I was actually going to post a thread on what I've been doing lately for DVD's (I presume the same will apply to CD's). I was inspired by Bence on another forum a few years ago (who was reconditioning skipping DVD's for a rental shop).
The biggest problem is holding the disc--apparently on single-sided DVD's the logo paint on the non-reflective side is important as it reflects the laser back, so if it gets scratched off it makes things worse (at least that's what Bence told us). I think he was using a modified jewel case, and I tried that for a while but it wasn't really working for me.
Cutting to the chase, what I have been using lately is my GG 3", a Meg's 3" MF cutting disc, and D300, holding the disc in my hand. You can feel how hot it's getting (important to not damage the paint on the front). It works great, but it does take a little time and it's a little tough sometimes to tell which defect is causing the problem (circumferential scratches are worse than radial ones).
303 also used to have a product called Sonic Blast which was for CD's etc. They don't seem to make it anymore
303 Sonic Blast CD & DVD Cleaner, cd repair, cd cleaner but the idea seemed to be like when you have a clearcoat scratch that appears white, if it's wet or has fresh wax in it, it will appear transparent. Most of the time I found Sonic Blast not to work, but one time it worked like a charm. I'm not sure it was much different than regular 303, so you could try that or a similar dressing .
As far as the eyeglasses, I haven't done that, but if you don't have any anti-glare or photochromic coatings, I can't see why it wouldn't be worth a shot, especially if you have practice pair with the same type of lenses.
