Critique my technique

[honda99ex]

Hi all. Newbie here. Been reading a ton of info on the site.

Background - I have a work SUV that has been neglected. Not washed very frequently in the past 3 years. Lives a tough life: used 24/7 - driving in hard pack/dirt roads 50-75% of the time, ton of annual miles. (Side note - I always chuckle when I watch the videos and they say "this car is filthy". Picture commercial grime that you can write WASH ME into, that's what my truck looks like). The truck is lucky if it stays clean 8 hours.... yes hours. Also heavily populated bird population so poop a problem. Especially since it gets burned in from the heat. Color is a metallic grey. I don't have a garage but access to hose generally available. Not really looking for show car level just advice on how to get most protection in the form of being able to rinse most of the filth away easily. I try to do a plain water rinse every couple of days to knock the heavy grime off.

I bought the autogeek foam gun here. Put it on the 1:10 setting. In the quart container I put 3+ ounces soap and 32 ounces water making around a 1:11 dilution. My soap calls for 1 ounce to 128 ounce. Fire it up and it suds like crazy and I'm giggling like a school girl. Beautiful right? literally 45 secs later the entire quart is used up! Am I doing something wrong? I literally didn't finish the entire truck!!! 16 year old boys last longer!!! What gives?

So I foamed like 3 quarters of the car and started a GDWM wash but the truck needs to be clayed bad so halfway through I changed to full on ONRWW rinseless. The surface was just tugging on the Microfiber so bad and the ONRWW was definitely better though it was still rough. I was actually really surprised at how effective ONRWW cleaned on the painted surfaces. I was planning on just quick detailing in between washes hopefully now every 2-3 weeks now that I found ONRWW. Are there issues with blending? With how life comes at me (kid, clients, weather, etc) I might only be able to do two panels per day.... Or more specifically, the bottoms of the doors, rear quarter panel and lifegate take the most dirt so can I just hit half a panel?

Also the ONRWW didn't really do a great job on the pebbled plastics of running board and trim. Can I rub with a brush on those or just use another product?

I bought microfiber clothes but I went for quantity over quality. I didn't realize how thin the ones I got were. But I need to do the GDWM so I don't re-dunk and was wondering what a good medium quality THICKER microfiber towel would be that I can buy in bulk but be cost effective? Or does it not matter how thick it is? It took me 16 towels to do the truck. It was filthy.

Finally I plan on claying at some point. Never clayed before. Thinking Pinnicle POLY clay. Not sure I will polish etc unless there is some easy way to go about it. The paint already needs some correction but I'm trying to keep costs in line. It is a work truck after all. The look doesn't matter as much as the protection if that makes sense. I wanted recs on a sealant. I was reading up on rejex but then it seems that curing has a lot to do with it's effectiveness and without ideal conditions ever I don't want to chance it. Meguairs NXT Tech Wax 2.0 seems like a candidate. I need simple.

Thanks
AC

 

[invested_detailing]

If you can swing it invest in some type of Iron X product to remove any iron particles bonded to the paint. Also as far as polish and waxing goes I would look into an all in one cleaner wax. That will give a little polish action as well as a layer of wax to make cleaning the SUV easier next time. Steps would be as follows.

1. Iron X type product to chemically decontaminate the paint

2. Foam and wash the vehicle using the aggressive method

3. Clay the car

4. Apply and remove the cleaner wax

Once the vehicle is decontaminated and has a coat of wax on it maintenance washes should take no time at all.

 

[Buster906]

Be sure to shake up the soap and water before you begin to foam wash

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[honda99ex]

Be sure to shake up the soap and water before you begin to foam wash

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I did but then I had to wait for the bubbles to recede... I guess next time I have to pre prep the solution? Still it was gone so quickly. Is that normal? Should I make like 3 quarts worth in advance so I can refill the foam gun?

 

[Buster906]

I did but then I had to wait for the bubbles to recede... I guess next time I have to pre prep the solution? Still it was gone so quickly. Is that normal? Should I make like 3 quarts worth in advance so I can refill the foam gun?

