Cut polish help Please

UrrToast

New member
Joined
May 25, 2013
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
HI all
Need some Suggestions advise....... Picture included

Vehicle
2010 Mazda B4000 4x4 BLACK

Used GG Da polisher with Lake white 5.5 flat pad
Used Poorboy's Polish with seal

Problem
Still got swirl's

I have Megs Ultimate Compound But I think its to possibly to Abrasive

Advise on a better cut ??
Menz PG2500 white pad?? or orange?
Poorboys SSR 2 or 2.5 White Pad or orange

Or ???? tell me
Feed back please
 
SSR 2.5 is just under UC in terms of cut. Either UC or SSR 2.5 with Orange should do well.
 
HI all
Need some Suggestions advise....... Picture included

Vehicle
2010 Mazda B4000 4x4 BLACK

Used GG Da polisher with Lake white 5.5 flat pad
Used Poorboy's Polish with seal

Problem
Still got swirl's

I have Megs Ultimate Compound But I think its to possibly to Abrasive

Advise on a better cut ??
Menz PG2500 white pad?? or orange?
Poorboys SSR 2 or 2.5 White Pad or orange

Or ???? tell me
Feed back please

I can't really tell from the small picture if what you were seeing was micro maring vs swirls. Remember you were using a compound that reaally needs to be followed up with a polish. Sometimes you just have to play with different techniques and products on a test spot to see what works for you.

If you feel your paint is soft try a less abrasive compound or just go to a polish. I prefer M205 because this one polish has many different sides based on the pad you use. Before you get frustrated make sure you polish your compound area hopefully it's a small test spot. Try a less aggressive pad although white pads usually finish down very well.

I'd also recommend reading this post
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/61683-working-soft-paint.html
CM8 is a resident expert on Meguiars products. PM him and I'm sure he will help you.
 
SSR 2.5 is just under UC in terms of cut. Either UC or SSR 2.5 with Orange should do well.


From the charts I have seen SSR 3 is closer to UC
UC is almost m105 level


I thought it was start with the least abrasive and go from there?
Poorboy's polish and sealant is a one step I was hoping that would be enough.

I don't have anything in between a PB Polish Sealant and Megs Ultimate Compound
So im thinking SSR2 2.5 or Megs PF2500 or ????????
 
I think you need more cut.

105/205 come to mind

And yellow, orange, white pad

Least aggressive first.

I then would go with an ultra fine polish and blue pad to Jeweling.

"Side note: I've been wanting the Brinkmann light but they are on back order"

Yellow pad, 205 then 105 last (I think)

Anybody want to post the steps he should take, from least aggressive to more aggressive? And pad switching?

To help him and other Detailer's reading this?

I know AmmoNyc "Drive" clean talked about this" and jeweling, and Mike Phillips
 
If I was you I would go with

205 > white
205 > orange

But then not sure if it's safer to

Go
205>yellow
Or
105>white?

Anybody know?
 
HI all
Need some Suggestions advise....... Picture included

Vehicle
2010 Mazda B4000 4x4 BLACK

Used GG Da polisher with Lake white 5.5 flat pad
Used Poorboy's Polish with seal

Problem
Still got swirl's

I have Megs Ultimate Compound But I think its to possibly to Abrasive

Advise on a better cut ??
Menz PG2500 white pad?? or orange?
Poorboys SSR 2 or 2.5 White Pad or orange

Or ???? tell me
Feed back please


Two Words!

Meguiars Microfiber Cutting & Finishing Discs!
 
What makes you think UC has too much cut? Did you try any test spots with it?

The idea of a test spot is not to do 6, 8, 10, 12 section passes, but to do a simple test to find what is starting to give you the results that you are looking for. I'll typically do *only* 4 section passes and compare those, one to another, till I see which one is heading in the direction I need for that particular job. From there its easy to add a few more passes to finish out the area to exactly what is called for.

I mean if you start with 205 and a white pad and after 4 passes it looks like you almost didn't do anything, then you'll need to go to a yellow pad and check. If with the yellow and 205 you're not getting it, then switch to UC, or switch to 105, or 101, or whatever you have on hand.

Take 2 (possibly 3) different pads with the same compound and do a spot. If one is starting to do it, but the other is really getting it done then you have your answer. Much easier to do the whole car only doing 4~5 section passes for each level than it is to wear yourself out doing 8~10.

By "least aggressive" it doesn't mean you have to work a section 8~10 passes, it just means not to use something that cuts away the clear with 2 passes. You have to have control of what is going on. Once you have the right compound/pad combo, then you use that same section that you just worked and work out your polish/pad combo. May be that you used 4 medium passes to get your compounding done followed by 1 light one. Then you only need 3 medium polishing passes and don't even need a light one. :dunno:

The KEY is to keep it consistent. If you need to, WRITE IT DOWN! Its easy to divide your hood into 8 sections and just test away. Compound them all (if compounding is what you're doing) and keep track of all the pads, and all the passes, and all the compounds. Once you have it for that vehicle then you'll know it. Next time you'll not have to work so long at it as you'll remember if it was hard or soft.

My GM cars for instance while all being hard, are all different. The Caddy is hard as steel. The Pontiac has been repainted so much (daughters car and has been wrecked all over through the years) has a ton of paint on it and is fairly hard all over, but not as hard as the Caddy. Then the GMC Denali has tinted clear that is still hard, but freaks me out every time I work it because it always turns the pads red! The Toyota's paint is pretty much as hard as the Caddy and doesn't really scratch if you're not off roading with it. But take the G35 and it'll scratch if you freaking LOOK at it wrong! Yet it takes a lot of buffing to get it right. (But it takes more fine polishing than hard compounding, just the way it is.)
 
Thanks for the Help

Seeing as I need more polish, UC almost empty.
Think I will get some PB ssr2 and 3 and Menz PB2500
and a few more orange pads.
 
i think the first picture show micro marring

i once had that type of defect using ccs pink cutting pads and meguiars colorX and the reasong i had that type of defect is i did too many passes of an already swirled up paint

u always need to have various types of products that have different cutting abilities

what i always use is
megs M105
megs M205
megs ultimate polish

u always need to do a test spot :

mike philips article

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html
 
I think you need more cut.

105/205 come to mind

And yellow, orange, white pad

Least aggressive first.

I then would go with an ultra fine polish and blue pad to Jeweling.

"Side note: I've been wanting the Brinkmann light but they are on back order"

Yellow pad, 205 then 105 last (I think)

I know AmmoNyc "Drive" clean talked about this" and jeweling, and Mike Phillips

Art your post doesn't make sense to me.

Compound then polish. LC yellow pad is more aggressive than white. Traditionally use compound (M101 or M105) on an yellow or orange pad followed by polish (M205)on a white pad. Yes pads and products can be mixed to vary the result.

Jeweling is done with a rotary at slow speed and is usually for show cars not daily drivers. Really not worth the time on a daily driver that sees road abuse.
 
Thank Your Rmagnus,

My comment wasn't meant to be a final say, it was more of a question.

I called Poor Boys today and asked them if I could Jewl with there SSR1 and they said yes just to use a non cutting pad

http://youtu.be/V4PQfiXJLIc

Also Rmagnus would you recommend Jeweling before applying Opti Coat? Poor Boys said yeah, just wondering

Thank You,
 
Back
Top