CR Spotless Question

[BMWNoob]

So I tested my CR yesterday and I was left with water spots using it in direct sunlight on black paint. I only did this to a front fender and a portion of the hood to test it.

I realized my flow of water might be too high so I slowed it down and tested again. This time I wouldnt say it spotted but it did leave behind some residue from the water spots. On the other hand the paint was super hot and after 10 mins of letting it sit just 1 wipe of the towel took them off. I would say this unit still needs to be used in a way that you have to wipe dry if used in direct light but in terms of water spotting its much better then straight water. If straight water were used I would have to clay bar to remove spots.

I guess this is one of those things that seems worth the money but its not very easy to see a huge difference. I still wash and dry the cars in the garage out of the light so I am not so sure it matters either with or with out the CR. I leaf blow the car dry then use my QD to shine up the paint when done.

How do you guys use the CR?

I think drying outside will almost always have this when allowing to dry outside as the water drops are still picking up airborne contaminants as they dry. I just ordered a CR system and from the extensive reading I've done, assuming your flow rate isn't too high for the water hardness

From CR Spotless FAQ about still having spots

The primary causal factor is letting the work surface dry outdoors when ‘stuff’ is floating in the air and lands on the drying water causing a ‘dust ring’. Airborne pollen and neighbors with yard blowers are the bane of *spotless* existence so keep an eye (and ear!) out for these contaminant sources.

Another causal factor could be that the output hose you’re using is old…and probably a 50 footer. Over time, hoses will absorb minerals and the first thing deionized water wants to do is collect ’em up and (unfortunately) carry them out the business end of the hose and onto your work surface. As long as your meter is reading 0, the only thing coming out the business end of the system is hydrogen & oxygen so be sure you’re not donating any unnecessary minerals to your spot-free water. A new hose should solve the problem.

Another reason may be that you’re rinsing away pockets of soapy water and some of that is getting bounced onto areas you’ve already rinsed off. Don’t use more water than you have to, but it is necessary to remove all soapy and/or ‘dirty’ water to enjoy the *spot-free* capability we designed into the system.

 

[gspam1]

I think drying outside will almost always have this when allowing to dry outside as the water drops are still picking up airborne contaminants as they dry. I just ordered a CR system and from the extensive reading I've done, assuming your flow rate isn't too high for the water hardness

From CR Spotless FAQ about still having spots

I have dedicated inlet and outlet hoses, along with a spray nozzle for my CR system. Seems to work well.

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[2black1s]

Is there a way I can accurately check how hard my water is? I used one of those dipstick tests, but the results are a little vague. According to the dipstick test, my water is "soft" to just below hard.
Also, if a set-up uses salt (NaCl) to replace calcium carbonate to make softer water, wouldnt the TDS be the same, just "saltier" with less calcium?
Or, can the TDS meters actually show when resin needs to be replaced in these systems?

You can buy a cheap pocket size TDS meter for about $20. Search online.

And yes, the TDS of "salt softened" water is the same as the pre-softened water. The difference is the residuals left behind are softer, less evident, and wipe away very easily.