D151 Pad Choice

ARizzle

ARizzle

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Hey everyone, so I've been doing quite a bit of research and I have seen most people mention about partnering Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream with a green pad. I have seen some people use an orange medium cutting pad as well, and I am curious if there was a much better result w/ the orange than the green?

Thanks!
 
It depends on the kind of paint your dealing with. This why you always do a test spot to see which pad and compound work for the kind of paint your dealing with.
 
ARizzle said:
Hey everyone, so I've been doing quite a bit of research and I have seen most people mention about partnering Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream with a green pad. I have seen some people use an orange medium cutting pad as well, and I am curious if there was a much better result w/ the orange than the green?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

D151 is an AIO so you can use any pad, really. It just depends on what you expect to achieve. For instance, if the paint is in good shape and you simply want to clean with little to no correction; you wouldn't use a cutting pad. Rather a polishing pad, jeweling pad or an in-between pad ("green").
 
For swirled out beaters I will use an orange CCS. On softer paint you might see some light DA haze after the wax protection wears off but it will look 1000 times better than when it came in.

For most vehicles I end up using a white CCS. Finishes out great and still provides some cut to clean up water spots and polish away light swirls.

D151 works well with MF pads too but you will be cleaning the pads more frequently than normal.
 
:iagree:

White polishing pad is generally a good recommendation with an AIO.
 
mwoolfso said:
D151 is an AIO so you can use any pad, really. It just depends on what you expect to achieve. For instance, if the paint is in good shape and you simply want to clean with little to no correction; you wouldn't use a cutting pad. Rather a polishing pad, jeweling pad or an in-between pad ("green").
Click to expand...

:iagree: +100

WITH :whs:

Never do more than you have to. It's amazing how many different 'looks' you can get with 1 product, using different pads. Just make sure you keep the test spots the same, identical amount of pressure, identical speed and number of passes. The only variable would be the pad.
 
Thank-you to all the members and friends of mine who contributed, you have cleared up all my questions and possible questions that I may have been thinking about!
 
And speaking of D151, anyone wanna' send me a small Meg's squirt bottle to sample? ;)

In the compound/polish arena I have most everything I could possibly need, from D300, 101, 105, D83, 205, UC, #7, UP, Finishing Wax (from the MF kit that actually will work on minor swirls), ScratchX, SwirlX, and I don't remember right now what else, surely some burgundy bottles too. :rolleyes: And of course there's the Griot's 1~4 along with glaze and even the AIO 1-step sealant.

[Didn't put any sealants or waxes in the list, that'd just confuse things. Although #7 is in there as it does do a bit of 'finishing'. .] ;)

What can I say, I'm a sucker for a AIO that fits the middle of the road duties. Although..... the MF Correction System I gotta' say they did their homework on! The D300 and Finishing Wax is a 1-2 combo that's pretty schweet.

Still something about that name, "Paint Conditioning Cream" that gets me. I mean REALLY guys, it's not a "compound" it's a freaking CREAM! ;) That's just got to be something special, puts a mental picture out there like a soft hand cream and all that jazz. :laughing:

What I'm wondering is how it compares to 66. I've never used 66 but it seems to be a solid product, and right in the middle as far as light cut and being an AIO.

I just can't believe how freaking many things I still would like to try. Good LORD I already have more than a mortal man needs.... freaking detailing disease it is, disease indeed. I need more gallons, more gallons, bigger garage, more gallons. :eek:
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
:Picture:D151 works well with MF pads too but you will be cleaning the pads more frequently than normal.
Click to expand...

Is that because polish gets in the fibers of a mf pad moreso than a foam pad or do you mean that using D151 requires more cleaning than other polishes.
 
Bert31 said:
Is that because polish gets in the fibers of a mf pad moreso than a foam pad or do you mean that using D151 requires more cleaning than other polishes.
Click to expand...

It's because the MF pads cut so well *and* they heat up, *and* the structure of the pads is such that they hold anything and everything that's put into them (whether it's loading the pad with too much product, product gunking up, or product and paint buildup).

Clean them VERY often, have plenty on hand, and don't work them too long (overheat) and you'll be fine.
 
Bert31 said:
If you want to trade, I can send you a small bottle of D151 if you return the bottle with something I want to try.
Click to expand...

I believe it was cardaddy who was looking to try some out. I have plenty at home. :xyxthumbs:

cardaddy said:
It's because the MF pads cut so well *and* they heat up, *and* the structure of the pads is such that they hold anything and everything that's put into them (whether it's loading the pad with too much product, product gunking up, or product and paint buildup).

Clean them VERY often, have plenty on hand, and don't work them too long (overheat) and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

:iagree: with cardaddy. For optimal correction results with D151 and MF you will want to clean the pad after every section. Foam pads you can get away with cleaning/changing pads after every panel (maybe not on the hood/roof) and still get great results.
 
And for those that are interested... RIGHT NOW go to the live broadcast. Meguiar's reps are showing the MF system. :D
 
I just detailed a dakota that was recently repainted, single stage.

I used the meg's PRC and an orange foam pad. It had tons of oxidation, hazing, and light scratches. The pad had tons of red paint on it, but turned out AMAZING.
 
Just to chime in...

All the feedback give so far is spot on but I'd like to add one more consideration...

If you're goal is to buff out a car in one-step, that is after washing, drying, claying (if needed), and then doing the one-step procedure to the car and calling it done, then you want to use the least aggressive pad in order to leave the nicest finish.

In most cases, you want to use a foam polishing pad.


Make sense?

You can get more cleaning power using a cutting pad but you risk not leaving a haze or swirl free finish.

You can get a better looking finish by applying with a finishing or waxing pad but this type of pad might not be aggressive enough to take advantage of the cleaner/wax and actually do a good job of restoring the paint.


A polishing pad is the best option if it will remove the defects to your expectations while still finishing out to customer pleasing results.


I think I also explain that in this write-up...

How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits


Note the pad I used for this one-step project...


:)
 
flat-top said:
I just detailed a dakota that was recently repainted, single stage.

I used the meg's PRC and an orange foam pad. It had tons of oxidation, hazing, and light scratches. The pad had tons of red paint on it, but turned out AMAZING.
Click to expand...


You can get away using a much more aggressive pad with a cleaner/wax when working on a single stage paint but not so with a clear coat paint because clear coat paints tend to be very scratch-sensitive.


If working on a white or light colored clearcoated finish and using a foam cutting pad with a one-step cleaner/wax you can get away with this because it can be hard to see the DA Haze or micro-marring left behind.

Use the same approach on a black or dark clearcoated car and if you're leaving haze you'll see it.

Like someone else posted... always do a test spot anytime you're working on a car that's new to you. Dial in a pad, product and process that works in one small area before buffing out the entire car.


How To Do a Test Spot
(and why it's so important)



:)
 
Is there a possibility that d151 can leave holograms behind and cover these marks until the protective layer vanishes by time or cleaned by a solvent? I've seen some videos people using wool plus D151 and getting good correction plus a good shine. I guess wool inflicts its own scratches anyway and you'd think it that way and use a finishing pad. But using a cutting pad, I guess I could easily be mistaken if the polish is filling.
 
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