CQuartz and Opti-coat chemical resistance.

R

Rodinator

New member
Joined
Sep 2, 2016
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Hello everyone this is my first post here but I'm a long time lurker. I've learned a bunch and improved my ability from this site.

I work in a cement plant we have a coal fired kiln and pet coke around and unfortunately from time to time I get industrial fallout on my paint. Usually it's clinker dust and lime when it happens. I have had no issues removing it with vinager in a pump sprayer and pressure washing. I just know vinager strips wax and I reapply something every time I have to use it. I'm really interested in coating my 2014 Mustang Cquartz or Opticoat or something else. Does anyone know if in the event I used vinager on the coated car would it strip or damage the coating? Or recommend a coating that would perform the best for me.
 
I don't have that answer, but others will be along that will. My question is, are you diluting the vinegar or using at full strength? I would definitely use the weakest dilution that still gets the job done. In closing I would say if your car's clear coat handles it fine, it would probably not entirely strip the coating. Just my opinion.
 
Rodinator said:
Hello everyone this is my first post here but I'm a long time lurker. I've learned a bunch and improved my ability from this site.

I work in a cement plant we have a coal fired kiln and pet coke around and unfortunately from time to time I get industrial fallout on my paint. Usually it's clinker dust and lime when it happens. I have had no issues removing it with vinager in a pump sprayer and pressure washing. I just know vinager strips wax and I reapply something every time I have to use it. I'm really interested in coating my 2014 Mustang Cquartz or Opticoat or something else. Does anyone know if in the event I used vinager on the coated car would it strip or damage the coating? Or recommend a coating that would perform the best for me.
Click to expand...

For removal of the industrial fall out there are great products out there to remove all that. Iron X for one. Iron X will remove the industrial fall out on the paint. Then clay the car to remove any contaminates on top of the paint.

Seal as the last step.
 
2011 Kona Blue said:
Iron X will remove the industrial fall out on the paint.
Click to expand...

What's your basis for believing that Iron X will remove "clinker dust and lime"?

To answer the OP's question, Opti-Coat isn't available to the consumer, that would have to be applied by an authorized installer. However, I believe that both Gloss-Coat and CQuartz would be resistant to your vinegar washdown.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
What's your basis for believing that Iron X will remove "clinker dust and lime"?

To answer the OP's question, Opti-Coat isn't available to the consumer, that would have to be applied by an authorized installer. However, I believe that both Gloss-Coat and CQuartz would be resistant to your vinegar washdown.
Click to expand...

Yes sorry I miss spoke, Gloss-Coat is what I intended to say.

As for Iron X. I have not had any success in that product removing the clinker dust and lime dust. It doesn't have any effect on it.

As for the vinegar concentration. I pressure was the car or truck no soap just let the washer do the work it will remove most of the clinker dust which is kinda like sand but it sticks to the paint when it gets wet with dew or water. Then when the vehicle is wet I mist straight vinegar onto the surface, so it's hard to say the concentration but it's not a lot as I can do several applications of one gallon on my F150, meaning one gallon last me 3-4 washes. And strangely it only effects the flat surfaces I only have to apply to the flat hood, roof and Tahoe cover. As for claying, I do not clay but I use a surface prep mitt when I bucket was. I wash my vehicles quite a bit I've been reading on here about coatings and I really like the way they look on a car. I have a DA and all kinds of cool products and pads based off people's on Autogeek reviews. I did my first paint correction per say on my Mustang and it produced a result much better than I have ever achieved before. I haven't driven it to work since then. LOL that's why I'm curious about coatings.

Thanks for the replies.
 
Last edited:
Wonder if a professionally applied product that's not available to consumers would be worth be resistant to vinegar and or the contamination settling or actually sticking to the paint? That's another question I was curious if the Cquartz or Gloss-Coat would prevent the contaminants from sticking to the paint in the first place.
 
This may sound crazy,but if I worked in a area like that I would buy a $1500 car and not have to slave over your new mustang.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
What's your basis for believing that Iron X will remove "clinker dust and lime"?

