CQuartz vs CQUK?

Everyone - thank you so much! I got all the help I was hoping for, and much, much more!

Everybody that I spoke with and everybody here pretty much agreed CQUK was better, so I bought 30ml of CQUK :D

Again, thank you all very much!
 
Can't wait to see the results :dblthumb2:
 
Hello

What proccess is it if you want to coat again with cquk but without polishing the car? Lets assume you had cquk for a year on your car?

Just to wash it and then cquk?
 
reeloe said:
Hello

What proccess is it if you want to coat again with cquk but without polishing the car? Lets assume you had cquk for a year on your car?

Just to wash it and then cquk?
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It is not possible to coat again without polishing unless the car is kept in a clean room all year round without driven :D
Cheers!
 
are you sure?

To be able to coat the car have to be clean, really clean. Is the polish only way to get it "clean" ?
 
It is generally recommended to polish so as to lightly roughen the coating so the new layer can bond properly.

Moreover, if you've put anything on top of it, the only way to be sure it's gone is to polish. Wax and grease removers are not always effective.

On a side note, in the past optimum has said that prior to painting, their coating does not need to be removed, but does need to be prepped with a scuff pad for proper adhesion of paints.
 
But let assume that the car was only washed with reset shampoo and topped with reload.

Then technically after deagresing and washing, the new coat on the old cquk will work?

And of course, its only if you are more interested in protecting the car then its shine.
 
reeloe said:
But let assume that the car was only washed with reset shampoo and topped with reload.

Then technically after deagresing and washing, the new coat on the old cquk will work?

And of course, its only if you are more interested in protecting the car then its shine.
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As others have said: Ideally you would do at least a light polish to prep.

But..... If you are washing with Reset and using Reload you could "top up" CQ/CQUK with another layer after a good wash and Decon. I would wash with Reset or IronX soap and then use IronX and TarX . Then do at least 1or2 wipedowns with eraser. Then you would have a clean surface to apply another layer.

 
TroyScherer said:
As others have said: Ideally you would do at least a light polish to prep.

But..... If you are washing with Reset and using Reload you could "top up" CQ/CQUK with another layer after a good wash and Decon. I would wash with Reset or IronX soap and then use IronX and TarX . Then do at least 1or2 wipedowns with eraser. Then you would have a clean surface to apply another layer.
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Troy, Would a paint cleanser from somebody like Pinnacle or DP work?

I would've maybe thought so, in that a hand application with one of these would maybe clean off any toppers (reload-etc) without adversely affecting a previous laid down coating since there's no abrasives?
 
TroyScherer said:

As others have said: Ideally you would do at least a light polish to prep.

But..... If you are washing with Reset and using Reload you could "top up" CQ/CQUK with another layer after a good wash and Decon. I would wash with Reset or IronX soap and then use IronX and TarX . Then do at least 1or2 wipedowns with eraser. Then you would have a clean surface to apply another layer.

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Im also asking because a layer with previous 2 coats and then top up with 2coats again would protect more?, and also you save your car paint from polishing?

4coats is better then 2?
 
MarkD51 said:
Troy, Would a paint cleanser from somebody like Pinnacle or DP work?

I would've maybe thought so, in that a hand application with one of these would maybe clean off any toppers (reload-etc) without adversely affecting a previous laid down coating since there's no abrasives?
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Actually I think Pinnacle coating paint cleaner would be great. This is actually what I did when I applied a final layer of CQUK over my 6 month old original application. I had talked with Corey about this. But I made sure to use multiple Eraser wipe-downs to ensure proper bonding.




reeloe said:
Im also asking because a layer with previous 2 coats and then top up with 2coats again would protect more?, and also you save your car paint from polishing?

4coats is better then 2?
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Yes and no.

Additional layers "might" add protection. But you are limited to the durability of the original application and its bond to your paint. It has yet to be shown if a top-up later adds anything to the durability. When I did my "top-up" application is was to use up the rest of my CQUK and test this theory instead of just tossing it due to expiration.
 

Yes and no.

Additional layers "might" add protection. But you are limited to the durability of the original application and its bond to your paint. It has yet to be shown if a top-up later adds anything to the durability. When I did my "top-up" application is was to use up the rest of my CQUK and test this theory instead of just tossing it due to expiration.
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But then if the first coat is protected well it will bond longer and more durable. The second, third and 4 coat will protect each other. The reason why life-span is up to 2 years must be because it tears down, and it would be harder to tear down 4 coats.

What about this scenario, if you coat the car with only one coat but never use your car, and have it inside , you never drive. The coat would be there even after 5-10 years, or do i have wrong?


Anyway, i just want to have dialog about this. Dont take my words wrong. Maybe in theory this can be true, but in practical the result would be totally other. We cant know that.
 

^ I suggest trying and reporting back then.


I can only talk about what I know and have experience with using CQ, CQUK, and other coatings. If you want real chemistry answers you are better of asking the Mgft directly for their opinion and suggestion.

I just know at a certain point in waxes and many other sealants as well as coatings there is a law of diminishing returns. Basicly at a point you can't "add" any more protection due to chemistry and how things work.

 
I know this topic is a bit old, but wanted to hear from people using the cquk product. I have been normally using polymer sealants, Wolfgang DGS 3.0 being my favorite so far. I apply the sealant to all painted surfaces, metal, glass, and headlights. I was looking at the website for cquk and it mentions paint, metal, headlights and "more" but didn't specifically mention glass. Have you guys been applying it to the glass also? I have the Wolfgang ceramic coating I'm going to be applying to my truck, but detail my buddy's trucks and he bought the cquk product and wants to use that.
 
AuroraDetailing said:
I know this topic is a bit old, but wanted to hear from people using the cquk product. I have been normally using polymer sealants, Wolfgang DGS 3.0 being my favorite so far. I apply the sealant to all painted surfaces, metal, glass, and headlights. I was looking at the website for cquk and it mentions paint, metal, headlights and "more" but didn't specifically mention glass. Have you guys been applying it to the glass also? I have the Wolfgang ceramic coating I'm going to be applying to my truck, but detail my buddy's trucks and he bought the cquk product and wants to use that.
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I would not suggest using CQUK or even Wolfgang ceramic coating on windshield glass. The wipers will remove it and create some really odd "lines" where it still remains.

I don't use CQ or CQUK on glass. CarPro makes a glass specific coating. FlyBy30 and Forte.

 
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