d300 vs m105

JUST USE FG400.... extremely long working time, not dusting and finishes down amazingly well.
 
Kevin Cullen said:
When using M105 less is more. 4 pea sized drops to prime the pad and 3 pea sized drops after that. Add in a spritz of quick detailer and just about no dusting.

As Hoytman posted if you are removing oxidation you will get dusting. A person can't expect to remove scale off paint and have the pad retain all of it can they? A vaccum of the shop should be in order before movin on to the next step of the process if you get dusting.
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On paint in the condition of the car in richy's video those pea sized drops are fine, BUT...

...if you're working with something like in the photo I posted those pea sized drops will get you about a 1/2second of working time. So, what was my solution? Add more and more product until you get enough working time to at least get a chance to make some vertical and horizontal passes (Thanks TuscaroraDave), and in my case I had to clean the wool pad by spurring it after each section pass...it's a must do thing, cleaning the pad. Peas sized drops on something like that would only give you enough time to move from left to right once and the oxidation drinks up the liquid in the product. Another thing TdDave taught me; sometimes what is declared as a normal size working area, say 12x12 or 16x16 or 20x20, those areas won't be small enough on a project like mine. I was forced to work an area no larger than my W4000 wool pad, and still had to add a lot of product to get any working time and enough lubrication to allow the product to do it's job.

Now, keep in mind that on this project since the roof, hood, and vehicle sides were different, several techniques had to be used.

Someone mentioned finding the perfect working time in order to wipe M105 off easily...
Well, I've found that if the paint surface is clean (read as no oxidation to drink up product) and only with swirls to remove, that M105 doesn't need to be worked until it's gone. In fact, I've found the opposite. Add enough product to get 3-4 section passes, stop before it gets dry, and it wipes right off. Mike Phillips demonstrated this to us in Evansville, Indiana on a nice black camaro. M105 wiped right off.

In the case of my photo, I didn't worry about wiping it all off with the first two series of passes, nor did I on the last. In fact the last series of section passes worked until it dissappeared with only a smidgeon to wipe off and by that time most of what needed wiped off was dust from oxidized and dead clear paint coming off. Note: By the last section passes you could feel the paint come totally clean and free of oxidation because you could feel the load on the rotary lighten up...ligthened up a lot too. You could even hear it. So, on paint that bad, what I'm saying is there are more ways the just looking at the paint to know when it's cleaned up.

Now, let's move on down to richy's quote...


richy said:
I found the video from that hack. Damp pad + clean pad = success with 105.
Richy's M105 video (no dusting technique) - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
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This technique worked flawless for me on the door and fenders, dampening the pad that is, and using product fairly sparingly...and it dissappears with this techniqe as well...at least that I have found.

The car in richy's video was not even close to what I was working on, so the reality is that a person shouldn't expect to use the same techniqe (probably with any product, thus why a test spot is important) on different degrees of paint flaws (like shown in Mike Phillips' book). You have to remain flexible with how the each product reacts to the job at hand. It pays to pay attention to several people's technique so you have the know-how to be able to mix things up and adjust. The only two things I know that are certain is death and taxes...meaning the only hard and fast rule is; there's no hard and fast rules to anything. Lots of ways to tackle a problem. So be flexible, and learn all you can.

Now, if I should need to remove any swirls from my Trailblazer in the future richy's technique will work flawlessly (as it did on the doors for me), but for the paint on the roof in the photo above that technique didn't work. That's not a knock on richy, that's just a reality. I had to modify my thinking, and my techniqe..and great forum members helped make that possible.


Had I the opportunity to do this suv rood over again I would have tried a test spot with 3M Super Duty, aka rocks in a bottle, because it has far more lubrication and cut than M105, and both was needed for such oxidation removal.

Point is;
M105 can be a pain to work with, or it can be nice to work with. However, regardless of how a person feels about working with it, M105 does it's job quickly.

That said, my buddy 2old2change has shared some of his thoughts with me on the new M100 (better working time than M105) and I can't wait to try it. He doesn't like M105 that much, and in a big way, I have to agree with him. Still, M105 is a great product for certain situations and in those situation richy's technique works very well, imo. (Let's put my opinion into perspective to be fair...I've only used about a quart and a half of M105 compared to guys like richy and Mike Phillips...so take my opinions for what they're worth. It's your call...I'm just sharing my experience with M105. This doesn't I love or hate Meguiar's products...I'm just sharing my use of one specific product, regardless of brand.)
 
I used to have a huge problem with m105 before and hated the ever living day lights out of it. But when it's all you've got you have to try and bring out it's full potential. M105 is very finicky to work with and takes time to get right. I was applying too much pressure as well as too much product which was causing the insane amounts of dust people don't like. I cleaned up my technique with the help of everyone around here and believe it or not I hardly get any dust. I think the dusting is just something that comes with compounding, but the amount of it is from user error and technique. Try different methods and see which one works for you. M105 is great and has taken on every project I've put it too.
 
Any of you guys use the 3M compounds? Ive been using them for about 7 years now, and i just would like a comparison to the m105.
It seems alot alike, there will be plenty of dusting when to much is used, but the cut is fantastic.

I do have an old random bottle of meguiars ultimate compound.. i wet sanded one of the kids wii games with 2000 grit and the compound cleared it up good enough to play again. haha.
 
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