To answer the OP's question, Opti-Coat isn't available to the consumer, that would have to be applied by an authorized installer. However, I believe that both Gloss-Coat and CQuartz would be resistant to your vinegar washdown.
Click to expand...

I apologize for making this comment about the clinker dust. When I heard industrial fall out I was thinking clinker dust was another term the OP was referring to rail dust, iron particles. That was my bad and sincerely apologize for the wrong information provided my me.

OP, sorry for the wrong information about the clinker dust. As far as the lime, I didn't mean too use Iron X to remove lime deposits. I don't even no what line deposits are. Lol. Again, sorry for my wrong comment. When you had said you get industrial fall out I was thinking you were referring to rail dust/iron deposits.

What is clinker dust?
 
2011 Kona Blue said:
What is clinker dust?
Click to expand...

In my world it is Portland cement dust. That would be one of the potential primary ingredients in the chemical reaction that makes concrete harden (there are a few other options).

Knowing that both clinker dust and lime are stong alkalines and calcium based, I would say that a coating such as CQuartz would not be a great choice. The chemistry in this type of coating is susceptible to strong alkalines and to hardness in water (aka calcium) which has been pointed out by Dr. G on several occasions.

I think a better option in this case would be optimum, but I don't know if gloss-coat has the same chemistry as the old OC that was claimed to be much better with alkaline resistance.
 
Audios S6 said:
In my world it is Portland cement dust. That would be one of the potential primary ingredients in the chemical reaction that makes concrete harden (there are a few other options).

Knowing that both clinker dust and lime are stong alkalines and calcium based, I would say that a coating such as CQuartz would not be a great choice. The chemistry in this type of coating is susceptible to strong alkalines and to hardness in water (aka calcium) which has been pointed out by Dr. G on several occasions.

I think a better option in this case would be optimum, but I don't know if gloss-coat has the same chemistry as the old OC that was claimed to be much better with alkaline resistance.
Click to expand...


Dr. G talking about CQuartz products....lets face it...there would be bias on his part. Just the way it is.

To the OP, a coating is definitely a great choice to protect your vehicle. I would personally recommend CQuartz UK topped with Reload if I were looking for an over the counter option.
 
GSKR said:
This may sound crazy,but if I worked in a area like that I would buy a $1500 car and not have to slave over your new mustang.
Click to expand...

I drive my2005 F150 mostly but it's still nice. Thing is it doesn't happen all the time maybe 2-3 times a year.
 
Audios S6 said:
In my world it is Portland cement dust. That would be one of the potential primary ingredients in the chemical reaction that makes concrete harden (there are a few other options).

Knowing that both clinker dust and lime are stong alkalines and calcium based, I would say that a coating such as CQuartz would not be a great choice. The chemistry in this type of coating is susceptible to strong alkalines and to hardness in water (aka calcium) which has been pointed out by Dr. G on several occasions.

I think a better option in this case would be optimum, but I don't know if gloss-coat has the same chemistry as the old OC that was claimed to be much better with alkaline resistance.
Click to expand...

That's really a great explanation. I know they say chemical resistant but that's not entirely true I suppose.
 
CarolinasFinestDetailing said:
Dr. G talking about CQuartz products....lets face it...there would be bias on his part. Just the way it is.

To the OP, a coating is definitely a great choice to protect your vehicle. I would personally recommend CQuartz UK topped with Reload if I were looking for an over the counter option.
Click to expand...

Bias perhaps, but I think Dr. G's intent was to point out the weakness of SiO2 based products and leverage it in marketing OC. I'd go so far as to say it would be foolish to make such a claim that wasn't credible when any SiO2 brand could refute it if the chemistry was bunk.

Do you put your suedes in an alkaline APC to prevent them from crystallizing as Carpro suggests?
 
I've dumped suedes in APC before at an almost 1 to 3 concentration and the suedes still crystallized. If you're talking about the suede towels you wrap around the applicator that is. I think that any coating frankly would work well for the OP as it would give better protection than any wax or sealant. Really, the choice is upto him. Washing his car often and the right way will do more for him than just a choice of a coating I believe. If he really wanted to get more AR about his vehicle, a bottle of Carpro Spots Remover would work well along with Reload.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top