Couple of questions

Regency

Regency

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Ok so I'm getting the PC 7424xp and have a couple of question about using it so here we go.

1. So in this pic how do I polish in between the emblem and molding?
R197920-2.jpg

2. How do I polish contured spots like this?
IMG_0896.jpg

^^^Pretend it's all painted black
3. How do I basically just get every inch of paint just confused on challenger hoods like in this thread http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-toxic-orange-challenger-topped-souveran.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ic-black-dodge-challenger-ext-int-engine.html
Second link is really confusing me
4. Am I allowed to tilt the porter cable at an angle to polish places like in the picture of the suburban? Or is that a huge no-no?
5. How many pounds of pressure should I use?
Thanks everyone in advance!
 
For the first picture, get a hand applicator and work with it best you can, you can also try cutting up a foam pad and using it by hand. Never tried it though. Some details even take off the emblems, but I wouldnt bother. Now to get in side the emblem you will have to take the emblem off. But that looks like dirt in those emblems, so purchase some soft detail brush for cleaning emblems.

For the second picture, use a smaller 3 inch pad. Also tape those stripes. You dont want to be polishing on those. The only time you polish on a race stripe or any stripe is if it is clear coated. Otherwise you could discolor it and or even wear it to the paint if done enough. So you really only have very little to do on the hood.

Also, might I add, the Griots 6 inch polisher is more powerful than the PC. Although the PC is more durable.

Do not tilt the porter cable. Thats a really big no no.

you put as many pounds of pressure you need. More correction ability the more you press. But I believe its 15-25lb of pressure. Then on the last few section passes, you lighten up. That will allow the polish to work less agressively and bring the paint to a high gloss.
 
1- this will require a small piece of cotton and the product you will use
rub gently to ensure no residue in the edges of the molding and if happened wash that place carfully to not put swirls
2- contoured spots need small pads or hand pad like ccs hand pad they are great
3-now this can be tricky either u use the same method in number one or just not go there at all
4- tilting the pcxp will cause the pad to stop spinning there fore u will not get the result u need and thats exactly what its made for to prevent spining when tilted
5-usually 10 - 15 pounds of pressure but make sure to have a pen line on the backing plate to insure that the pad is spining if it spins to fast (not enought pressure) if it doesnt spin at all (too much pressure) so adjust the pressure depending on the spining and it should spin normally

and sometimes when the pad has been used on alot of panels the spin become slower than before because the pad will be heavy and full of product - at this moment u may need to wash the pad and dry or switch to a new pad
 
A lot of great information already! :props:

Here's some great information by Mike Phillips that will help you.

Photo 1 - For those small areas between emblems I use a rotary polisher with 4" foam pads at about 1000 rpm. If not rotary is available then use one of the tools that God gave you; your finer wrapped with a towel and a bit of product.

Photo 2 - Protect those stripes! Decontaminating them later is a real pain so paper & tape them sooner than later. See those louvers to the right of the strip? Tape them, otherwise they'll be a huge pain to remove compounds and polishes that WILL get in every hard to reach section.

Since we're pretending the strips are non existent, allow the radius edge of the pad to climb the contour. It will rotate & oscillate enough to perform the task at hand. Once you come across this and see how the machine and pad operate it's not a big deal...
 
Alright thanks guys! Will the idea with cotton and product look the same as the rest of the car?
 
Last question so if I'm using the portle cable and a curve in the car comes up does the whole pad have to be in contact or can I position the PC so it polishes that curve? Let's say right here under the taillight could I not have the whole pad touching so I can polish it?
IMG_0323.jpg
 
As someone mentioned...the 3 inch pads allow you to get most of the tough spots. I think I suggested getting these when you asked about building your kit. Believe me...well worth the investment. 3 inch backing plate and pads...
 
DaveT435 said:
As someone mentioned...the 3 inch pads allow you to get most of the tough spots. I think I suggested getting these when you asked about building your kit. Believe me...well worth the investment. 3 inch backing plate and pads...
Click to expand...
After buying the the first stuff you quickly figure out you need more. The 3 or 4" pads are a must. Chances are not every inch of paint gets polished. After a polish and wax little small areas will never be noticed on daily drivers.
 
The smaller pads are already on the list just wondering about that stuff thanks guys
 
Yes, use a 3" backing plate with 3inch pads for that area under your tail light. On tricky spots, you can always hand polish.

