CR Spotless Question

bigaizsosexy

bigaizsosexy

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Hi All,

I am new to using the CR Spotless, but for the past month or two I've loved every minute of it!!! The questions I have are pretty straight forward.

- After each use, do you have to drain the water from the canisters, or is it ok to leave it in there for a sometime?? Will it eat up the resin if the water sits in there, or it has to pass through the resin to start depleting it?

-Where is the best place (cost effective) to purchase DI resin in bulk??

I look forward to the answers!

Thanks,
Andy
 
I do not drain the water. Best price on resin is Costco.com
 
I've never heard a lot of talk about the CR spotless system... can you really tell a big enough difference to merit spending the money? What do you like most about it, and if you let the water dry on the car in the sun, some spots still have to be made, right? Thanks
 
Dynamic_Detailing said:
if you let the water dry on the car in the sun, some spots still have to be made, right? Thanks
Click to expand...

No, that's not right. As long as your resin is still good, and you keep the flow rate within the capability of the device (use the included restrictor), it will completely deionize the water and the water will dry spot free, in theory. Where theory meets reality is that when you rinse your car, you will wash dirt and soap out of crevices, and they likely will leave residue on your car. So you have to rinse very carefully/ thoroughly to really get the "spot-free drying" effect. However, you won't have to worry about any etched water spots.

Ultimately, for me, after using the CR for a couple of years, I decided it was a better option to get my soft water from inside plumbed to my outside faucet.
 
bigaizsosexy said:
After each use, do you have to drain the water from the canisters, or is it ok to leave it in there for a sometime?? Will it eat up the resin if the water sits in there, or it has to pass through the resin to start depleting it?
Click to expand...

The water has only a finite amount of minerals so, it won't "eat" up the resin. The reason they suggest draining it is so you don't get anything growing in there during storage. As long as you are going to use it again within a few weeks you should be fine.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
The water has only a finite amount of minerals so, it won't "eat" up the resin. The reason they suggest draining it is so you don't get anything growing in there during storage. As long as you are going to use it again within a few weeks you should be fine.
Click to expand...



:iagree:. I like mine but would rather switch to a soft water set up.
 
No, no need to drain it except in cases of long term storage. Here are the 2 best places I've found for purchasing bulk resin. The price is for 1 cubic foot. 1 cubic foot of resin is equal to 6 complete refills for the DIC/W-10 (smaller unit) or 3 complete refills for the DIC/W-20 (larger unit). I've purchased it from both places, as well as from CR Spotless directly, and Costco. This resin seems to be every bit as good as the other mentioned places, and much more cost efficient.

IONPLUS MB-30 Mixed Bed DI Resin and IonPlus MB30 MixedBed Deionization Resin

Windows101 LLC
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Ultimately, for me, after using the CR for a couple of years, I decided it was a better option to get my soft water from inside plumbed to my outside faucet.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot, I use the soft water from my home when detailing at my house, worked really well.

Here's a question... does anyone know what can be added to wash shampoo, or what wash shampoo is already formulated to eliminate spotting and balance the ph?
 
I have the big system I bought from Costco also. I finish with a rinse of this water but still do it in the garage out of the sun. In the sun if you wash with soap it will dry and leave residue behind either way. Its nice using this water as a final step then going to the leaf blower. It wont dry and leave spots anywhere so you dont have to rush to get all the water off the paint.

Not sure its all that necessary but I bought it and it seems to keep the paint cleaner and there are no more spots on my cars.
 
One thing that I have found makes the CR canisters last a lot longer is using a pre filter filled with the same resin. It's about a fifth the size of the CR canisters and I replace it every other wash.
Plus, the only thing I use my filtered water for is the final rinse. I am getting appx. 20+ washes on a set of CR resins.
 
I seem to be getting a lot more on my resin. Either that or the PPM sensor doesnt work. It still reads 0 after about 12 uses so my local water must not be as bad as I thought.
 
Thanks for the information. Also, I appreciate the links as well. I love my CR, since not having to dry the car properly I have cut off some detailing time :)
 
So I tested my CR yesterday and I was left with water spots using it in direct sunlight on black paint. I only did this to a front fender and a portion of the hood to test it.

I realized my flow of water might be too high so I slowed it down and tested again. This time I wouldnt say it spotted but it did leave behind some residue from the water spots. On the other hand the paint was super hot and after 10 mins of letting it sit just 1 wipe of the towel took them off. I would say this unit still needs to be used in a way that you have to wipe dry if used in direct light but in terms of water spotting its much better then straight water. If straight water were used I would have to clay bar to remove spots.

I guess this is one of those things that seems worth the money but its not very easy to see a huge difference. I still wash and dry the cars in the garage out of the light so I am not so sure it matters either with or with out the CR. I leaf blow the car dry then use my QD to shine up the paint when done.

How do you guys use the CR?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
The reason they suggest draining it is so you don't get anything growing in there during storage.
Click to expand...


Correct. Chuck at CR Spotless Water Filtrations Systems recommend draining the filter cartridges if you're not going to use the system for a at least a month to avoid having any algae grow which can hinder the performance of the filter media.

It's about standing water...



:)
 
Is there a way I can accurately check how hard my water is? I used one of those dipstick tests, but the results are a little vague. According to the dipstick test, my water is "soft" to just below hard.
Also, if a set-up uses salt (NaCl) to replace calcium carbonate to make softer water, wouldnt the TDS be the same, just "saltier" with less calcium?
Or, can the TDS meters actually show when resin needs to be replaced in these systems?
 
Mine came with a meter on it but it still reads 0. I think it's when it reads above 20 I am supposed to replace it. I am not sure it works because it still reads 0 after about 12 uses or so.
 
swanicyouth said:
Is there a way I can accurately check how hard my water is? I used one of those dipstick tests, but the results are a little vague. According to the dipstick test, my water is "soft" to just below hard.
Also, if a set-up uses salt (NaCl) to replace calcium carbonate to make softer water, wouldn't the TDS be the same, just "saltier" with less calcium?
Or, can the TDS meters actually show when resin needs to be replaced in these systems?
Click to expand...

If you have a CR system with a meter just pop out the cartridges and run non filtered water through the system. Meter will read TDS of unfiltered water. Also a good way to double check if your meter is working correctly. Meter will also read 0.00 for about 90% of the resin's life then rapidly approach 20!
 
My water here in Central New Jersey only reads between 50-70 PPM'S, so I am good for between 600-1000 gallons of Spotless water!!!!

I've never had an issue with the CR leaving spots even in direct sunlight, so you might want to purge your system before using it.
 
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