Cquartz and Ironx Question

Gungho_15

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I am about to polish my moms 2009 Blue Honda Fit. I am going to use the new chemical guys Optical Polish and Microfiber System.
I am also going to Cquartz after. I have devon washed, clayed, washed again. I am ready to start polishing but have one concern. Is it DEAD NECESSARY to use IronX first? I don't have any...lol. If I can get away with out it, that would be great, if not, I will go a different route. Hopefully I can get some definitive answers over night as I am starting the polish process tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks in advance!
 
I would recommend it so that you don't leave the bits of iron that clay can't reach however if you have spent the time to clay the surface extremely well then you can get along without it. Just know that you are likely leaving some iron particles level with the paint surface instead of releasing them. I mean when your going to coat a surface it's really best practice to remove all the contaminants completely. Your coating to keep them out so why lock anything it.

But as to your question CQuartz is still going to do it's job of protecting the surface from further contamination. After you have the surface polished be sure to remove absolutely all oils. Do you have any eraser? Apply CQuartz very thin but complete coverage. Do not buff it off until it wipes clean when you attempt to buff (should not be oily) I usually wait 30-45 minutes in my climate and by then there's barely anything to buff off.
 
Well I don't have IronX or the Eraser. I want to use the Cquartz so I guess I need to order both. Seeing that I have stripped, clayed and completelly prepped for polishing, what do u recommend I do while I wait the 2 weeks for the product to arrive? Seems pointless to do all the polishing then stary over! Guess that's my mistake by not having all the rewuired equipment, but then again, didn't realize it was all that important..lol
 
Use a glaze for the time being. When you're ready to use the Cquartz, wipe the car down a few times with IPA.
 
So if I gaze will I have to redo everything after I use the IronX? Be nice if Avi saw this and could chime in! I hate leaving the car unprotected for so long!
 
So if I gaze will I have to redo everything after I use the IronX? Be nice if Avi saw this and could chime in! I hate leaving the car unprotected for so long!

No.
As long as the paint is still in just corrected condition, and you don't marr it while using Iron-X. You can wipe the car down with a good surface cleaner after it's been washed following the Iron-X and then apply the Cquartz.
I personally like odorless mineral spirits as my final wipe down before using either Cquartz or OptiCoat 2.0
 
The best route would be as Corey has stated above, however you can definitely continue on without Iron X and Eraser. If you have done a thorough job of claying, do not worry about using IX (you will be fine). Remember it wasn't too long ago that we didn't even have the option to use IX. I have applied CQ MANY times without using IX or Eraser. I applied CQ to one of my personal vehicles (without using IX or Eraser) about 1.5 years ago, and it's still holding up very well. There are several ways to strip all of the polishing oils before you apply your coating. A great choice is to rewash; misting the paint with an APC prior to washing, you can also add about 1oz of Dawn into your normal wash solution. The surfactants in dawn will help to ensure that any oils not removed by the APC will be lifted and carried away during the wash/rinse process. This in conjunction with misting the paint with APC works VERY well. You can also substitute IPA (at 30% IPA/distilled water) for Eraser.
 
The best route would be as Corey has stated above, however you can definitely continue on without Iron X and Eraser. If you have done a thorough job of claying, do not worry about using IX (you will be fine). Remember it wasn't too long ago that we didn't even have the option to use IX. I have applied CQ MANY times without using IX or Eraser. I applied CQ to one of my personal vehicles (without using IX or Eraser) about 1.5 years ago, and it's still holding up very well. There are several ways to strip all of the polishing oils before you apply your coating. A great choice is to rewash; misting the paint with an APC prior to washing, you can also add about 1oz of Dawn into your normal wash solution. The surfactants in dawn will help to ensure that any oils not removed by the APC will be lifted and carried away during the wash/rinse process. This in conjunction with misting the paint with APC works VERY well. You can also substitute IPA (at 30% IPA/distilled water) for Eraser.

:props: :iagree: :iagree:

Tad has you covered, you can keep moving without it.

The only thing I'll add is that Eraser has a component that removes oil in tandem with the alcohol that is in the product. Alcohol by itself can loosen the oil and wipe it around but it may not remove it all.

If you follow Tads process he has accounted for the fact I mention above by stripping the oils with a dawn, etc wash.

Then he has used the IPA to remove any byproduct of the wash.
 
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