You may want to try some MF cutting disks. They will be softer for those areas. You dont want to scratch your tail light. If not, make sure you tape it all up with at least 2 layers on the edge of the light.

Best of luck :)
 
Regency said:
Last question so if I'm using the portle cable and a curve in the car comes up does the whole pad have to be in contact or can I position the PC so it polishes that curve? Let's say right here under the taillight could I not have the whole pad touching so I can polish it?
Click to expand...

If the whole pad isn't touching the paint it isn't going to mess anything up... you just want to be a little extra careful. You will notice as you use the polisher that it has to be held flat in order to keep the pad rotating otherwise the clutch engages and you will have a pad that just jiggles like crazy without turning. You are asking good questions and I would say most of them will be answered when you polish out your first vehicle! :buffing:
 
GoldBl4d3 said:
Yes, use a 3" backing plate with 3inch pads for that area under your tail light. On tricky spots, you can always hand polish.

You may want to try some MF cutting disks. They will be softer for those areas. You dont want to scratch your tail light. If not, make sure you tape it all up with at least 2 layers on the edge of the light.

Best of luck :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the luck and answer and I looked it up but what's a cutting disk? And if I don't get that will the 3" be fine I'm going to tape everything up so it won't scratch but I'll also be buffing the tail's and headlights as well to get everything nice and show car quality
 
Regency said:
Thanks for the luck and answer and I looked it up but what's a cutting disk? And if I don't get that will the 3" be fine I'm going to tape everything up so it won't scratch but I'll also be buffing the tail's and headlights as well to get everything nice and show car quality
Click to expand...

So far in the terms of Microfiber disks. There are Cutting, and Polishing. Use the cutting for swirl removers and compunds. Use the polishing pad for the final polish and glazes.

I guess I would just stick with the lake country flat pads in 3 inch.
The flat surface allows more working surface, I have used the kind with the cells but I dont like them.

Buy these, Lake Country Hydo-Tech Foam Pads, hydrotech polishing pads, pads for water-based polishes, buffing pads

Also, another tip, when using a DA polisher like the porter cable or griots. Dont go over a 5 1/2 inch pad. I honestly use the 4 inch pads at the most. You want to keep the pad rotating. The more surface area (bigger pad) the harder it is to rotate that pad.
 
Regency said:
1. So in this pic how do I polish in between the emblem and molding?

R197920-2.jpg
Click to expand...


For getting inside the letters like you show above, I would use a brush like this,

1” Round Detailing Brush

1inchrounddetailingbrush.jpg



And either use plenty of car wash soap solution or even some APC or Amazing Roll-off.

Get it surgically clean by removing the road grime and dirt build up as best as you can. Then take and apply a cleaner/wax using whatever you can make work to get some wax into and onto the paint in these tight areas and then off the paint and out of the cracks and crevices.

I would put the most emphasis on the Big Picture, that's buffing out the major panels and for areas like these just focus on first getting them "washed" clean and then some type of one-step cleaner/wax to brighten, shine and protect the paint.



:)
 
Haha awesome mike just replied to my thread
 
Regency said:
Last question so if I'm using the portle cable and a curve in the car comes up does the whole pad have to be in contact or can I position the PC so it polishes that curve? Let's say right here under the taillight could I not have the whole pad touching so I can polish it?
Click to expand...


Hmmmmnnnnnn...

It would be hard to reach paint overspray in those areas... Wouldn't it? (Hint)

Hmmmmmnnnn... Somethin' doesn't seem right here. Awwww...but maybe it's just me. I did happen to watch a few videos last night of some guy using a blade on a car. He used the term Portal also, instead of Porter Cable.
 
My method would be tapping off the trim with painters tape before correction. I would then correct and then wax and polish the trim
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Heck lots of forum members replied and offered great advice and suggestions. :xyxthumbs:


My tip was the lazy man's way of getting the hard to reach areas clean...


:D
Click to expand...
Haha very true mike! thanks everyone!
Hoytman said:
Hmmmmnnnnnn...

It would be hard to reach paint overspray in those areas... Wouldn't it? (Hint)

Hmmmmmnnnn... Somethin' doesn't seem right here. Awwww...but maybe it's just me. I did happen to watch a few videos last night of some guy using a blade on a car. He used the term Portal also, instead of Porter Cable.
Click to expand...
Haha ooopps!
Bill1234 said:
My method would be tapping off the trim with painters tape before correction. I would then correct and then wax and polish the trim
Click to expand...
Alright thanks man
 
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