Hello everyone. I'm new to this site (this is my first posting on any forum), so please bear with me. I have a question regarding rotary polishers. For xmas my wife got me a flex rotary by mistake- I had asked for the da polisher. I can return the rotary and get the da, but I'm wondering just how evil the rotarys can be. I have a porter cable da, and want something more aggressive, but have heard lots of horror stories about paint burning with a rotary. I'm no expert, but I would consider myself to be at least reasonably careful, can someone like me expect decent results with a rotary? Is it even worth the risk? The last thing I want is to ruin my paint job, but I have holograms on a black MB and I really want to eliminate them. Any wisdom will be appreciated.
Da vs. rotary
- Thread starter bbtop
- Start date
I have been a DA person for the past 5 years and just got my 1st rotary. It depends on what you do. Do you just need to wax or do you need to "correct" the paint? If you are just maintaining a recently new car, a DA will work fine. your answer might be to get a flex 3401 which is kinda like a DA and a Rotary..do a search here and read about it...
BobbyG
New member
- Dec 29, 2009
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:welcome: To Autogeek Online!
While rotary polishers are more aggressive than their dual action counterpart they are not some evil machine lurking in the shadows just waiting for the opportunity to tear the paint off a panel.
A rotary polisher can certainly do more damage if used improperly but this tool was on the scene for many years and used in every shop long before the dual action polisher was even thought of.
A rotary polisher is a tool and noting more. Every tool has a learning curve and having a rotary polisher should be a requirement in any detailer's arsenal. If you're careful and maintain a watchful eye you'll be pleasantly surprised how quickly and efficiently they can produce gorgeous results.
With experience you can finish a car using only a rotary polisher.
Jeweling is using a finer polishing pad/finer polish for more glow and sharpness from the paint. Jeweling is considered to be the ultimate in surface finish and is only accomplished with a rotary machine using a very soft foam pad.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37767-jewelling-definition.html
Now, having said all that, many find it easier to finish up with a dual action machine to guarantee a hologram free finish.
In the end the choice is yours to make, I just wanted to give you some food for thought...
While rotary polishers are more aggressive than their dual action counterpart they are not some evil machine lurking in the shadows just waiting for the opportunity to tear the paint off a panel.
A rotary polisher can certainly do more damage if used improperly but this tool was on the scene for many years and used in every shop long before the dual action polisher was even thought of.
A rotary polisher is a tool and noting more. Every tool has a learning curve and having a rotary polisher should be a requirement in any detailer's arsenal. If you're careful and maintain a watchful eye you'll be pleasantly surprised how quickly and efficiently they can produce gorgeous results.
With experience you can finish a car using only a rotary polisher.
Jeweling is using a finer polishing pad/finer polish for more glow and sharpness from the paint. Jeweling is considered to be the ultimate in surface finish and is only accomplished with a rotary machine using a very soft foam pad.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37767-jewelling-definition.html
Now, having said all that, many find it easier to finish up with a dual action machine to guarantee a hologram free finish.
In the end the choice is yours to make, I just wanted to give you some food for thought...
Rsurfer
Well-known member
- Jan 26, 2007
- 14,163
- 26
The holograms was probably caused by a rotary. If you are a hobbyist then a Flex DA would be best. Because of the force rotation it's the most powerful of the DA's.
BobbyG
New member
- Dec 29, 2009
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Hey Glen,
I don't Jewel all that often but since Jeweling is the fine of the finest I use Menzerna PO85RD and a soft pad like Red or Gold. Any product that's very fine or capable of removing super fine grit is a candidate.
Jeweling is a very fine leveling of a finish and enhancing the gloss to the next level.
I use a speed between 600 and about 800 rpm.
alko
New member
- May 23, 2011
- 4,342
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BobbyG has definitely provided some really good info. I just picked up a Flex PE-14 and got nervous reading a thread on burning paint. I think with doing the proper homework, asking questions, and proper technique and products you'll be fine. I'm going to be calling the body shop I've been to a few times to see if they have any junk panels they can give me for free or for the low. If not I think my pops will let me practice on his beat up Durango.
IMO I think you should keep the Flex. Besides... You're now in the secret flex society club and the only way out is to polish every single forum members car.
IMO I think you should keep the Flex. Besides... You're now in the secret flex society club and the only way out is to polish every single forum members car.
Rsurfer
Well-known member
- Jan 26, 2007
- 14,163
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Have you tried higher rpm's (1800)?
BobbyG
New member
- Dec 29, 2009
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No I haven't Ron, I generally stay under 1000 rpm. Do you Jewel at 1800rpm?
Rsurfer
Well-known member
- Jan 26, 2007
- 14,163
- 26
Yes, with Ultrafina and a blue 3M pad.
BobbyG
New member
- Dec 29, 2009
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Definitely something to take a look at....thanks Ron!
Rsurfer
Well-known member
- Jan 26, 2007
- 14,163
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Only reason I tried the higher speed..3M recommendation.