CQuartz Comments

Sunstealer

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I debated back and forth between trying CQuartz and Opti-Coat for my wife's 2009 Infiniti G37. It was last sealed in October 2010 with Zaino AIO and Z-CS. It was boosted occasionally with Z-8 or OCW after a wash and was still beading a little, but not great. I finally decided to go with CQuartz since the application seemed a little more user friendly.

I washed the car Saturday night with a strong Dawn/APC combo to kill anything left on the paint. After rinsing, I sprayed it down with IronX and rubbed it in with a sponge. After dwelling for a few minutes, you could see the violet streaks where it was working on iron particles. The smell of IronX is really potent, it smells like a hair salon. I then completely rinsed it down. While still wet, I misted the paint with ONR at clay lube ratio and clayed the paint. I could tell the IronX pulled some of the contaminants out since I was able to blaze through claying the paint. I then dried the car and pulled it into the garage.

Sunday morning, I started out by polishing the paint with my new Griot's DA, Hydrotech Tangerine pads, and Wolfgang FG. I had read many horror stories about polishing Infiniti's scratch shield paint, but I had no problems. The scratch shield does seem to work, on this car at least. There were really no swirls that I could detect in the sun or under my lights. What I was mainly polishing were the leftover bug/bird bomb residue and small imperfections in the paint. After polishing, I did a wipe-down with IPA/Water in a 50:50 ratio as advised by CarPro.

Finally, time for the CQuartz. I used the sponge applicator wrapped with the suede microfiber. Again, the smell is pretty strong. I started with the horizontal surfaces and set my phone to buzz when 10 minutes was up since it was around 84 degrees. I used about 3 drops per 2x2 sized panel. I was able to get the hood, roof, trunk lid, and all glass in the 10 minutes. I then used a polish buffing microfiber to go back over what I had just done and buff off the residue. It buffs very easily, about the easiest LSP I have ever buffed. I continued around the rest of the car, it took about 45 minutes total. For the small areas, I used the cotton make-up applicators. They were fine on flat surfaces, but kept balling up on the wheels and tight areas.

After completely buffing, I pulled the car out into the sun to inspect and make sure I had not missed anywhere. The paint looked good/clean, but did not really pop like after a good sealant or wax. It also did not really feel "slick". I left it and went inside to rest. I went out about 3 hours later as the sun was starting down and noticed an immediate difference. The paint seemed to almost be glowing. The car is Athens Blue, a medium blue metallic that really pops when the sun hits it just right. It still did not feel slick, but definitely had the look. I would compare the look to what I got on it with a Zaino base topped with OCW.

I am looking forward to see how it lasts on this car and how well it beads and sheds dirt. I purchased Reload as well and will be adding it after I wash it next week. I used about 1/2 of the 30ml bottle that I purchased. I covered ever surface on the outside of the car that could be covered. I think I will go ahead and purchase Opti-Coat next and use it on my Audi when it is time to seal again.

I will post some pics later today.
 
Check out the tree reflected in the hood:

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Not a cloud in the sky:

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More reflections:

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Even more:

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Any spots you see in that final photo are actually on the driveway and being reflected back. The paint also has some orange peel, accounting for the slight distortion.
 
Had a bird bomb on the hood last night and used just straight water to blast it off. The hydrophobic effect of CQuartz is really pretty amazing. The individual droplets quickly merge and just rush off the paint. I have used lots of sealants and waxes, but have never seen something shed water this fast. I even had my wife come outside to see it. If you search for "cquartz beading" on YouTube, you will see a video that shows it .. not my car, but it looked exactly like the video.
 
The car looks great. I've always wondered how a sealant or something like opti-coat/cquartz would work on scratch shield paint. I mean you can do it, but the paint is in a constant state of movement. So there would be gaps in the protection. For instance, the manual says to leave in the sun and the scratches will fill in. Meaning heat will soften the paint and make it shift. main reason why a rotary doesn't work to well on it since it causes a lot of heat.
 
Great results!

Your method is quite simple and straight forward! I like that! :xyxthumbs:

Now the Infiniti really has a scratch shield!! :xyxthumbs:
 
Great looking car really like the color. One thing about these coatings they are not slick like a good sealant or wax
 
Thanks for your input. I am still considering this for my daily driver.
 