What brand of soap are you using? I have ONR, MEGUIARS WASH PLUS, CG WASH. OH, and I use distilled water in my foam gun

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[honda99ex]

What brand of soap are you using? I have ONR, MEGUIARS WASH PLUS, CG WASH. OH, and I use distilled water in my foam gun

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I just experimented with old Eagle One Nano Wash that I had. I could try with the BlackFire Sample that came with it.
It came out nice and foamy, just was short lived. (As in the contents in the quart jug were used up quickly which then started to just spout water)

I have the pin set as on this page
Autogeek Quart Foamaster Foam Gun FREE BONUS

The thing I did different was I put 3 oz and then i filled the quart container. Again due to my soap stating use at 1oz/1gallon.
On that page it put 2 oz but only another 6-8oz water. Is that enough water?
How long should the foam last? Help...


I use distilled on the quick detail spray I used but not in the foam gun.

 

[Buster906]

I recommend going to a local store and get a bottle of Meguiars soap. 10 dollars depending on where you go. Add distilled water and see what happens. Is there a soap line and water line on the foam gun tank?

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[honda99ex]

I recommend going to a local store and get a bottle of Meguiars soap. 10 dollars depending on where you go. Add distilled water and see what happens. Is there a soap line and water line on the foam gun tank?

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It is the Autogwek gun and there are no markings on for soap or water line....

So I went internet searching and for a Gilmor gun which i think this is, it was recommended that I back off to the middle setting and then for a soap with a 1oz/1 gallon the mix in the quart should be 8oz soap/24 oz distilled water. I'll try that to see if it helps....

 

[Buster906]

I have a CG foam gun with markings. I use setting 3 and can 3 quarters of my Ram

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[honda99ex]

If you can swing it invest in some type of Iron X product to remove any iron particles bonded to the paint. Also as far as polish and waxing goes I would look into an all in one cleaner wax. That will give a little polish action as well as a layer of wax to make cleaning the SUV easier next time. Steps would be as follows.

1. Iron X type product to chemically decontaminate the paint

2. Foam and wash the vehicle using the aggressive method

3. Clay the car

4. Apply and remove the cleaner wax

Once the vehicle is decontaminated and has a coat of wax on it maintenance washes should take no time at all.

I plan on following your method outlined except at

3. I was going to try a Nanoskin - medium then fine.... Thoughts on this vs. claying?

4. Do you think I can do something like Optimum GPS? I only have my hands, no equipment. I want something that works simply (on/off easily and not subject to heavy cure times/ideal conditions needed). Or should I go directly to a sealant? Once I get to the car to a cleaner state then I can do more maintenance more frequently to avoid heavy work each time...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Just to note, the Meguiar's Gold Glass Car Wash doesn't foam very well, lots of uniform tiny bubbles.

I remember NXT car wash did create lots of long lasting suds as a normal car wash but I've never used it in a foam gun.

The best soap I've used so far is the McKee's Xtreme Car Wash Shampoo which of course used to be the DP line.


Also, if you haven't already, read my article on using a foam gun. It has LOTS of pictures and a WARNING so you don't have to get a fender painted. $$$$$


How to use a foam gun by Mike Phillips

VERY IMPORTANT

Now this is very important. That's why I made all the letters of the heading for this section in all capital letters.

The Pistol Grip Sprayer is attached to the Foam Mixing Head via a spring loaded quick-release coupling. The coupling on the sprayer is the female side and the coupling on the Foam Mixing Head is the male side.

To attach the sprayer, use two fingers like I show in the picture below to pull back the exterior plastic case around the spring loaded quick-release.

Get the idea?

Lots of pictures showing you how to get the most out of your foam gun and avoid getting a fender re-painted.

 

[fly07sti]

From what I gather is you just want some info as to make washing easier/quicker and some quality protection. I recommend you get a mitt like the Nanoskin and a can of Finish Kare hi temp. The Nanoskin will last a lot longer than clay and is a much faster process. This will give you that smooth paint feeling and your towels won't feel grabbing against the paint. Then put a coat of FK on and you'll be well protected. Also, as others have said, Iton X or similar product will help with the decon step.

 

[honda99ex]

Just to note, the Meguiar's Gold Glass Car Wash doesn't foam very well, lots of uniform tiny bubbles.

I remember NXT car wash did create lots of long lasting suds as a normal car wash but I've never used it in a foam gun.

