Crystal Serum Light

cooper, from all the reading I've done about these coatings together it seems that most don't put anything on them after a wash.... or at least the don't put it in the description or mention it in their review....I did see a few where they topped it with C2 V3 though

Thank you Sean! I was just curious. Like to see everybody's opinions and different method combinations.


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I've used it on several cars.

  • I'd say it's about a 9.
  • One of the best coatings I've tried.
  • Good gloss.
  • It claims about 3-5 years protection.
  • Easy wipe off when you follow the directions and it's not too hot and humid.
  • Hasn't been out that long so I can't testify to it's longevity.

Seems like AG doesn't supply this product anymore? Thats a bummer...

You say its one of the best coatings? What other consumer coatings would you rate in the same or higher range?
 
Seems like AG doesn't supply this product anymore? Thats a bummer...

You say its one of the best coatings? What other consumer coatings would you rate in the same or higher range?

I think they're just out of stock on some of the stuff.... like even the bigger size panel wipe spray was out of stock but it looks like they just got some back.
 
Does anybody in this thread know how much CSL and EXO is used for each vehicle, I have a Toyota tundra which is pretty much a full sized truck. Do i need a 30ml bottle, or do i need a 50ml bottle? any answers would be greatly appreciated.
 
When I did my brothers Escalade I would guess I used about 35 of the CSL and about 25~30 of the EXO for 1 coat of CSL and 2 of the EXO. So I would guess 30 of each would be real close.

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I wound up getting the truck coated. A year later you can't tell anything was ever done, but I never topped it with anything. I was told I should have. As of right now I say it wasn't worth the $500 I spent. It looked great when it was done. But, so would a polish and a wax. I was hoping it would help it clean up easier and keep water spots at bay easier.

If I do it again I'll do it myself. It would be more worth the money then. Scares me a little though.

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I wound up getting the truck coated. A year later you can't tell anything was ever done, but I never topped it with anything. I was told I should have. As of right now I say it wasn't worth the $500 I spent. It looked great when it was done. But, so would a polish and a wax. I was hoping it would help it clean up easier and keep water spots at bay easier.

If I do it again I'll do it myself. It would be more worth the money then. Scares me a little though.

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Seeing as you posted in this thread you had Crystal Serum Light applied?

How was the vehicle cared for? What kind of environment was it exposed to?
 
Yes sir. Csl applied professionally. Looked fantastic.

Washed using the two bucket method and a grit guard. Washed with a microfiber mitt from this site and dried with guzzler waffle weaves. These days it's no different than before I had anything done. Water doesn't bead any differently, water spots, it doesn't clean up any easier, etc. My detailer told me to keep those properties it probably needed a light polish in between, but definitely some sort of coating (wax or sealant.).

But, at that point, what's the point? Just naked paint but with a coating of wax or a sealant applied frequently beads water and cleans up easier than not.

Environment? Just outside in South Carolina.

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Yes sir. Csl applied professionally. Looked fantastic.

Washed using the two bucket method and a grit guard. Washed with a microfiber mitt from this site and dried with guzzler waffle weaves. These days it's no different than before I had anything done. Water doesn't bead any differently, water spots, it doesn't clean up any easier, etc. My detailer told me to keep those properties it probably needed a light polish in between, but definitely some sort of coating (wax or sealant.).

But, at that point, what's the point? Just naked paint but with a coating of wax or a sealant applied frequently beads water and cleans up easier than not.

Environment? Just outside in South Carolina.

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I would try a decontamination wash to see if it is revives it's performance. The coating is still there but it has more than likely lost it's hydrophobic properties. There is a good chance it is contaminated and that is masking the coatings properties.
 
It doesn't seem like it did anything any better or any longer than a good coat of wax or high quality sealant. It'll take a light polish regardless of what I do to get the water spots. It was advertised to me as this would help keep them away. I can't run out and dry it every time it rains. Lol

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My detailer told me to keep those properties it probably needed a light polish in between, but definitely some sort of coating (wax or sealant.).

Sumthin' bout that don't sound right/consistent with 'normal' coating maint.

FWIW, I had somewhat the same thoughts with CSL when I used it.
 
It doesn't seem like it did anything any better or any longer than a good coat of wax or high quality sealant. It'll take a light polish regardless of what I do to get the water spots. It was advertised to me as this would help keep them away. I can't run out and dry it every time it rains. Lol

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Coating can spot and are known to spot. They are not impervious.

Polish it off and re-coat.
 
What car soap did you use?

Since coatings last longer than waxes and sealants they need to be decon washed sometimes. Or it will be build up contaminants on them in some time. When useing wax or sealant you do that when reapply them. Even long lasting sealants would benefit to decon washes at some point. An iron remover and tar remover and a stronger prewash soap like w4 citrus foam would clean up your coating. And if the water spots has etched on the coating or the paint you would have to polish and reapply. Most times and not every time a water spot remover when used on water spots that have not been able to etch yet they will come off. And even some QD can get the water spots off if done in close of time when they got there.

I would be testing a decon wash and see what it got me. Then decide how to move on.
 
Coating can spot and are known to spot. They are not impervious.

Polish it off and re-coat.
Will do, but that's no different than no coating. Lol

I'll certainly try a decon and a water spot remover. If it can't last a year without requiring a polish and recoat, I don't see the advantage over a traditional polish and wax.

When I foam it I use honeydew or Meguiar's gold class. When I go rinseless I use Pinnacle.

Hopefully it will polish up easier than if I had never been done, and hopefully the polish will be removing a small amount of coating instead of clear coat.

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Recommendations on a good water spot remover?

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The pinnacle wash has carnuaba in it. And that can be messing with the coating. Try to get carpro reset or gyeon bathe essence or gtechnic w1 g-wash. And a prewash foam like gtechnic w4 citrus foam or Gyeon Foam. And do a decon with a iron remover and if needed a water spot remover. Then I think you will revive the coating.

Gtechniq W1 G-Wash 250 ml.

GTechniq W4 Citrus Foam

GTechniq W6 Iron and General Fallout Remover 500 ml.

McKee's 37 Fast Water Spot Remover

CarPro Spotless Water Spot Remover
 
A polish would be counter productive as most said. Did your detailer give you a serialized guarantee card with your CSL Installation?
 
I wound up getting the truck coated. A year later you can't tell anything was ever done, but I never topped it with anything. I was told I should have. As of right now I say it wasn't worth the $500 I spent. It looked great when it was done. But, so would a polish and a wax. I was hoping it would help it clean up easier and keep water spots at bay easier.

If I do it again I'll do it myself. It would be more worth the money then. Scares me a little though.

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Did your detailer give you a CSL Guarantee card with installation?
 
No sir, no csl card. I'll give these suggestions a shot. Now to scrape together the money for the products to do so. Lol

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