Cquartz Dlux on paint?

itsgn

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Hi Everyone!

Has anyone ever tested applying Dlux (instead of regular CQ or CQUK) onto paint? What were the results? What are the cons?

My understanding is that CarPro recommends Dlux for trims, but not for paint. But why is that? Is it only because it might not last that long or gives less shine, because of the lower silica content? Or does it actually make paint look somehow worse (like random hazing, or who knows what), or has even trouble bonding to it?

Any comments appreciated.
 
If you can put Dlux on painted wheels, I don't see why you couldn't put it on paint. I personally would not do it, but you can try it and let us know how it goes.
 
why not just use the other offerings by them that are intended for paint?

carpro-cquartz-30-ml-kit-37.gif

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You can use it on paint. However it will likely not last as long. The contact angle is not defined so I️ would imagine it’s closer to 90 degrees

You apply it let it sit for 1-10 mins depending on temp humidity etc. then wipe off in a circular motion until clear

Would use ti02 or UK on painted surfaces if it was myself. Where they were engineered to be used


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You apply it let it sit for 1-10 mins depending on temp humidity etc. then wipe off in a circular motion until clear



My experience with Dlux is not the same as yours. If I let Dlux sit for 1-10 mins and then wipe off in a circular motion, I would have a mess on my hands. Wiping Dlux while is flashing (curing) will start to smear and get sticky.
 
Just did my wheels this way just now. Applied let sit for 5-6 mins. Wipe off till clear done

Same instructions that Corey had on his site


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Thanks for all the answers. The reason I'm researching this issue is, because Dlux is obviously cheaper, and I plan to re-polish the cars I'm applying it to in a year or less anyway. So, if it can deliver very similar results in hydrophobicity, gloss and protection, then it makes no sense to use a more costly CQuartz product, regardless of the latter being capable of lasting longer. A few percent more shine might not be worth double price for most uses or customers either.
 
If you were planning to polish why not just use a cheap spray wax and apply it after every wash instead of going good down the coating route at all?
 
If you were planning to polish why not just use a cheap spray wax and apply it after every wash instead of going good down the coating route at all?
Because waxes

1. break down relatively fast, and need to be reapplied at regular intervals (to keep up the shine, practically on a weekly or at least on a monthly basis), which over the course of a year require far more labor than a single application of a ceramic coating
2. definitively do not expose "self-cleaning" properties anywhere similar to truly "ceramic" coatings (which probably has to do with water contact angles)
3. do not provide microns thick sacrificial layers to "cushion" against physical impact damages, like light scratches

In my experience only ceramic coatings provide a truly lasting top class gloss without the need of regular (weekly or monthly) reapplication, and a protective layer that diminishes the need for and/or even completely negate the adverse effects of frequent paint corrections.
 
...its not recommend for paint,
i will not be responsible for that.
Well, I'm obviously aware the manufacturer's recommendation (as already made clear in my original post), but don't necessarily think of them as carved in stone - because of course manufacturers will always advise you to buy their most expensive products, whenever possible and feasible.

That's why I was specifically asking whether somebody had actual experience with using said product differently than recommended, which would either prove or disprove that manufacturer's recommendation are justified, and not just an attempt to squeeze more money out of their customers.

However, because everybody seems to fall back on referring to manufacturer's recommendation, it seems like nobody has tried that yet. So, we don't have a definitive answer on this question.

Anyway, thanks for the comments, everybody.
 
It’s only 10 bucks more for a bottle here in the US. It’s not double the price.

Try it out and give us some reviews and results

Like I said it can be but I️ really don’t think the contact angle will be as good as well as some other protection features. Heck maybe they would be better. There has gotta be some reason they don’t say use it on the actual body paint on a large surface. ? Got me though


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It’s only 10 bucks more for a bottle here in the US. It’s not double the price.

I mentioned the same thing to the op over on the carpro forum. Apparently buying it through ebay which may or may not be a wise choice.
 
Well, I'm obviously aware the manufacturer's recommendation (as already made clear in my original post), but don't necessarily think of them as carved in stone - because of course manufacturers will always advise you to buy their most expensive products, whenever possible and feasible.

That's why I was specifically asking whether somebody had actual experience with using said product differently than recommended, which would either prove or disprove that manufacturer's recommendation are justified, and not just an attempt to squeeze more money out of their customers.

However, because everybody seems to fall back on referring to manufacturer's recommendation, it seems like nobody has tried that yet. So, we don't have a definitive answer on this question.

Anyway, thanks for the comments, everybody.
Did you even read the thread?
{More DLux information than you
can shake a stick at.}

•I especially liked the “Gloss/Sheen”
discussion contained therein.



Bob
 
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