The best soap I've used so far is the McKee's Xtreme Car Wash Shampoo which of course used to be the DP line.


Also, if you haven't already, read my article on using a foam gun. It has LOTS of pictures and a WARNING so you don't have to get a fender painted. $$$$$


How to use a foam gun by Mike Phillips

What a coincidence! I just spent the morning watching the above video and several more of your other videos.
Very informative!!!

I've only used the gun once but the quality/volume of suds wasn't an issue.
I guess my question is how long does the soap mixture last? I have the quart version whereas I believe in the videos you have the half gallon. Should the quart last me one time around say a late model Toyota 4Runner SUV? I admit I was gawking but I only got through about 3/4 of the car and before I could un-tangle the hose the concoction ran out....

 

[honda99ex]

From what I gather is you just want some info as to make washing easier/quicker and some quality protection. I recommend you get a mitt like the Nanoskin and a can of Finish Kare hi temp. The Nanoskin will last a lot longer than clay and is a much faster process. This will give you that smooth paint feeling and your towels won't feel grabbing against the paint. Then put a coat of FK on and you'll be well protected. Also, as others have said, Iton X or similar product will help with the decon step.

Yes you nailed it. I have a DD work truck that takes some abuse. I got to admire my first ONR rinseless wash for 1 night before it got killed with dust and bird poop again. I know it's a losing battle but I want to try and protect the paint as best I can. And I can use the tips for my personal vehicle which sees similar farm type environments though with less frequency.... I am going to try what you mentioned, the Finish Kare sounds like exactly like a type of product i need to try!

 

[invested_detailing]

I plan on following your method outlined except at

3. I was going to try a Nanoskin - medium then fine.... Thoughts on this vs. claying?

4. Do you think I can do something like Optimum GPS? I only have my hands, no equipment. I want something that works simply (on/off easily and not subject to heavy cure times/ideal conditions needed). Or should I go directly to a sealant? Once I get to the car to a cleaner state then I can do more maintenance more frequently to avoid heavy work each time...

A nanoskin will work just as well as the clay bar plus it has the added advantage of being able to be dropped on the ground without having to throw it away. From what I've gathered about the vehicle this step is gonna be the most time consuming up front. The larger surface area of the nanoskin should help cut some of that time. Then once all the contaminants are removed and your wax is applied regular claying should take no time at all.

Optimum GPS will work in your situation. Obviously if you want maximum effectiveness of the polishing aspect a polisher is recommended with different cutting/polishing pads. But if you're just trying to maintain the vehicle's current level of paint GPS is fine.

 

[honda99ex]

From what I gather is you just want some info as to make washing easier/quicker and some quality protection. I recommend you get a mitt like the Nanoskin and a can of Finish Kare hi temp. The Nanoskin will last a lot longer than clay and is a much faster process. This will give you that smooth paint feeling and your towels won't feel grabbing against the paint. Then put a coat of FK on and you'll be well protected. Also, as others have said, Iton X or similar product will help with the decon step.

Thank you to all who have replied and all those in the future who want to chime in! Very insightful and helpful for this noob.
I have a huge order coming from Autogeek and am stoked. Ended up choosing IronX, DG 901/902, Nanoskin Sponges, BF TPS and BF CS.
I realized from the DD part of the spectrum I based a lot of my purchase decisions ultimately on price and ease of use, given that it seems that most quality products will do the job.
fly07sti - I really liked your rec of the FK hi temp and it probably is best suited to what I asked for but I know when I'm 4-5 hours into the detail I'm really not going to feel like applying the FK. From what I've read the BF CS provides obviously less durability than the FK but is super simple to apply with minimal cure time.

Some final detail questions
1. Before I IronX should I dawn strip the car first? One car hasn't been washed in years so I was just going to knock the big pieces off. The other car I just ONRWW last week.. I know Mike in one video says he puts it straight on dirty cars but his definition of dirty is still in the clean range on my scale!
2. I know the IronX is safe for the glass but is it recommended to do the glass as well? Or maybe just certain glass like the windshield more likely to have contaminants vs side glass?
3. One of the cars has slight surface rust on the door sill. Mask with tape or Ill be ok?