The car looks great. I've always wondered how a sealant or something like opti-coat/cquartz would work on scratch shield paint. I mean you can do it, but the paint is in a constant state of movement. So there would be gaps in the protection. For instance, the manual says to leave in the sun and the scratches will fill in. Meaning heat will soften the paint and make it shift. main reason why a rotary doesn't work to well on it since it causes a lot of heat.

Dr. G at Optimum said that Opti-Coat would basically seal the scratch shield clear coat and it would no longer be able to fill in the scratches. I am not sure if CQuartz will have the same effect though since it uses different technology from what I have been able to gather.
 
Only 10 minutes cure time before buffing off? I was under the impression that the product worked best if left on for 1 hour before buffing off.
 
I hope yours turns out better than mine regarding waterspots. I have spent 5 hours polishing off my C.Quartz and going back to my faithful Megs #20 polymer sealant. I had very bad spotting that took M205 with my PC to remove. So dont follow the directions that come with the CQ if that makes sense. About rinsing with just water i mean.
 
Only 10 minutes cure time before buffing off? I was under the impression that the product worked best if left on for 1 hour before buffing off.

Avi at CarPro said 10-15 minutes if the temperature is over 80 degrees, so that is what I went by. It was around 86 the day I sealed it. It didn't smear at all, it wiped off clean.
 
Avi at CarPro said 10-15 minutes if the temperature is over 80 degrees, so that is what I went by. It was around 86 the day I sealed it. It didn't smear at all, it wiped off clean.

Good to know. After re-reading the instructions on my bag of CQ it does say to remove after 10 min. at 20-30 C. It then goes on to say to let dry for 1 hour at temps of 25 C. and avoid washing for 12 hours.

Is the suggested 1 hour dry time what is recommended before applying a second coat, or Reload?
 
I assume that is the cure time after it is buffed off. I left mine in the garage for a couple of hours before pulling it out. I only did one coat, so I am not sure about how long between coats. I plan on doing Reload after my first wash this weekend.
 
I assume that is the cure time after it is buffed off. I left mine in the garage for a couple of hours before pulling it out. I only did one coat, so I am not sure about how long between coats. I plan on doing Reload after my first wash this weekend.

Maybe Avi can chime in here. If the product is cured or dry in one hour then why the recommendation to wait 12 hours before washing?

You had also mentioned the make up pads balling up when applying to the wheels. I wonder how the supplied suede MF towels would work if you used them without wrapping them around the foam block?
 
Paul, they work without the foam block but it's not in the same ballpark. Used with the foam block it's really easy. This is the only way I apply it now.

As far as how long to wait before buffing. I had great results with the 10-15 minute wait time over 80 degrees. I did apply to one area and didn't wait quite that long. The CQ protection was removed by not waiting long enough in that area. Tad reported that he has been waiting a full hour and has excellent results waiting that long before buffing off. Based on his report I switched to one hour as well. I just tried that method last weekend and it worked great. Just be sure to keep the area shaded throughout until buffed off.
 
Only 10 minutes cure time before buffing off? I was under the impression that the product worked best if left on for 1 hour before buffing off.
The cure time vary on room temp. and the humidity..
10 min is for real hot day , above 30 deg.C. (do the F...)
i would say that average 20 min waiting for average temp (20~25) will be the best.

Good to know. After re-reading the instructions on my bag of CQ it does say to remove after 10 min. at 20-30 C. It then goes on to say to let dry for 1 hour at temps of 25 C. and avoid washing for 12 hours.

Is the suggested 1 hour dry time what is recommended before applying a second coat, or Reload?
yes, you better let the coat work and dry.. before applying another coat on it..

Maybe Avi can chime in here. If the product is cured or dry in one hour then why the recommendation to wait 12 hours before washing?well, after 1 hour , the "top layer" of the coat has dried... its better to let the full cure happen before any washing. its again depend on the environment temp.

You had also mentioned the make up pads balling up when applying to the wheels. I wonder how the supplied suede MF towels would work if you used them without wrapping them around the foam block?the suede's MF will work fine without the applicator as well
 
The cure time vary on room temp. and the humidity..
10 min is for real hot day , above 30 deg.C. (do the F...)
i would say that average 20 min waiting for average temp (20~25) will be the best.

yes, you better let the coat work and dry.. before applying another coat on it..


Avi, thank you for taking the time to reply. Your activity on this forum is greatly appreciated. I am looking forward to using my CQ and Reload in a few weeks when I am on vacation.
 
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