Correcting edges

DETAILROOKIE

DETAILROOKIE

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Hello all,

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!

I finally caught up on the show Competition Ready and noticed Mike Philips telling the detailers to stay a thumb nail distance away from the edges. I understand the reason for staying away from the edges, but how do you correct the edges? By hand or machine at a lower speed? Should the edges be done first for easier blending or saved for last?

Thank you in advance for the advice! Have a great night everyone!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
My approach is to hit those with my 3" pads and my PC and carefully/slowly knock them out. Kind of the opposite for me with painting in that I usually "cut in" all the small areas last. I tape up the edges and panel seams while cutting down.

I pull my tape and finish the edges...gently!

I'd be interested to hear what Mike says if he sees this.
 
Paul A. said:
My approach is to hit those with my 3" pads and my PC and carefully/slowly knock them out. Kind of the opposite for me with painting in that I usually "cut in" all the small areas last. I tape up the edges and panel seams while cutting down.

I pull my tape and finish the edges...gently!

I'd be interested to hear what Mike says if he sees this.
Click to expand...

I do the same. Knock out larger areas first and then work through all the edges with a 3" or 2" tool to get edge to edge perfection.
 
I haven't seen any of the Competition Ready episodes, but based on Mike's articles are you sure the thumbnail distance he's referring to isn't specifically directed towards machine sanding? For correcting edges I tend to prefer using my GG6 with the Griot's 3" backing plate and the 3" boss microfiber pads. They do cut less than Meg's 3" microfiber cutting pads but the softer foam interface, the significantly longer microfiber pile height, and the center cooling chamber makes them ideal for safely polishing around edges.

If you are a professional and perform paint correction for a living, I personally recommend having a rotary polisher and 1", 2", & 3" backing plates as well as 3" & 6" extensions. Unless I'm sanding, the precision of a rotary allows me to polish around edges and closer to trim without the need for taping. If anything I said contradicts Mike, I personally would ignore my entire post.hah
 
mwoywod said:
I haven't seen any of the Competition Ready episodes, but based on Mike's articles are you sure the thumbnail distance he's referring to isn't specifically directed towards machine sanding? For correcting edges I tend to prefer using my GG6 with the Griot's 3" backing plate and the 3" boss microfiber pads. They do cut less than Meg's 3" microfiber cutting pads but the softer foam interface, the significantly longer microfiber pile height, and the center cooling chamber makes them ideal for safely polishing around edges.

If you are a professional and perform paint correction for a living, I personally recommend having a rotary polisher and 1", 2", & 3" backing plates as well as 3" & 6" extensions. Unless I'm sanding, the precision of a rotary allows me to polish around edges and closer to trim without the need for taping. If anything I said contradicts Mike, I personally would ignore my entire post.hah
Click to expand...
He mentioned it on a single stage blue Lamborghini where someone had burned through some of the edges, so he told the detailers to stay away from them while detailing.

And lmao at your last comment.

Thank you for your advice everyone!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Autogeekonline mobile app
 
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