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Has anyone had problems with the new CCS Pads, cause last saturday I was doing a light polish on my buddies black Z with Klasse AIO and an orange CCS pad with my flex on 4 and managed to completely cover the car in maring, which I din't notice till I rolled it out in the sun to wax. I din't think to check during because this has never happened to me before, I mean I used the exact same combo on my car not to long ago and it came out perfect without any maring. I actually did my car at a higher speed than 4 adn still no marring. Anybody have any ideas of what going on here, I'm freakin at a loss? Thanks
 
Not enough heat or friction to break down the polish? I have noticed this with various polishes at lower speeds, that or something on the pad, but that would be unlikely since it was the entire car.
 
I was thinking that may be the case, but I was using AIO, which to my knowledge has no abrasives in it and shouldn't do that, but I could be wrong.
 
The orange pad is a cutting pad (light). I always follow up with a white polishing pad.

Orange pad by nature will leave micro marring and in my usage/to my standards does not finish LSP ready.

Now some will say "on light colored paints I have finished with an orange and it was lsp ready".. to that I say why do you treat paint differently based on color? Makes no sense to me, treating paint different based on CC yes, based on color n0 = just because light colors hide marring easier doesn't mean it's not there.

So, in short - I would expect some marring when using an orange pad as it is a cutting pad - I would suspect you DO have the same marring on your paint but you just aren't looking hard enough to see it since it's white paint (based on your avatar)
 
Has anyone had problems with the new CCS Pads, cause last saturday I was doing a light polish on my buddies black Z with Klasse AIO and an orange CCS pad with my flex on 4 and managed to completely cover the car in maring, which I din't notice till I rolled it out in the sun to wax. I din't think to check during because this has never happened to me before, I mean I used the exact same combo on my car not to long ago and it came out perfect without any maring. I actually did my car at a higher speed than 4 adn still no marring. Anybody have any ideas of what going on here, I'm freakin at a loss? Thanks

Like MotorCity Honda said, the cut of the orange pad is the cause of the marring...not the CCS pad itself.


Working on black or dark non metallic colored cars is a whole different ball game and IMO polishing black is the only way to truely learn and understand how to polish and use a machine.

For example, on a light colored car, when using a finishing polish you can slack off and not work it in all the way and it'll still look great. Now with a black car, you have to make sure to break down the polish properly and not to under or over work it or you'll leave a hazy finish.

Light colored cars hide so much hazing/micromarring that I've been able to use a cutting pad with SSR3 on a pewter colored car and after I'm done it looks ready for LSP...does it mean it's not there, no, you just can't see it.
 
I've had to use finishing pad on black, but most blacks are also softer nevermind that black shows the slightest marring. On my light colored vehicles, I can finish down a compound with a cutting pad and looks perfect, even with a halogen there is barely any micromarring showing. I've never seen anybody finish down a compound or polish with cutting pad on black and not gotten any micromarring.
 
didnt really notice that you stated orange pad, I would say that is it for sure, I always use a white or black , sometimes blue to finish black paint, especially if with a DA, blk or blue
 
Definately sounds like you didn't break down the polish properly or you didn't slow down the speed of the machine to finish.
You can definately finish LSP ready on most colours with an orange but it's alot of time to do that.

My working time is three to four and a half minutes with a rotary when I use every polish regardless of steps.
 
You can definately finish LSP ready on most colours with an orange but it's alot of time to do that.

I've yet to finish down to lsp levels with an orange pad.

I mean I guess if I had to settle I could but the added gloss and wetness that using a light polishing pad (white or blue) that will *jewel* the paint is something I love. When doing so the paint looks like it already has an lsp.. ha ha
 
Thanks for al the feedback, I understand everything you guyz are saying, and it was probably the case, but I have done this car before with the exact same combo, orange and Klasse AIO, but with an orange edge pad instead and my DA and had no marring what so ever, it finished perfect and actually at the time it was the only pad I could use to get the paint perfect, thats why I went with the same thing this time, is there a chance that the CCS orange pad is more aggressive than the edge?
 
One other thing - Klasse AIO is similar to Jeffs Werkstatt Prime
By rotary or even DA, it doesn't take long for the quite dry product to dry up and turn into little balls

Thus you have marring or hologramming
 
AIO is not a true type polish..its a paint cleaner by chemical nature....has no mechanical abrasives...so what in turn happened is the orange pad being a cutting pad micro mared the paint....for AIO I would use a white CCS pad or a blue...white is a very light cut at most...and blue is no cut..these 2 are best used for a chemical cleaner...

I am not a big fan of the orange pads..I can use a green or white pad with different cut polishes and get same correction levels as a orange and be 95%-100% LSP ready....if correction level is more than what these pads can do I just switch over to a green wool pad...

the texture of the orange just seems a little more abrasive to me and most times leaves micro marring what ever I used....so I need to repolish with a lesser abrasive pad...thats more work

Al
 
I agree with Al has said, but I also feel the pad did not have enough polish on it and you dry polished the vehicle. I am sure you had the same buffer marks in the white car but did not notice them.
 
One other thing - Klasse AIO is similar to Jeffs Werkstatt Prime
By rotary or even DA, it doesn't take long for the quite dry product to dry up and turn into little balls

Thus you have marring or hologramming

Youknow I noticed that the polish was doing that, and now that you said that it make a whole lot of sense and was definitely the problem, I was out in the sun and it did start to dry up real quick, man can't believe I missed that one, thanks.
 
AIO is not a true type polish..its a paint cleaner by chemical nature....has no mechanical abrasives...so what in turn happened is the orange pad being a cutting pad micro mared the paint....for AIO I would use a white CCS pad or a blue...white is a very light cut at most...and blue is no cut..these 2 are best used for a chemical cleaner...

I am not a big fan of the orange pads..I can use a green or white pad with different cut polishes and get same correction levels as a orange and be 95%-100% LSP ready....if correction level is more than what these pads can do I just switch over to a green wool pad...

the texture of the orange just seems a little more abrasive to me and most times leaves micro marring what ever I used....so I need to repolish with a lesser abrasive pad...thats more work

Al

Yet again I missed another basic detailing fact, I understand exactly what you mean with the pad, thanks man. I must have had brain malfunction that day.
 
I had decided to go with klasse AIO as my cleaner/wax for all my basic detail jobs, just to clean up the paint and give it a good seal, but do to the nature of klasse AIO should I go with another type of AIO to prevent this from happening again?
 
I use KAIO as a wipe on, wipe off cleaner after clay and/or wash; sometimes with a white 4" pad on a Polishing Pal, sometimes with a spray bottle and MF towel.

If you want an actual polish, I'd get another product, and then apply KAIO using the WOWO method.

Just my $.02...I'm sure the more experienced guys can elaborate more.
 
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