over the factory area, then hit the whole thing with the catalyzed clear.

 

[ac4000]

Update for anyone looking for info on the Spray Max catalyzed clear-in-a-can: Back in December, I ended up using it (after getting a proper fresh air respirator). I resprayed the area and blended it into the factory paint, then scuffed it and gave it three coats of the Spray Max. It formed a good shiny clear, but was still somewhat orange-peely (due partly to the difficulty applying it, even though it applies fairly well for a rattle can). So I cut it and buffed it and now it's probably a 6 where the original Lexus paint is a 9 on a 1-10 scale. I probably could have done a few more rounds, but I was worried about cutting through and was on a tight schedule.

There's absolutely no comparison between the Spray Max and the regular rattle can stuff. The Spray Max is real clear. It was not, however, particularly easy to apply, so next time I think I'll just use a gun.

 

[glen e]

I had the same thing happen a year ago when I used some rattle can clear on a spot where the clear had lifted due to some adhesive tape. Same thing happened. I finally got it to where it was OK by waiting a couple weeks before I started compounding...