DA polisher vs hand. How much time came i save?

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Notageek

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I will be doing some paint correction on a black Mazda 3 (jet black mica) soon and originally I planned on doing the entire car by hand since it doesn't need too much work. It just has some minor swirls, a few chips on the hood, and a few bubbled up spots from bird drippings that have sat too long as well as door handle scratches on the drivers side.

Realistically, how much time can I save on correcting the entire car if I use a DA polisher as opposed to doing it by hand? I'm talking just for the correction and not the washing, nanoskin, and sealing. I am willing to drop $150 max on a polisher if the time difference is significant.

For $150 which DA polisher would you recommend? I don't plan on doing multiple cars, only mine. This will be my first time correcting paint.
 
Notageek said:
I will be doing some paint correction on a black Mazda 3 (jet black mica) soon and originally I planned on doing the entire car by hand since it doesn't need too much work. It just has some minor swirls, a few chips on the hood, and a few bubbled up spots from bird drippings that have sat too long as well as door handle scratches on the drivers side.

Realistically, how much time can I save on correcting the entire car if I use a DA polisher as opposed to doing it by hand? I'm talking just for the correction and not the washing, nanoskin, and sealing. I am willing to drop $150 max on a polisher if the time difference is significant.

For $150 which DA polisher would you recommend? I don't plan on doing multiple cars, only mine. This will be my first time correcting paint.
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An incredible amount.

And, there is no way (literally) that you can get the outcome by hand than you can with a machine.

150 dollars? Check out the kits offered here on the AutoGeek store offered by Griot's garage (Their GG6 polisher) or the Porter Cable 7424XP.

Great kits for the budget-minded.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!
 
PaulMys said:
An incredible amount.

And, there is no way (literally) that you can get the outcome by hand than you can with a machine.

150 dollars? Check out the kits offered here on the AutoGeek store offered by Griot's garage (Their GG6 polisher) or the Porter Cable 7424XP.

Great kits for the budget-minded.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!
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Thanks for that, I just looked at some and they look like good deals. How many pads would you suggest for an entire car?

Edit: which kit would you recommend? I don't need any wax since I plan on using cquartz sealant. I'm also a bit confused when it comes to the pads themselves, I didn't know they cut also. How do you match up the current polish to the correct pad?
 
Notageek said:
Thanks for that, I just looked at some and they look like good deals. How many pads would you suggest for an entire car?

Edit: which kit would you recommend? I don't need any wax since I plan on using cquartz sealant. I'm also a bit confused when it comes to the pads themselves, I didn't know they cut also. How do you match up the current polish to the correct pad?
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At least 6 pads to start.

Check Griot's garage. They have the BOSS system. Color matched pads to product. Takes all the guess work out of it.
 
I'd stay away from prepackaged kits and put your own together. Kits usually have things you will never use. As an example the GG6 only comes with the 6" backing plate. You really don't even want to use it. Get a 5" backing plate and 5.5" Thin pads--you'll save money and the polisher will be more effective with 5" thin pads.
 
ski2 said:
I'd stay away from prepackaged kits and put your own together. Kits usually have things you will never use.

As an example the GG6 only comes with the 6" backing plate. You really don't even want to use it.

Get a 5" backing plate and 5.5" Thin pads--you'll save money and the polisher will be more effective with 5" thin pads.
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I 100% agree. In fact, I wrote an article to this point...

Here's what you need to get into machine polishing - Recommendations for a beginner by Mike Phillips



To the original threads starter, there is a TON of information in the above thread including the difference between microfiber pads and foam pads.

Also a video that will how you how to do a Test Spot and then how to buff out a car.



:)
 
My very first paying customer was done by hand when I first started out. 3 days spent in my garage on a black Mercedes S class and he and I were both thrilled with how it looked.

I opened my eyes and explored machine polishing because the amount of effort on that first customer was excruciating not to mention how tired my hands and arms were after.

Shortly later I got my first DA, a PC 7336, and some pads. Next customer was done in 1 day and the results were incredibaly better. If I never had another paying customer after that first one I would have gotten a PC just to do my own cars.
 
How do you pair foam pads with compounds and polishes and how do you know when they are needed? For example how deep do swirls need to be in order to use a compound?
 
Notageek said:
How do you pair foam pads with compounds and polishes and how do you know when they are needed? For example how deep do swirls need to be in order to use a compound?
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This is where your test spot comes in.

Sorry to say, there is no definite answer to this question. Too many variables. Paint softness/hardness, tools used, pads used, product/pad combos.

As for pairing, I still stand my Griot's Garage recommendation. Match the product to the pad, and you have a good start. Will you find that their Fast Correcting pad works best for you with another product in the line? Possibly.

It's all testing/experimenting to find what works for you, personally.
 
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